Originally Posted by tottenham12712
Okay update time. I just got back from NYST PIG ROAST. I’m spent. Road Saturday and Sunday.
So I got a new chain and ring setup. 520 -1 +1 (15,48) I should have gone 49 but whatever.
I lowered my rear by two and a half mm. I(removed the washer as my side bight spacer). I lengthen my wheel length. Pulled the wheel back in the swing arm. I have 117 links I think. I started playing with clickers. Started with.
10 out compression
12 out rebound.
It was better but rebound was slow.
I kept taking some out by one every session.
At one point I was 18 out and still had leading edge issues.
BUT my tearing was almost gone.
Still had some but was much better than the last two times out.
This was too much out . So I put 3 in
And two out of comp.
This was a good setup for me.
I have to take some pictures and I will post them when I have time.
My next job is triples and a Computrack check.
Stay away from computrack. Guy is all over the place and has made some really bad mistakes putting peoples equipment back together.
Post some photos of the tire wear and the sipes, also of the rear swing arm location. 2.5mm and the swing arm being pushed back is getting way closer to being correct but you still need to drop a few more mm, I would imagine thats why the tear is just hanging around a bit.
How many miles or hours are on the rear shock since it was last serviced? Depending on how fast you are the rear shock can start going off within 2-4 days of riding. You should be servicing the rear at least once per year if you are at the track several weekends a year.
How did it turn?..
- When you turned in was it a single input and then on rails to apex? Did it feel like it wanted to push wide? Did it feel like it wanted to fall into the corner?
- When you opened the throttle did the bike go where you wanted? Did it want to run wide? Did it feel like you needed to add steering input to get the bike to run wide?
EDIT: Triples are not required unless you are chasing that last 1 second of time at a track during a race, get your bike working properly before changing more stuff otherwise you will be chasing setup forever. Secondly if you swap triples you will no longer be eligible for stock class racing if you plan on doing that.
So the GMD stuff I’m well aware of. I’m looking for it to be measured to see how the #’s look.
I completely removed the ride height spacers. So the shock height has as low as it can be.
The forks are 3mm from flush.
The shock was serviced in April. It has about 500 track miles on it about 7 track days.
Same for the forks.
Turn in is slower especially when I’m not at my typical pace .
I’m an ex LRRS Expert and was a top rider when I did race a lifetime ago. I’m slower now but can be fast usually top 5 fast guys on any given track day . I’m saying this only as a pace baseline.
I was having confidence issues in the front end mid corner on bumpy sections where the tarmac was torn from cars.
Aside from the sipes slightly wearing high on the leading edge my tires were night and day compared to the last two times out.
Your help was very informative and I really appreciate the help.
I’m going do a refresh on the shock and forks hopefully before winter.
I’m hoping that will help the tire wear.
The triple tree is not really needed but more for raising the rear up and more front end feel mid corner.
I tuck the front when I get the pace up to a “race pace” . I have yet to fall because I save it with my knee.
The faster I go the better the handles but the front limits my pace. I fall into a trap when I’m on . She only handles well when I push her and the front makes me nervous.
The whole package was a tad slower turning in and out but I could overcome that with riding her on a slightly earlier turn in line with more run out space.
I will say over the hill it was much more stable. No hint of wheeling or nervous front lifting. That’s the biggest positive about this setup.