Join Date: Aug 2006
Thanked 332 Times in 304 Posts
As with everything in life, it all depends on your budget. The 13+ Daytona is significantly more expensive and complicated to tune than the previous generation, but I went with the latest because of improved reliability.
1) A used R should only be about $1000 more than a standard Daytona. I went with an R mainly because of the included quick shifter and Brembo brakes. The Ohlins is better but only marginally. After installing an Attack linear shock link and professional set-up, I find the stock stuff to be fine for my pace (mid-pack expert club racing) and weight (160 lbs).
2) 2013-14 models need an upgraded OEM shift pivot plate (about $50). All models need a Sato shift spindle holder (about $100). If you get a new exhaust, you'll need a PC, Bazzaz, or Rapidbike etc. piggyback module to tune. As I'm sure you've read, tuners can't flash these ECU's. The stock brakes are good. The stock slipper clutch is good; I don't know anyone that's bothered replacing it. The stock hydraulic cam chain tensioner is hit-or-miss for track use. I replaced mine with a manual APE, but I know a few others still running the stock unit without problems. The stock damper is useless. I have an Ohlins in the stock mounting position with an Apex mount, but I've also had good experience with a top-mounted GPR. Otherwise, these bikes are pretty damn good out of the box. You might consider some Attack triples to fix the twitchiness and sometimes vague front end feel, but they're pretty expensive and not totally necessary if you're not a big trail braker and/or you're not terribly fast (be honest with yourself).
3) The ABS is fine but there's no reason to pay extra for it. If you can find a bike without it, go for it. Every other racer I know either turns it to the "race" setting or completely off. I accidentally left it on the street setting one time and the lever turned to complete mush in turn 1, forcing me to run off. Removing the ABS system requires a race harness and ECU at over $1000 new, but I decided that was worth it to me (I lucked out and found them used).
4) Ever racer needs spares. OEM parts take slightly longer than Japanese brands but I've never waited more than a couple weeks. Regardless, you should order any OEM parts you may need before the season starts - oil filters, crush washers, engine cover gaskets etc. Aftermarket parts are easy to get and used bits like rear sets and levers are pretty common. Wheels are another story. 13+ wheels are especially fragile and used sets aren't easy to find. You can get 06-12 wheels to fit but you'll need to make new spacers. I'm eventually going aftermarket but I have yet to see a cheap option.
5) I have Catalyst uppers and lowers and a Sharkskinz tail. Both brands mounted easily, crash really well and my painter appreciated the quality of the primer. They are two of the more expensive brands, though. I've heard good things about Armour Bodies at a slightly lower price point.
By comparison, if you were to race a 2011-12 675R, you would get the same Ohlins, Brembo and quick shifter package at a lower cost. The motor isn't as strong or as reliable, but used OEM spares are easier to find (especially wheels) and with TuneECU, they're easier to tune and remove street/emissions parts without throwing a CEL.
Last edited by MGFChapin; 03-15-17 at 22:12.