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post #1 of 11 Old 10-18-17, 19:58 Thread Starter
Magnum Maximum
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Front brake lever replacement

So I tried searching the forum to see if this was ever discussed and couldn't find anything. I'm trying to replace the factory levers on my 2017 Daytona 675R. The plunger for the factory front brake is integrated into the lever and cannot be removed (AFAIK). The levers that I bought (MZS) did not come with a plunger, and it looks like it was designed to use the factory plunger. Do any experienced folks here have any suggestions on what I could do, aside from returning the levers and buying a different brand?
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post #2 of 11 Old 10-18-17, 23:53
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Assuming the same front master is used on newer Daytona R's as it was on the older (pre '13) R's, then the plunger is removable. Unfortunately I can't remember off hand how and it's too late to check (I'm in bed). I'll check tomorrow. The second thing to note, is that there is a difference in levers between the R's and non-R's, and they are NOT interchangeable. Are you sure you got the correct lever?

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post #3 of 11 Old 10-19-17, 01:26 Thread Starter
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Here's the front brake lever that I bought. The plunger is supposed to fit in there. However, I don't feel to comfortable in just having it sit there and trust that it won't pop out. There's nothing covering that area when it's installed. I'm thinking of either returning it or make my own plunger that'll sit in there secured (which means drilling a hole in the base of that indent to have a nut securing it).
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-26-17, 07:08 Thread Starter
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Ok, so I'm going with the route in making my own plunger. I'll be using a 3/8" shaft collar with a 1/4" spacer inserted in it. The shaft collar will have a set screw sticking out of it to make contact with the boot for the master cylinder. To keep the shaft collar and spacer secured in the lever, I'll be running a 10mm bolt that's 3/4" long through the spacer. This means I'll have to drill through the indentation on the lever where the plunger goes through. I'll secure the other end of the bolt with a washer and a 10mm nut. If this is a bad idea, please let me know now. If this is a great idea, I'll see if I can post pics of the process of building this part.
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-26-17, 13:06
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I just went to check, and your levers are virtually identical to mine and there is no way that the plunger will slide out of the lever. Drop the plunger into the lever, bolt the lever to the MC and try. It only takes 2 minutes to remove and replace the lever. I've had mine there for years and never once had a problem. You're creating more work for yourself than necessary.

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post #6 of 11 Old 10-26-17, 20:44 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renboy View Post
I just went to check, and your levers are virtually identical to mine and there is no way that the plunger will slide out of the lever. Drop the plunger into the lever, bolt the lever to the MC and try. It only takes 2 minutes to remove and replace the lever. I've had mine there for years and never once had a problem. You're creating more work for yourself than necessary.
The problem is that the factory plunger cannot be removed from the stock levers, unless I destroy the stock levers to get it out (something that I do not want to do). The only other option is finding a place that has spare plungers laying around somewhere.
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-26-17, 21:32
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I upgraded to Gilles Tooling levers and had the same issue. It looks like the plunger will unscrew from the Barrell, because it has a hex on it. So I put a deep socket on it, and cranked it loose. The threads immediately galled. The Gilles lever has a small dimple in it's barrel, so I slid the plunger under the boot like it's supposed to be, and set the Barrel dimple. The preload spring on the lever always keeps a small amount of pressure on it.

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post #8 of 11 Old 10-27-17, 02:07 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MachOne View Post
I upgraded to Gilles Tooling levers and had the same issue. It looks like the plunger will unscrew from the Barrell, because it has a hex on it. So I put a deep socket on it, and cranked it loose. The threads immediately galled. The Gilles lever has a small dimple in it's barrel, so I slid the plunger under the boot like it's supposed to be, and set the Barrel dimple. The preload spring on the lever always keeps a small amount of pressure on it.

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I need the barrel too. The lever I bought didn't come with a barrel. That's the part that I'm having difficulty removing. I can't find anything that shows how to removed it.

Last edited by Magnum Maximum; 10-27-17 at 02:15.
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-27-17, 03:18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Maximum View Post
The problem is that the factory plunger cannot be removed from the stock levers, unless I destroy the stock levers to get it out (something that I do not want to do). The only other option is finding a place that has spare plungers laying around somewhere.


Been there done that.
It takes some wiggling but t will come out for sure. I remember it took me at least 45 min but it does come out.
Better than make-shifting it.
And no it will not come out of the aftermarket lever.


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post #10 of 11 Old 10-27-17, 20:34 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramnakhle View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Maximum View Post
The problem is that the factory plunger cannot be removed from the stock levers, unless I destroy the stock levers to get it out (something that I do not want to do). The only other option is finding a place that has spare plungers laying around somewhere.


Been there done that.
It takes some wiggling but t will come out for sure. I remember it took me at least 45 min but it does come out.
Better than make-shifting it.
And no it will not come out of the aftermarket lever.


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Thanks for the advice. I was able to get it out. I was using the wrong tool. Had to find some plyers and was able to wiggle it out.
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