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post #41 of 57 Old 12-04-07, 02:14 Thread Starter
Just Bob
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Re: SAME BOLTS?

Quote:
Originally Posted by skip4609
on my "07 daytona the damper bracket bolts are not the same! My bike is fitted with shorter "torque head" bolts and they are black in color. Maybe triump fixed the problem? :?:
I think a bolt is a bolt. Still going into an aluminum thread so it can't be cranked down too much. Best fix would be some loctite. Or check it very frequently.

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post #42 of 57 Old 12-21-07, 13:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilfish View Post
9 N-m
Please excuse my lack of knowledge, but...

Isn't 9 N-m only a little tighter than finger tight?
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post #43 of 57 Old 12-21-07, 17:08 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianereed View Post
Please excuse my lack of knowledge, but...

Isn't 9 N-m only a little tighter than finger tight?
That equates to 6.6 lb.ft. of torque, and you're right - that is just past finger tight. I think the engineers were properly thinking that the functional loading on this fastener was perpendicular, or in shear on the bolt. The torque is only to secure the bracket and remember it is going into a soft aluminum thread. I don't think they saw the potential for locking the steering at the design/ spec stage. If they had, I believe they would have spec.ed a thread lock compound.

But I have to reiterate, I am NOT an engineer - just a regular guy with a bunch of tools and years of learning the hard way how to twist off a bolt head or bodge a thread... (honey, have you seen my heli-coils around?:oops:).

And having not dis-assembled a newer one, I don't know that they haven't started doing this.

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post #44 of 57 Old 01-03-08, 14:38
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hi!i believe 10-15Nm is ok.most important is the thread locking compound.ALWAYS use in such cases.
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post #45 of 57 Old 03-24-08, 15:56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsnoles1984 View Post
Thank you for this info! Now I have a valid safety reason to ditch the stock damper and get the GPR V4 :rotfl Can always justify mods with the fiance when it's a safety issue! :lol:
My plan exactly!!!
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post #46 of 57 Old 04-14-08, 06:07
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bump on this subject

guys have a question relating to the loose steering damper problem.

i have a feb 08 daytona SE. i have fitted a few mods and last was a radiator gaurd ,lower triangle insert and swapped the air intake tube to gold like the rad gaurds. i was around the steering damper and noticed the different security type torque head bolts now used.i never once touched the damper or bolts and did not think much more of it.
i went to leave work today at lunch and the steering did not feel right when turning full lock left.
when i grabbed the damper it had free play as normal , but the body of the damper (cast body) and it had 15 movement up and down.only 5mm from hitting nose fairing. i rang the dealer and they weren't too fussed. i thought is was loose.
i got a 6mm long allen key on a socket and with a 1/2 drive long extension passed thru handle bars and check the allen bolt thru the lower tripple tree. seemed tight. i , in my wisdon thought im gunna pull it out and put loctite all over it. started to undo it and 1 and 1/2 turns later the bolt fell out.
the thread part of the damper housing had thread curls screwed out if the hole. it had been crossed threaded at the factory and was in 1 and 1/2 threads and the housing was now knackered. factory worker thought the rattle gun did her up tight enough obviously ??
cable/zip tied it up and rode on down to the dealer ship (ever so gingerly)
1 new damper on order , lets see how long its off the road for.

any one else had this predicerment.

cheers tim
p.s checked the dealers demo on the way out , 2006 s/y 12000klms , had some movement up and down , now the dealer has checked everyone in stock, 1 more used and 1 brand new.all with varying amounts of movement.

Sitrucmit675
so many roads,twists and turns. Where do i start? I know , on a D 675


Hey Casey lets swap bikes ?
NAAH i think i like the honda better ????
Told you Valentino "no.1 for 2011" and you couldn't get a podium ??
Thought you were gunna tame the big duke
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post #47 of 57 Old 04-14-08, 09:23
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Garage
Quote:
If you are going to keep the stock damper, I would recommend pulling these bolts and re-installing with 'red' high grip Locktight, or have your dealer service department do it.
Red loctite, IMHO, is just a bit too extreme in this instance. Yes that will work but you'll have to take a torch to the mount bolts to get them hot enough to break the loctite bond when you want to remove them. Blue loctite on a clean torqued bolt will be fine. Every now and again, do a visual and/or a wrench check that the bolt is still tight.

OR... once torqued w/ blue loctite put a spot of paint, nail polish, epoxy (note a said spot!) as a tell tale. Where a visual indication lets you know the bolt has moved. Or safety wire being the best of all.

I didn't read through all the posts in this thread so maybe somebody beat me to it. But you really want to be careful where you use red loctite. As you may one day want to remove it.

No Comment!
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post #48 of 57 Old 04-15-08, 22:00
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Great Post...

Just checked the mounting bolts on my 06 and they were tight. Not taking
any chances,pulled them out and loc-tited them...
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post #49 of 57 Old 07-03-08, 12:28
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Sorry to thread jack since the Street Triples don't have this problem, but does anyone know the size and thread pattern of these bolts?
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post #50 of 57 Old 04-07-09, 17:15
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Arrow

I just tried getting at my bolts and they are definitely different than the ones pictures in the beginning of this thread.

They are not a socket bolt at all. They are a star bolt. Not a torx either. Mine are black and I tried to unscrew them and they REALLY seem to be in there... so rather than possibly stripping them I am now leaving them., not sure how I feel about this as it could be a catostophic problem if something happens and they become loose..

-Nigel

~NSG~


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