So I've been eyeing this mod for several years. This year I finally made the move on it but found that TPO who use to make the floating rotor buttons everyone used is out of business. The alternative from STM would have been over $200 with extra shims and I long wait for the ship to circle the world twice then find a sober captain before making it to the USA and fighting customs. That's when I finally recalled that the BMW rotor buttons were the correct diameter. However they are also expensive but I knew BMW rotors were all Brembos and voila. Brembo makes full floating rotors with round buttons. I tracked down that part number and did a search and every motorcycle supplier worth their salt carries them and the specs looked like they should work.
Here's what you need to know. The Brembo buttons work but our rotors are only 4mm thick and the Brembo rotors are 5.5mm. So we need 1.5mm shims to make these work.
Update. 2013+ Daytona R has 4.5mm rotors use the 1mm shims for those.
Here's what you need.
Brembo brake buttons 2 packages of 10each part# 105715910
KurveyGirl.com (very reputable well known parts site) sells these currently for $36 a package. https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=920&osCsid=7r2588m7epknqs3vbn45debqm7
For pre-13 4mm rotors 2 packages of 10ea 1.5mm shims from McMaster-Carr. They are currently $9.48 a package. https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a129/=1dfkt1d
For 13+ Daytona R 5.5 rotors. 1 package of 25ea 1mm shims from McMaster-Carr. They are currently $11.50 a package.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a392/=1dg2ug8
So total price on this without tax and shipping $91. That's a hell of a deal for floating rotors no matter how you look at it.
If you want to know why you want floating rotors here's a thread where it was discussed previously.
http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19762&highlight=full+floating+conversion
You'll need to drill out the old rivets to do the swap. Depending on the year of your bike you have 8 or 10 buttons per rotor and you'll have to drill at least 7 to get them apart.
You can do this without a drill press but I have one and it does make it easier. You can see in the photo that you need to hold the front of the button with vice grips while you drill out the back side where the button has been rolled. You'll want to use at least a ⅜" drill bit ½" works too.
Once apart here's what the old rotor buttons look like sitting on the carrier with the rotor off.
Here's what the floating buttons look like. You can see that I put the shim that comes with the Brembo button agains the button and the thicker shim from McMaster against the clip. It really doesn't matter but I think this is probably the best way. Also note when installing that all stamped parts have a sharp edge and a rounded edge. So in this case the shims and the e-clip have a sharp edge. That sharp edge on the clip should face out. This will give it the most strength. This goes for anytime you're installing clips on any parts. I also faced the sharp edge of the shims out away fro the rotor to ensure that it moves as freely as possible.
Here are before and after videos. Before I get 2 full revolutions this is after doing every trick I know to reduce drag including using Yamaha monoblock calipers. I know a lot of Triumphs are lucky to get a little over one rotation.
Something I just finally realized today. Ever since I installed the BST wheels it's seemed like I have a bit more brake drag. It just occurred to me that it's not increased brake drag but reduced rotating mass making it seem like more drag when I spin the wheel.
Here's what you need to know. The Brembo buttons work but our rotors are only 4mm thick and the Brembo rotors are 5.5mm. So we need 1.5mm shims to make these work.
Update. 2013+ Daytona R has 4.5mm rotors use the 1mm shims for those.
Here's what you need.
Brembo brake buttons 2 packages of 10each part# 105715910
KurveyGirl.com (very reputable well known parts site) sells these currently for $36 a package. https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=920&osCsid=7r2588m7epknqs3vbn45debqm7
For pre-13 4mm rotors 2 packages of 10ea 1.5mm shims from McMaster-Carr. They are currently $9.48 a package. https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a129/=1dfkt1d
For 13+ Daytona R 5.5 rotors. 1 package of 25ea 1mm shims from McMaster-Carr. They are currently $11.50 a package.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a392/=1dg2ug8
So total price on this without tax and shipping $91. That's a hell of a deal for floating rotors no matter how you look at it.
If you want to know why you want floating rotors here's a thread where it was discussed previously.
http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19762&highlight=full+floating+conversion
You'll need to drill out the old rivets to do the swap. Depending on the year of your bike you have 8 or 10 buttons per rotor and you'll have to drill at least 7 to get them apart.
You can do this without a drill press but I have one and it does make it easier. You can see in the photo that you need to hold the front of the button with vice grips while you drill out the back side where the button has been rolled. You'll want to use at least a ⅜" drill bit ½" works too.
Once apart here's what the old rotor buttons look like sitting on the carrier with the rotor off.
Here's what the floating buttons look like. You can see that I put the shim that comes with the Brembo button agains the button and the thicker shim from McMaster against the clip. It really doesn't matter but I think this is probably the best way. Also note when installing that all stamped parts have a sharp edge and a rounded edge. So in this case the shims and the e-clip have a sharp edge. That sharp edge on the clip should face out. This will give it the most strength. This goes for anytime you're installing clips on any parts. I also faced the sharp edge of the shims out away fro the rotor to ensure that it moves as freely as possible.
Here are before and after videos. Before I get 2 full revolutions this is after doing every trick I know to reduce drag including using Yamaha monoblock calipers. I know a lot of Triumphs are lucky to get a little over one rotation.
Something I just finally realized today. Ever since I installed the BST wheels it's seemed like I have a bit more brake drag. It just occurred to me that it's not increased brake drag but reduced rotating mass making it seem like more drag when I spin the wheel.