Thinkig about buying a 675 to race and need feedback - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 13:39 Thread Starter
dogged
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Thinkig about buying a 675 to race and need feedback

Hi everyone,


I'm considering looking for a 675 to add to my racebike stable. I currently race a 06 CBR 600rr and like the way the 675 can pull me on streights. Since I know nothing about the platform, I would love your opinion on a few things:


1. It looks like the "R" version is only about $2k more than a standard one. Are the factory Ohlins ok for race duty? If I have to dump them for upgraded versions, then there may be no real advantage to look for "R"s.
2. Assuming I'm looking at '13 and up, what are the "typical" upgrades the base platform needs to be competitive and reliable? (PC, clutch, damper, tune, headers, etc)
3. I've read mixed reviews on the ABS system. Is it truly that bad on the track? If so, looking for a base, non-ABS would save some extra money.
4. Are parts easy to get, especially used stuff that crashes in a race environment? How about extra wheels? Speaking of wheels, are they all the same, or is there a forged set available that doesn't cost $ 2500?
5. What race bodywork is preferred for the 675?


Thanks in advance for the info!
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 15:29
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Welcome!

As with everything in life, it all depends on your budget. The 13+ Daytona is significantly more expensive and complicated to tune than the previous generation, but I went with the latest because of improved reliability.

1) A used R should only be about $1000 more than a standard Daytona. I went with an R mainly because of the included quick shifter and Brembo brakes. The Ohlins is better but only marginally. After installing an Attack linear shock link and professional set-up, I find the stock stuff to be fine for my pace (mid-pack expert club racing) and weight (160 lbs).

2) 2013-14 models need an upgraded OEM shift pivot plate (about $50). All models need a Sato shift spindle holder (about $100). If you get a new exhaust, you'll need a PC, Bazzaz, or Rapidbike etc. piggyback module to tune. As I'm sure you've read, tuners can't flash these ECU's. The stock brakes are good. The stock slipper clutch is good; I don't know anyone that's bothered replacing it. The stock hydraulic cam chain tensioner is hit-or-miss for track use. I replaced mine with a manual APE, but I know a few others still running the stock unit without problems. The stock damper is useless. I have an Ohlins in the stock mounting position with an Apex mount, but I've also had good experience with a top-mounted GPR. Otherwise, these bikes are pretty damn good out of the box. You might consider some Attack triples to fix the twitchiness and sometimes vague front end feel, but they're pretty expensive and not totally necessary if you're not a big trail braker and/or you're not terribly fast (be honest with yourself).

3) The ABS is fine but there's no reason to pay extra for it. If you can find a bike without it, go for it. Every other racer I know either turns it to the "race" setting or completely off. I accidentally left it on the street setting one time and the lever turned to complete mush in turn 1, forcing me to run off. Removing the ABS system requires a race harness and ECU at over $1000 new, but I decided that was worth it to me (I lucked out and found them used).

4) Ever racer needs spares. OEM parts take slightly longer than Japanese brands but I've never waited more than a couple weeks. Regardless, you should order any OEM parts you may need before the season starts - oil filters, crush washers, engine cover gaskets etc. Aftermarket parts are easy to get and used bits like rear sets and levers are pretty common. Wheels are another story. 13+ wheels are especially fragile and used sets aren't easy to find. You can get 06-12 wheels to fit but you'll need to make new spacers. I'm eventually going aftermarket but I have yet to see a cheap option.

5) I have Catalyst uppers and lowers and a Sharkskinz tail. Both brands mounted easily, crash really well and my painter appreciated the quality of the primer. They are two of the more expensive brands, though. I've heard good things about Armour Bodies at a slightly lower price point.

By comparison, if you were to race a 2011-12 675R, you would get the same Ohlins, Brembo and quick shifter package at a lower cost. The motor isn't as strong or as reliable, but used OEM spares are easier to find (especially wheels) and with TuneECU, they're easier to tune and remove street/emissions parts without throwing a CEL.

Last edited by MGFChapin; 03-15-17 at 21:12.
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 19:14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
Welcome!

As with everything in life, it all depends on your budget. The 13+ Daytona is significantly more expensive and complicated to tune than the previous generation, but I went with the latest because of improved reliability.

1) A used R should only be about $1000 more than a standard Daytona. I went with an R mainly because of the included quick shifter and Brembo brakes. The Ohlins is better but only marginally. After installing an Attack linear shock link and professional set-up, I find the stock stuff to be fine for my pace (mid-pack expert club racing) and weight (160 lbs).

2) 2013-14 models need an upgraded OEM shift pivot plate (about $150). All models need a Sato shift spindle holder (about $100). If you get a new exhaust, you'll need a PC, Bazzaz, or Rapidbike etc. piggyback module to tune. As I'm sure you've read, tuners can't flash these ECU's. The stock brakes are good. The stock slipper clutch is good; I don't know anyone that's bothered replacing it. The stock hydraulic cam chain tensioner is hit-or-miss for track use. I replaced mine with a manual APE, but I know a few others still running the stock unit without problems. The stock damper is useless. I have an Ohlins in the stock mounting position with an Apex mount, but I've also had good experience with a top-mounted GPR. Otherwise, these bikes are pretty damn good out of the box. You might consider some Attack triples to fix the twitchiness and sometimes vague front end feel, but they're pretty expensive and not totally necessary if you're not a big trail braker and/or you're not terribly fast (be honest with yourself).

3) The ABS is fine but there's no reason to pay extra for it. If you can find a bike without it, go for it. Every other racer I know either turns it to the "race" setting or completely off. I accidentally left it on the street setting one time and the lever turned to complete mush in turn 1, forcing me to run off. Removing the ABS system requires a race harness and ECU at over $1000 new, but I decided that was worth it to me (I lucked out and found them used).

4) Ever racer needs spares. OEM parts take slightly longer than Japanese brands but I've never waited more than a couple weeks. Regardless, you should order any OEM parts you may need before the season starts - oil filters, crush washers, engine cover gaskets etc. Aftermarket parts are easy to get and used bits like rear sets and levers are pretty common. Wheels are another story. 13+ wheels are especially fragile and used sets aren't easy to find. You can get 06-12 wheels to fit but you'll need to make new spacers. I'm eventually going aftermarket but I have yet to see a cheap option.

5) I have Catalyst uppers and lowers and a Sharkskinz tail. Both brands mounted easily, crash really well and my painter appreciated the quality of the primer. They are two of the more expensive brands, though. I've heard good things about Armour Bodies at a slightly lower price point.

By comparison, if you were to race a 2011-12 675R, you would get the same Ohlins, Brembo and quick shifter package at a lower cost. The motor isn't as strong or as reliable, but used OEM spares are easier to find (especially wheels) and with TuneECU, they're easier to tune and remove street/emissions parts without throwing a CEL.
What do you mean by the 13-14's need an upgraded shift pivot plate? Something i should change? Pretty sure mines factory.



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post #4 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 19:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline87 View Post
What do you mean by the 13-14's need an upgraded shift pivot plate? Something i should change? Pretty sure mines factory.
Yes, it's something you should change. The old ones wear faster and it's pretty obvious when it starts to go, but it will eventually wear out. Especially when using a quick shifter and especially on the track. The updated OE Triumph kit is probably the best way to go, it's P/N T1194905. $100 cheaper than basically the same thing from Apex Mfg but you also get a new detent wheel.
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 20:51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline87 View Post
What do you mean by the 13-14's need an upgraded shift pivot plate? Something i should change? Pretty sure mines factory.
100% agree with MGF. I changed mine out last year... i think there are posts on here somewhere with it... and the oem shift pivot plate was F%&$^^#... metal was worn off... no wonder my shifts felt like shit
with new one is a much different design and much better feel to shifts.
I got the kit with the pivot plate and shift star....
you will need to pull the entire clutch to get to it... im happy to help any way i can.. i found the maintenance manual a huge help.. and @Pergrem HUGE shout out!!! he helped so much, couldnt have done it without him!

And for racing, just go with an R and then mod from there

That Others May Live
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 21:20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
Yes, it's something you should change. The old ones wear faster and it's pretty obvious when it starts to go, but it will eventually wear out. Especially when using a quick shifter and especially on the track. The updated OE Triumph kit is probably the best way to go, it's P/N T1194905. $100 cheaper than basically the same thing from Apex Mfg but you also get a new detent wheel.
Detent wheel worth the extra money or no?



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post #7 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 22:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline87 View Post
Detent wheel worth the extra money or no?
I think that part number includes the detent wheel but if it doesn't, yes, it's worth installing.
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-15-17, 22:39
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As for buying the bike for racing. You can go straight to Triumph and get bikes and parts at reduced rate.

https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=227938

Quote:
The Triumph Racer Support Program offers Daytona 675Rs available for purchase at $10,000. With the purchase of a motorcycle through this program, parts will be offered at a reduced cost of 50% off retail pricing for the 2017 racing season.
Now MGF has me concerned about my shift pivot plate. I track, but don't race.

Found the pivot plate/detent wheel for $55.48
http://www.triumphestore.com/p/Trium.../T1194905.html
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-16-17, 12:44
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Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
I think that part number includes the detent wheel but if it doesn't, yes, it's worth installing.
http://www.triumphestore.com/p/Trium.../T1194905.html

Is this everything in need?

I pmed you what my bikes doing. Think thats it?



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post #10 of 17 Old 03-16-17, 13:37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline87 View Post
http://www.triumphestore.com/p/Trium.../T1194905.html

Is this everything in need?

I pmed you what my bikes doing. Think thats it?
Yes, that's what you need and I would be scratching my head if that didn't fix it.
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