If it's any consolation, @Hokie ran Q3's in the advanced group until they slid and had the rear step out on him fairly predictably. You'll be fine as long as you're careful.

First of all, the tire sizing system is totally messed up. 180 mm width (metric) by 55 height (percentile) on a 17 inch rim (imperial). The real problem is manufacturers aren't consistent. A 180/55 from Pirelli will be slightly different than a 180/55 from Dunlop. The 190 NTEC is actually designed for a 5.5" rear rim, but the Daytona already has flighty characteristics that make set-up hard (i.e. expensive) with such a tall tire. As a rule of thumb with the Triumph, you want to get 180 rears.

I am eventually going to upgrade the rear shock and put some cartridges in the forks. We are a Racetech dealer so I get great pricing on both, fully customer rear shock with hydraulic pre-load adjustment for just over $900 and fork cartridges for under $700. I figure if I put the money into the suspension, the bike will perform better allowing the tires to perform better as well. Once I have the suspension upgraded and feel the Q3s starting to give, I will make the change to race tires. I haven't done any actual races yet, but I am hoping to run at least one Wera weekend to get my license this year. Then focus on having everything set up for next year.

I have some small "sponsorships" from different companies, most notable being a track ambassador for Comet Racing Leathers (great custom fit leathers for a steal!!). Anthony Corbo with BauceRacing has helped me out with Armor Bodies track fairings (awesome guy to do business with!!!!).

I am hoping that next year I will have more substantial backing. So I want to do as much experimenting this year as possible so that I have a solid foundation to start with next year.

Yeah, I know about these discrepancies - I just input this as a general "rule of thumb" and a way to explain why the rear of the bike rose so much.

The geometry can indeed be a real problem with the Daytona - a friend of mine who used to race one, had a near heart-stopping incident with an unprovoked prolonged tankslapper which happened while cruising en route to the track. He was just lucky not to crash. He had mentioned some tyre experiments which I don't really remember what exactly they involved but after the incident he returned to manufacturer specs and never looked back.

Here is the tire ranking I've observed in my race organization

1 Michelin
2 Pirelli
3 Bridgestone
4 Dunlop

Dunlops are sometimes referred to as hockey pucks if that says anything. In fact, if the Dunlop vendor weren't such a nice, likable guy I doubt he'd sell a set at all.
If the B'stone rep weren't such a pain in the ass he'd probably sell a few more but they aren't well liked and seem to attract more of the light weight crowd. Michelin and Pirelli are the ticket right now.

All that being said, you need to find what works for you.

I have considered going to the michelin evo cups. My sales manager used to race CMRA and Wera and that's what he runs with and he seems to like them. I guess I will just have to try a few different brands and see what I like the most.

So a little update on this. I put the Q3s I ran previous to the GPAs on my second set of rims. Noticed during the install that the Q3 front was a 120/60-17 and not a 120/70-17. The GPA front is a 120/70-17. Put the rims side by side and the 120/70 is way taller than the 120/60. With the 120/60-17 Q3 and the 180/55-17 rear Q3 I put down my fastest lap times ever, by roughly 4-5 seconds. So I am thinking that for the time being I am going to stick with the Q3s and continue to run the 120/60 front because the bike felt smooth, predictable and stable in every corner. Not once did it do anything that surprised me.

I think my best option is to just push the Q3s until they become inconsistent or simply start to lack the grip I need. At that point I will start seriously looking at slicks but I believe I am going to stay as close to the Q3 sizes as I possibly can to limit the extent of required upgrades to correct the geometry of the bike to compensate for the tire change.

I appreciate all the input and advice from everyone. If anyone is interested I can be found on instagram using @WICKEDTRIPLE , or on youtube as wickedtriple.

Dunlop has a 190/55 in the NTEC slick.

http://stores.racetireservice.com/SLICKS-USA/

Diameter for Each size:

190/55 Slick = 25.48"
190/60 GPA = 25.91"

Almost half an inch difference.

I don't know what kind of pace you run but this reminds me of something from few years back. (Since you just moved to race tires I'm sure you're fine. This guy was used to running a race pace on race tires and attempted his pace on street tires)
Our race organization runs all day practice on Fridays. In order do save a few bucks a fellow racer slapped on some quality street tires as a means not to burn up his spendy race rubber. When the bike was trucked back into the paddock it didn't have a single salvageable part remaining...

I did the same thing but had very little drama. I just went in fully aware that I'd be a few seconds slower. Your fellow racer there had some serious false economy. For practice & track days, the best value is getting a decent set of race take-offs.

Old thread but wanted to add 2 cents as well. Another vote for 180/60. I Race with SC1's and love the tires. I used Pirelli SP V2's (street tire) on my S1000RR for all track days the previous year and loved those too. Get that sticky icky