Installing Manual Idle Adjuster 2013 Street Triple - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-02-17, 20:03 Thread Starter
apacifico3
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Installing Manual Idle Adjuster 2013 Street Triple

So my manual idle adjuster should be coming in this week and I'm wondering about the install process. I don't have a Daytona with race harness/ECU so I'm going to remove the Idle Stepper Motor from the throttle body assembly but leave it connected to the harness so I don't throw a code. I don't have the access to TuneECU being my bike is a 2013 with restricted ECU.

I am more concerned with adjusting the TPS and idle and setting up throttle body synch without the use of the ISM. How should I go about doing this? First adjust TPS to be in range of .60v+/- .02 then adjust synch then set idle? Which order should I go in? Just wondering if there is an art to this, and asking advice to anyone that has set up their bike with the manual adjuster.
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-03-17, 15:59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apacifico3 View Post
So my manual idle adjuster should be coming in this week and I'm wondering about the install process. I don't have a Daytona with race harness/ECU so I'm going to remove the Idle Stepper Motor from the throttle body assembly but leave it connected to the harness so I don't throw a code. I don't have the access to TuneECU being my bike is a 2013 with restricted ECU.

I am more concerned with adjusting the TPS and idle and setting up throttle body synch without the use of the ISM. How should I go about doing this? First adjust TPS to be in range of .60v+/- .02 then adjust synch then set idle? Which order should I go in? Just wondering if there is an art to this, and asking advice to anyone that has set up their bike with the manual adjuster.

Its going to throw a code no matter what you do. The ECU is going to ask the stepper to move X amount and expect N amount of revs, when the stepper tries to actuate and doesnt move anything via the TPS and no resulting rpm change the ECU is going to think the stepper is faulty. In order to run a manual adjuster without a code you need the race ECU and harness, I would also imagine running one at all will cause the bike to behave oddly at just off the throttle stops(without the race kit).
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-03-17, 16:20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apacifico3 View Post
So my manual idle adjuster should be coming in this week and I'm wondering about the install process. I don't have a Daytona with race harness/ECU so I'm going to remove the Idle Stepper Motor from the throttle body assembly but leave it connected to the harness so I don't throw a code. I don't have the access to TuneECU being my bike is a 2013 with restricted ECU.
What exactly are you looking to gain out of this? Now you are going to have a bunch of junk flopping around under there. Your going to be throwing codes too, as already mentioned...

"The better you look, the more you see."
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-03-17, 21:45 Thread Starter
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I'm having issues with the bike surging again and it looks to be the stepper unit. Yes the unit is clean and not gunked up, it is set correctly along with TPS, and moves smoothly with the "fax machine" noise. Either that or the TPS is going out. Holding steady throttle it starts to waver a bit and then on decel and releasing the throttle slowly, there is a MASSIVE flat spot (at pretty much all RPMs) even when the throttle is still open.

The bike has been fully dyno tuned at a reputable shop and no engine/fuel mods since tuning.

You sure it's going to throw a code? Have you personally tried it?
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-04-17, 10:10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apacifico3 View Post
I'm having issues with the bike surging again and it looks to be the stepper unit. Yes the unit is clean and not gunked up, it is set correctly along with TPS, and moves smoothly with the "fax machine" noise. Either that or the TPS is going out. Holding steady throttle it starts to waver a bit and then on decel and releasing the throttle slowly, there is a MASSIVE flat spot (at pretty much all RPMs) even when the throttle is still open.

The bike has been fully dyno tuned at a reputable shop and no engine/fuel mods since tuning.

You sure it's going to throw a code? Have you personally tried it?
I have not personally tried it on this bike but knowing what I know about ECU systems and control loops there is no way it wouldnt throw a code with it removed but still connected. The ECU is constantly adding input and expecting a range of results back, its a feedback loop.

You are welcome to try it, its not like the bike is going to explode or anything. Im just very confident its going to throw a code instantaneously.

Now onto your actual issue. Do you have dealertool or even tuneecu to monitor the TPS? If you hold the throttle and the TPS fluctuates your TPS is shot, if you slowly rotate it and the numbers jump around its shot. I believe there is a testing procedure for the TPS in the service manual, if you dont have one I can get it to you later this evening.
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post #6 of 11 Old 05-04-17, 13:11 Thread Starter
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I'll double check my service manual. Thanks! I figured if the number were to jump around on constant throttle, it would be a bad sensor just haven't tested it yet.
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post #7 of 11 Old 05-10-17, 19:05 Thread Starter
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So I got the manual adjuster installed and removed the ISM from the throttle body and then tucked it away but still attached to the wiring harness. No codes thrown and have about 50 miles on it with the current setup.

The throttle does not waver around like it used to. Before installing the manual adjuster I had cleaned the ISM and made sure it operated smoothly and had the 0.5mm gap between the arm and the throttle body. I can now hold the throttle open without the ISM adjusting and bumping the throttle actuator and increasing and dropping revs, as seen in the attached video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY53mGv2Zow

Also, I tested the TPS before and after this mod and it seems that the TPS is still working properly. I have it set to 0.62v when the bike is running and hot, as the manual states the TPS should be set to 0.60v +/- .02v, but does not specify hot or cold in the service manual. Any one know if it should be set hot or cold? Throttle response is good, however I still have a decel issue (both with and without the manual adjuster installed) where if I roll off throttle to decelerate it cuts throttle for a millisecond and resumes operation, resulting in slightly jerky response, as if the bike cuts fueling then resumes.

Any ideas? Like I said, TPS is set and the sensor checks out as good and doesn't fluctuate on steady throttle and resistance looks good.
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-15-18, 16:42
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I'm looking to fit a manual idle adjuster to my 2007 675 Daytona, how does it physically attach please, my kit only has 2 parts, the adjuster/cable and a spring, not sure if parts are missing
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-15-18, 23:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
I'm looking to fit a manual idle adjuster to my 2007 675 Daytona, how does it physically attach please, my kit only has 2 parts, the adjuster/cable and a spring, not sure if parts are missing
Thatís all you need. Remove the automatic adjuster and screw in the manual one where it went. Easy as that.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-26-18, 14:50
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Thank you for reply, I got it fitted ok and the stepper motor ancillaries are out of the way but I still have temperamental tickover and revs don't drop quickly when it is warmed up. Did you have to do any remapping?
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