Street triple cranks no start - Triumph675.Net Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-09-19, 12:05 Thread Starter
marastreet
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Street triple cranks no start

Hello,

Bike: Street triple R 2011.

I need help with diagnosis of no start with cranking. I was not riding for a week, then i came back to my bike and it didnt start just cranked. Tried hooking the battery of a car. Still nothing. Tried bump starting. Still nothing. Startup procedure seems to be correct (fuel pump sound and dash works). I did my research and the posts on internet lead me to cps. The ohms reading is out of spec (around 3M ohms, should be 210 ohm, but on some threads people said it is not 100% indicator), but it generates voltage of around 2V when cracking, so that is weird, seems to be working?

I tried connecting my cheap elm327 bluetooth diagnostics. It connected, some data is available, but no error codes (not even when unplugging the sensor and then cranking - what?). It show 0 rpm while cranking, but maybe the elm327 is not connecting greatly? Should rpm be shown when cranking, because when i searched videos of triumph startups, the dash does not show any rpm before starting?

Some things point to cps, other do not. What do you think I dont wanna waste money on good sensor (they cost a lot) and really make sure it is the cps before i throw it out?
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-09-19, 18:55
MadMel
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In my experience, the ohm test not being 100% accurate is when the ohms are fine but the CPS is bad. Impedance that high ain't good.
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-10-19, 09:48
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Take a look at your stator as well.
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-10-19, 11:04 Thread Starter
marastreet
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If it was stator, the bike would start, but the battery wouldnt charge? Or I am wrong?

Today i connected the sensor to oscilloscope (my friend has one) and the sensor gives range of -6v to 6v (always more than 2v (or -2v)), with exactly 22 peaks and then dip (missing reference tooth). I calculated the rpm to be around 300 rpm from this (not exactly because there is some small variation 20% between each rotation). Only weird thing is that sometimes the one amplitude seems shorter sometimes longer.

Here is link to oscilloscope images: https://imgur.com/a/dFqRYCY.

Can anyone verify this, did anyone test this?
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-10-19, 14:12 Thread Starter
marastreet
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Edit: I was measuring the voltage, when the sensor was disconnected from the ECU. Got way different reading now (amplitude is very low), measuring it connected to the ECU. Ordered new one. I will report if it really was the sensor, once it arrives for future reference.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-10-19, 20:30
mikemignardi
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The stator generates power for the plugs.

Without a stator there would be no spark at all, meaning the engine won't run.

I had the same issue on my 675r.

Once I ruled out the battery, plugs, wires, cps. and fuel pump i pulled the stator and sure enough it had numerous fried coils.

I bought a replacement and on the second crank she fired up.

It only takes a few minutes to pull the cover and give it an inspection.
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-11-19, 00:33
MadMel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemignardi View Post
The stator generates power for the plugs.

Without a stator there would be no spark at all, meaning the engine won't run.

I had the same issue on my 675r.

Once I ruled out the battery, plugs, wires, cps. and fuel pump i pulled the stator and sure enough it had numerous fried coils.

I bought a replacement and on the second crank she fired up.

It only takes a few minutes to pull the cover and give it an inspection.
Actually, my 2011 675R runs fine without a stator. Unplug it at the connector and see. I've done an entire race weekend with the stator wires snipped at the connector after it melted down, just needed to charge the battery between races.
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-11-19, 10:00
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^^^
Interesting.
Good to know!
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-11-19, 16:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemignardi View Post
^^^
Interesting.
Good to know!
Of course, it won't last very long without charging the battery, but a racebike without lights and so on has no issues getting through a race or track day session if charge it in the pits. I borrowed a good battery charger when it happened... lesson learned and bought a 7 amp NOCO Genius charger that lives in the toolbox now.
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-20-19, 06:38
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Hello marastreet,

Did you find the cause of the issue? I was looking in the Triumph service manual for the 2013+ bikes, (I have a '14), and the crankshaft sensor pinpoint tests do not give any ohm reading tests. It gives steps in checking the wiring harness for continuity and shorts. Did you get a fault code?
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