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Make Your stock rotors full floating

26K views 59 replies 17 participants last post by  bryhart2 
#1 · (Edited)
So I've been eyeing this mod for several years. This year I finally made the move on it but found that TPO who use to make the floating rotor buttons everyone used is out of business. The alternative from STM would have been over $200 with extra shims and I long wait for the ship to circle the world twice then find a sober captain before making it to the USA and fighting customs. That's when I finally recalled that the BMW rotor buttons were the correct diameter. However they are also expensive but I knew BMW rotors were all Brembos and voila. Brembo makes full floating rotors with round buttons. I tracked down that part number and did a search and every motorcycle supplier worth their salt carries them and the specs looked like they should work.

Here's what you need to know. The Brembo buttons work but our rotors are only 4mm thick and the Brembo rotors are 5.5mm. So we need 1.5mm shims to make these work.

Update. 2013+ Daytona R has 4.5mm rotors use the 1mm shims for those.

Here's what you need.

Brembo brake buttons 2 packages of 10each part# 105715910
KurveyGirl.com (very reputable well known parts site) sells these currently for $36 a package. https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=920&osCsid=7r2588m7epknqs3vbn45debqm7

For pre-13 4mm rotors 2 packages of 10ea 1.5mm shims from McMaster-Carr. They are currently $9.48 a package. https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a129/=1dfkt1d

For 13+ Daytona R 5.5 rotors. 1 package of 25ea 1mm shims from McMaster-Carr. They are currently $11.50 a package.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a392/=1dg2ug8

So total price on this without tax and shipping $91. That's a hell of a deal for floating rotors no matter how you look at it.

If you want to know why you want floating rotors here's a thread where it was discussed previously.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19762&highlight=full+floating+conversion

You'll need to drill out the old rivets to do the swap. Depending on the year of your bike you have 8 or 10 buttons per rotor and you'll have to drill at least 7 to get them apart.

You can do this without a drill press but I have one and it does make it easier. You can see in the photo that you need to hold the front of the button with vice grips while you drill out the back side where the button has been rolled. You'll want to use at least a ⅜" drill bit ½" works too.





Once apart here's what the old rotor buttons look like sitting on the carrier with the rotor off.



Here's what the floating buttons look like. You can see that I put the shim that comes with the Brembo button agains the button and the thicker shim from McMaster against the clip. It really doesn't matter but I think this is probably the best way. Also note when installing that all stamped parts have a sharp edge and a rounded edge. So in this case the shims and the e-clip have a sharp edge. That sharp edge on the clip should face out. This will give it the most strength. This goes for anytime you're installing clips on any parts. I also faced the sharp edge of the shims out away fro the rotor to ensure that it moves as freely as possible.



Here are before and after videos. Before I get 2 full revolutions this is after doing every trick I know to reduce drag including using Yamaha monoblock calipers. I know a lot of Triumphs are lucky to get a little over one rotation.



Something I just finally realized today. Ever since I installed the BST wheels it's seemed like I have a bit more brake drag. It just occurred to me that it's not increased brake drag but reduced rotating mass making it seem like more drag when I spin the wheel.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I do believe so. Actually I think someone in that old thread I linked to measured their’s.

Just so people know I just checked the service manuals and they can’t be trusted. The updated manual for the pre-13 manual says the rotors are 5mm for all models. The manual for 13+ may be correct though. It says the Street Triple is 4mm and the Daytona nd Daytona R are 4.5mm.

Once we know for sure I’ll include the link to the correct shim size for the rotor thickness if it is indeed thicker.
 
#7 ·
I bought them from JD about 2 years ago.

Something I just finally realized today. Ever since I installed the BST wheels it's seemed like I have a bit more brake drag. It just occurred to me that it's not increased brake drag but reduced rotating mass making it seem like more drag when I spin the wheel.
 
#8 ·
Ive updated my OP to include the shimFor 13+ Daytona R 5.5 rotors.

This is what is needed 1 package of 25ea 1mm shims from McMaster-Carr. They are currently $11.50 a package.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a392/=1dg2ug8s for the 4.5mm rotors.

Also I've already gotten asked if I would be willing to do the swap for a member on here. I can do that. Just PM me and let me know what you want me to do i.e. you source everything and send it to me with the rotors or if I source everything and you just send the rotors. Price for my labor will be $50 if everything is provided plus you pay for shipping both ways. If you want me to source everything the price will be $175 for the 4mm rotors and $170 for the 5.5mm rotors plus you pay shipping both ways for the rotors. The difference in price is because the difference in the total cost of shims.
 
#9 ·
...Also I've already gotten asked if I would be willing to do the swap for a member on here. I can do that. Just PM me and let me know what you want me to do i.e. you source everything and send it to me with the rotors or if I source everything and you just send the rotors. Price for my labor will be $50 if everything is provided plus you pay for shipping both ways. If you want me to source everything the price will be $175 for the 4mm rotors and $170 for the 5.5mm rotors plus you pay shipping both ways for the rotors. The difference in price is because the difference in the total cost of shims.
You might want to consider putting in a disclaimer, like:

I will measure the Rotor run-out and thickness, and will not complete the installation if either measurement is out of spec. Customer will still be responsible for return shipping if they want the Rotor returned.

Just a thought, but to me, I wouldn't want to deal with a potential problem. :smile2:
 
#10 ·
I can measure thickness but can’t do runout without mounting them which I won’t be doing.

Here’s my limitation though. I will only offer this service for members of this site who have been here long enough to have become part of the community and that I trust. So in other words I reserve the right to refuse service on any grounds. :grin2:
 
#12 ·
I made a handful of these off the TPO design. 7075 and hard ano black. I've just been lazy about ordering c-clips for them because I couldn't find the right shims. I made them specifically for the Daytona so they are designed for a 4.5mm rotor. If I could find the super slim shims that came with the TPO buttons I'd have a few extra sets. I think I made 60 or so buttons. I figured that shim would be easy to source. I was wrong. I may have to start looking again.
 
#14 ·
Alright, screw it. I'm going to do this sometime in July/August before the next trackdays. For $100ish, why not? I've got a spare set of rotors if it doesn't work out as planned anyway. I'll take a look at my FZ-09 rotors as well when I take the wheels off next. Might do that one as well.
 
#18 ·
I know for a fact they are. T-drives are a mm thicker and weigh half a pound more each. Considering the pads and M/C I currently have, not sure I really need more braking power; I'd probably rather have less weight and some floaters. I'll order the parts next week and figure out a convenient time for you.
 
#22 ·
I have a spare set of Metal Gear rotors but the buttons appear to be different. The sunstar rotor buttons have a smaller inner diameter.

I have emailed them to ask about replacement buttons. I'll see if I can get more info from them!!


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#23 ·
#24 ·
Good write up. I’m going to give this a try over the winter on my 765 RS. The rotors measure 4.7mm so I’ll go with the 1mm shims.

The slight brake drag you still you still have is from the metal clips that apply some pressure on the brake pads themselves. You can remove the metal clips if you wish to completely remove any drag. There are some people on the aprilia forums that have done this and have never had an issue. The only purpose of the clips are to eliminate brake pad rattle.
 
#25 ·
The clips also reduce wear on the brake pad pin since the pads aren’t rattling agains the pin constantly. If you look close even with the spring the pin will have some wear. In addition the spring prevents the pads from rattling the pistons further in then normal preventing a longer brake lever pull that might occur when there is more time between brake use. Yes you can run without it but I don’t have enough drag for it even to really matter. The reason the wheel doesn’t spin several more revolutions is simply because it’s so light. With the stock wheel it would be much more impressive.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Were any of you experiencing shudder under heavy braking prior to this modification? If so, did this help.

This weekend was my first ride on @pick's '16 675R, and under the HEAVY braking coming in to T12 at COTA I felt a significant amount of shutter at the hardest point of braking. Reading some of the other threads here it seems some say "make sure buttons are not stuck". Seems like this could be a good mod to help with this.
 
#39 ·
Ever since I bought it used, my 2014 has had a slight shuttering sensation, too. I thought it may be a warped rotor. Always with medium to hard pressure.
Check the steering head bearings, they might need to be re-greased/adjusted.
 
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#33 ·
If your interested I will post up a review of the buttons I linked, as I will be installing on my Panigale and F3 800.


Mostly likely will swap my galfer rotors to these, as galfer wont sell them outright.
 
#34 ·
What are the dimensions of the buttons required for the Sunstar rotors?

TIA

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#36 ·
Interesting chat with a technician at Metal Gear (who make & sell rotors) regarding the fitment of these buttons.

He does NOT recommend fitting full floating buttons as they can/will cause premature wear on the alloy carrier. He also doesn't recommend the use of buttons with circlips (as compared to flared) as they can come off and in theory if enough do, the carrier and steel rotor could separate.

His comment was fully floating rotors are older technology which were used to compensate for greater machining tolerances of the mating face between wheel and rotor, and the rotors themselves.

He suggested more attention be paid to the caliper pistons (and their movement back in after the brakes are let off), levers that have no free-play causing the master cylinder piston to be permanently depressed, and even over full fluid reservoirs. He also suggested checking the pads can move freely within the caliper as well.

Food for thought...


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#44 ·
His comment was fully floating rotors are older technology which were used to compensate for greater machining tolerances of the mating face between wheel and rotor, and the rotors themselves.
I do find it telling that on the Metal Gear website they sell full floating rotors and they say they improve brake performance over non-floating rotors. Something is weird about that guy you talked to.
 
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