Suspension/ Tire wear help needed - Page 3 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #21 of 35 Old 09-10-18, 09:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaLaMae View Post
My answers are in the quotes above. Itís a little confusing sorry. I didnít think it would look like that.

Iím posting pictures of the spacers axel and linkage.
The axel in relationship to swing arm is 22-1/4Ē even on each side

I also emailed UK Race Support last night before bed. They emailed back 3AM their time. WTF are they doing at that time. But their support seems on the ball. As long as they are not Honking lines at that Hr. Cocaine is a hell of a drug!



Im still not clear on how much spacer you have installed in the bike currently. The stock shock is around 295mm, with the 8mm of spacer that puts the installed shock height at 303mm. If you installed the rear link and did not remove any spacer you are sitting at ~307mm. Im aware there are no adjustments, you need to manage the spacers to get the correct height. Right now the bike is sitting way forward with more weight on the front then needed, which would explain the geometry tear at the rear.



Your rear axle is too far forward, it needs to be all the way back. Like this:



UK race support is in the UK. I assume you are in eastern time because 3am is 8am for the UK.


If you have the full 8mm spacer installed see if you can order a 4 or 5mm spacer and use that, as well as moving the rear axle towards the rear. How many trackdays/miles are on that rear shock and when was the last time you had it serviced?
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post #22 of 35 Old 09-10-18, 12:14 Thread Starter
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Ok now we're getting somewhere. This makes a lot of sense. I was thinking the same and UKRS just got back to me and they were also leading on to this as a possible potential problem.
So now What can I do. Im running-1 front and stock rear with a 525 setup that's OEM except the front sprocket. Should I try to break the chain and add a link?
I'm planning on going to a 520 setup but that's a winter budget thing.

What should the wheel base be axel to axel?
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post #23 of 35 Old 09-10-18, 13:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaLaMae View Post
Ok now we're getting somewhere. This makes a lot of sense. I was thinking the same and UKRS just got back to me and they were also leading on to this as a possible potential problem.
So now What can I do. Im running-1 front and stock rear with a 525 setup that's OEM except the front sprocket. Should I try to break the chain and add a link?
I'm planning on going to a 520 setup but that's a winter budget thing.

What should the wheel base be axel to axel?

I personally wouldnt add a link, I would just go for the 520 conversion and cut the chain at the correct length. What you can try is flushing the forks with the trees, this will level the bike out a bit and help put some weight into the rear tire, but it still wont be enough to completely correct the geometry completely. A 520 conversion from TJ is pretty reasonable, give him a shout and ask for a quote.



Two things you need are pushing that rear tire back further and getting the ride height closer to spec. If you can get a 4 or 5mm spacer that will do you wonders alone, but getting the rear tire further back will help a ton as well.


Edit: Unless you have a laser rig for measuring geometry giving you a measurement wont help.
Edit2: make sure you have enough chain slack as well, if you dont the chain will lock up the suspension travel
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post #24 of 35 Old 09-24-18, 09:50 Thread Starter
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Okay update time. I just got back from NYST PIG ROAST. I’m spent. Road Saturday and Sunday.

So I got a new chain and ring setup. 520 -1 +1 (15,48) I should have gone 49 but whatever.

I lowered my rear by two and a half mm. I(removed the washer as my side bight spacer). I lengthen my wheel length. Pulled the wheel back in the swing arm. I have 117 links I think. I started playing with clickers. Started with.
10 out compression

12 out rebound.

It was better but rebound was slow.
I kept taking some out by one every session.
At one point I was 18 out and still had leading edge issues.

BUT my tearing was almost gone.
Still had some but was much better than the last two times out.

This was too much out . So I put 3 in
And two out of comp.

This was a good setup for me.

I have to take some pictures and I will post them when I have time.

My next job is triples and a Computrack check.
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post #25 of 35 Old 09-24-18, 11:28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaLaMae View Post
Okay update time. I just got back from NYST PIG ROAST. I’m spent. Road Saturday and Sunday.

So I got a new chain and ring setup. 520 -1 +1 (15,48) I should have gone 49 but whatever.

I lowered my rear by two and a half mm. I(removed the washer as my side bight spacer). I lengthen my wheel length. Pulled the wheel back in the swing arm. I have 117 links I think. I started playing with clickers. Started with.
10 out compression

12 out rebound.

It was better but rebound was slow.
I kept taking some out by one every session.
At one point I was 18 out and still had leading edge issues.

BUT my tearing was almost gone.
Still had some but was much better than the last two times out.

This was too much out . So I put 3 in
And two out of comp.

This was a good setup for me.

I have to take some pictures and I will post them when I have time.

My next job is triples and a Computrack check.
Stay away from computrack. Guy is all over the place and has made some really bad mistakes putting peoples equipment back together.

Post some photos of the tire wear and the sipes, also of the rear swing arm location. 2.5mm and the swing arm being pushed back is getting way closer to being correct but you still need to drop a few more mm, I would imagine thats why the tear is just hanging around a bit.

How many miles or hours are on the rear shock since it was last serviced? Depending on how fast you are the rear shock can start going off within 2-4 days of riding. You should be servicing the rear at least once per year if you are at the track several weekends a year.

How did it turn?..

- When you turned in was it a single input and then on rails to apex? Did it feel like it wanted to push wide? Did it feel like it wanted to fall into the corner?

- When you opened the throttle did the bike go where you wanted? Did it want to run wide? Did it feel like you needed to add steering input to get the bike to run wide?


EDIT: Triples are not required unless you are chasing that last 1 second of time at a track during a race, get your bike working properly before changing more stuff otherwise you will be chasing setup forever. Secondly if you swap triples you will no longer be eligible for stock class racing if you plan on doing that.

Last edited by tottenham12712; 09-24-18 at 11:34.
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post #26 of 35 Old 09-24-18, 11:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaLaMae View Post
My answers are in the quotes above. Itís a little confusing sorry. I didnít think it would look like that.

Iím posting pictures of the spacers axel and linkage.
The axel in relationship to swing arm is 22-1/4Ē even on each side

I also emailed UK Race Support last night before bed. They emailed back 3AM their time. WTF are they doing at that time. But their support seems on the ball. As long as they are not Honking lines at that Hr. Cocaine is a hell of a drug!
We don't sleep
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post #27 of 35 Old 09-27-18, 16:18 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tottenham12712 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaLaMae View Post
Okay update time. I just got back from NYST PIG ROAST. I’m spent. Road Saturday and Sunday.

So I got a new chain and ring setup. 520 -1 +1 (15,48) I should have gone 49 but whatever.

I lowered my rear by two and a half mm. I(removed the washer as my side bight spacer). I lengthen my wheel length. Pulled the wheel back in the swing arm. I have 117 links I think. I started playing with clickers. Started with.
10 out compression

12 out rebound.

It was better but rebound was slow.
I kept taking some out by one every session.
At one point I was 18 out and still had leading edge issues.

BUT my tearing was almost gone.
Still had some but was much better than the last two times out.

This was too much out . So I put 3 in
And two out of comp.

This was a good setup for me.

I have to take some pictures and I will post them when I have time.

My next job is triples and a Computrack check.
Stay away from computrack. Guy is all over the place and has made some really bad mistakes putting peoples equipment back together.

Post some photos of the tire wear and the sipes, also of the rear swing arm location. 2.5mm and the swing arm being pushed back is getting way closer to being correct but you still need to drop a few more mm, I would imagine thats why the tear is just hanging around a bit.

How many miles or hours are on the rear shock since it was last serviced? Depending on how fast you are the rear shock can start going off within 2-4 days of riding. You should be servicing the rear at least once per year if you are at the track several weekends a year.

How did it turn?..

- When you turned in was it a single input and then on rails to apex? Did it feel like it wanted to push wide? Did it feel like it wanted to fall into the corner?

- When you opened the throttle did the bike go where you wanted? Did it want to run wide? Did it feel like you needed to add steering input to get the bike to run wide?


EDIT: Triples are not required unless you are chasing that last 1 second of time at a track during a race, get your bike working properly before changing more stuff otherwise you will be chasing setup forever. Secondly if you swap triples you will no longer be eligible for stock class racing if you plan on doing that.
So the GMD stuff I’m well aware of. I’m looking for it to be measured to see how the #’s look.
I completely removed the ride height spacers. So the shock height has as low as it can be.
The forks are 3mm from flush.
The shock was serviced in April. It has about 500 track miles on it about 7 track days.
Same for the forks.
Turn in is slower especially when I’m not at my typical pace .
I’m an ex LRRS Expert and was a top rider when I did race a lifetime ago. I’m slower now but can be fast usually top 5 fast guys on any given track day . I’m saying this only as a pace baseline.
I was having confidence issues in the front end mid corner on bumpy sections where the tarmac was torn from cars.
Aside from the sipes slightly wearing high on the leading edge my tires were night and day compared to the last two times out.
Your help was very informative and I really appreciate the help.

I’m going do a refresh on the shock and forks hopefully before winter.
I’m hoping that will help the tire wear.
The triple tree is not really needed but more for raising the rear up and more front end feel mid corner.
I tuck the front when I get the pace up to a “race pace” . I have yet to fall because I save it with my knee.
The faster I go the better the handles but the front limits my pace. I fall into a trap when I’m on . She only handles well when I push her and the front makes me nervous.

The whole package was a tad slower turning in and out but I could overcome that with riding her on a slightly earlier turn in line with more run out space.
I will say over the hill it was much more stable. No hint of wheeling or nervous front lifting. That’s the biggest positive about this setup.
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post #28 of 35 Old 09-27-18, 16:19 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK_Race_Support View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaLaMae View Post
My answers are in the quotes above. It’s a little confusing sorry. I didn’t think it would look like that.

I’m posting pictures of the spacers axel and linkage.
The axel in relationship to swing arm is 22-1/4” even on each side

I also emailed UK Race Support last night before bed. They emailed back 3AM their time. WTF are they doing at that time. But their support seems on the ball. As long as they are not Honking lines at that Hr. Cocaine is a hell of a drug!
We don't sleep [IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.triumph675.net/forum/images/smilies/organizedsmilies/1/laugh.gif[/IMG]
Your costumers support was killer thanks for your info and help.
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post #29 of 35 Old 10-03-18, 19:22 Thread Starter
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Just a few pictures of my rear tire

This is with 12 out from full clockwise +

17 out full clockwise +
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post #30 of 35 Old 10-03-18, 19:40 Thread Starter
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Forgot my rear axle and front tire picture
The front has four track days on it

The chain also needs to be tightened up seeing how that was the virgin voyage and two track days of pure trashing.

I watched videos of my riding on Sunday my second day there. What a difference in confidence over wheelie hill there.
Before she would wheelie over and then again soon after I would tach out and switch to fourth.

After totally stable no twitchiness and less to worry about. Pure love.

I need ride height to carve a better turn in and out.

I’m saying this only to bring her to perfection.

What you were saying about the K-Tech front and rear is making me drool.
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