Valve Adjustment Parts Needed? - Page 2 - Triumph675.Net Forums
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #11 of 17 Old 05-07-18, 14:01 Thread Starter
AYoDread
Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
AYoDread's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 317
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
Yep. You already had T1260309 in your original list, but no quantity. Just verify it’s 6.
yes I have 6 next to quanity, everything else is 1.

Thanks again

"I don't know who you noobs are. I don't know what you noobs want. If you are looking for attention, I can tell you I don't have a long span. But, what I do have are a very particular set of skills; skills I have acquired over a very large amount of posts. Skills that make me a nightmare for people like you. If you drop this now, that'll be the end of it. I will not Google you, I will not photochop you. But if you don't, I will search the webnets for you, I will find you, and I will pwn you."
AYoDread is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 17 Old 05-20-18, 08:57 Thread Starter
AYoDread
Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
AYoDread's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 317
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Things did not go as planned at all. I won't go into all of that.


The bottom right valve cover bolt is being blocked by the frame. How are you guys gaining access to it?


There are screw holes that stick out maybe 1/8 inch from the frame that are for the right said firing bracket. The valve cover bolts are 8mm, I have both a short and long but neither can seat all the way in.



I tried lowering the engine, to no avail only to realize I need another tool. I need a "Frame Adjuster Tool M16" in order to remove the frame alignment bolts that are holding my engine in place.

"I don't know who you noobs are. I don't know what you noobs want. If you are looking for attention, I can tell you I don't have a long span. But, what I do have are a very particular set of skills; skills I have acquired over a very large amount of posts. Skills that make me a nightmare for people like you. If you drop this now, that'll be the end of it. I will not Google you, I will not photochop you. But if you don't, I will search the webnets for you, I will find you, and I will pwn you."

Last edited by AYoDread; 05-20-18 at 09:03.
AYoDread is offline  
post #13 of 17 Old 05-20-18, 10:11
munch
Senior Member
 
munch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1,179
Thanks: 17
Thanked 50 Times in 31 Posts
You dont need the tool. That adjuster should move somewhat freely, you can probably use a really fat flathead or a prybar to turn it.

You should be able to get the valve cover out without moving the engine.
munch is offline  
 
post #14 of 17 Old 05-20-18, 11:05
MGFChapin
Senior Member
 
MGFChapin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 7,695
Thanks: 81
Thanked 330 Times in 302 Posts
Garage
You get to that last bolt by cutting an allen key's short end even shorter. No need to drop the engine.
MGFChapin is offline  
post #15 of 17 Old 05-20-18, 20:32 Thread Starter
AYoDread
Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
AYoDread's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 317
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Thanks and you both are correct. No special tool required and no need to lower the engine. This weekend did not go as planned, and I am burned out. Basically all I had time to do was pull the fairings, tank, airbox and loosen up all the valve cover bolts.



I have an 87 piece Bluepoint Allen socket set and forgot I have regular Allen wrenches. I have not use them in years! Got the bolt off but thats all I had time to do this weekend. Hopefully tomorrow is a fast but short day at work and I can clock out at noon then start the valve clearance check. I will post tools I used as well as Parts I needed along the way.



Step 1. Plan to work on the bike on a day you have nothing else planned.
Step 2. Plan for things to not go as planned. lol

"I don't know who you noobs are. I don't know what you noobs want. If you are looking for attention, I can tell you I don't have a long span. But, what I do have are a very particular set of skills; skills I have acquired over a very large amount of posts. Skills that make me a nightmare for people like you. If you drop this now, that'll be the end of it. I will not Google you, I will not photochop you. But if you don't, I will search the webnets for you, I will find you, and I will pwn you."
AYoDread is offline  
post #16 of 17 Old 05-26-18, 13:34 Thread Starter
AYoDread
Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
AYoDread's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 317
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Just need my math double checked before I pick up the shims. To me all my intake valve clearances are in spec and all of my exhaust are out of spec.


Cylinder #1 Cylinder #2 Cylinder # 3
Intake 1 0.152mm 0.152mm 0.127mm
Intake 2 0.178mm 0.178mm 0.127mm
Exhaust 1 0.229mm 0.229mm 0.229mm
Exhaust 2 0.229mm 0.229mm 0.356mm


Intake 1 = Intake Camshaft Lobe #1 starting at the camshaft gear side going in the opposite direction.


Spec = Intake = 0.10mm – 0.20mm
Exhaust = 0.275mm – 0.325mm




Cylinder #1 Cylinder #2 Cylinder #3
Exhaust 1 (238) 2.31mm (240) 2.37mm (232) 2.25mm
Exhaust 2 (232) 2.26mm (232) 2.25mm (230) 2.21mm


In Parenthesis is the number stamped on the shim, the thickness is what I measured with 2 different digital Micrometers (Digital Calipers)


Formula I am using A= (B-C) + D
A= New Shim Thickness
B = Recorded Valve Clearance
C = Specified Valve Clearance
D = Old Shim Thickness


C1E1= Cylinder #1 Exhaust Lobe #1
C3E2 + Cylinder # 2 Exhaust Lobe # 2


Size Shim needed for each valve

C1E1 = 2.239mm
C1E2 = 2.189mm
C2E1 = 2.299mm
C2E2 = 2.179mm
C3E1 = 2.179mm
C3E2 = 2.266mm
p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }

"I don't know who you noobs are. I don't know what you noobs want. If you are looking for attention, I can tell you I don't have a long span. But, what I do have are a very particular set of skills; skills I have acquired over a very large amount of posts. Skills that make me a nightmare for people like you. If you drop this now, that'll be the end of it. I will not Google you, I will not photochop you. But if you don't, I will search the webnets for you, I will find you, and I will pwn you."
AYoDread is offline  
post #17 of 17 Old 06-02-18, 10:10 Thread Starter
AYoDread
Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
AYoDread's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 317
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Sorry for the late reply my Internet browser froze when I hit submit, so I lost interest in typing this all out again. Valve Clearance check and adjustment complete, all went well. Rode 136 trouble free miles that day. My new manual camshaft tension was a little too tight, this caused the starter to sound weird. Also I need to readjust my tune on my bike.


Overall and easy job but its VERY TEDIOUS!! The constant checking and rechecking and rotating the engine over and over and over again. If you make adjustments you have to do over again, so you have to keep rechecking your math as well. I’m paying a shop to do this next time lol!


Some things I learned


1. Get a helper for tedious jobs. As fatigue, hunger, boredom set in, you go from “Lets take my time and do this right” to “I just want to be done with this” It’s good to have someone there to catch little things you will miss.


2. It’s a 2 day job. While in there I found other things that needed to be addressed. All small and easy to fix but while the bike was a part it had to be done, which cost more time.


3. Removing the throttle cable bracket made getting the valve cover in and out a lot easier.


4. Even if you have Smog Block off plates, its the bolts that will get caught on the frame when trying to remove the valve cover


5. Lowering the radiator allows the checking of the valve clearances on the exhaust cam so much easier. It’s just 3 bolts, removal is not required


6. 6 year old bike with 17,312 miles its just better to replace the gaskets. It’s not so much the mileage but the amount of heat cycles these gaskets go through that dries them out. I spent $80 in parts, just replace them.


7. TDC on #1 and mark the Timing Chain with a paint marker. Mark 2 links on the camshafts and 1 link on the crankshaft. When reinstalling the camshaft cradle sometimes the cams move. Even with a camshaft locking tool, I would still mark the chain links, things happen.


8. Us a small but strong magnet on the cam buckets and place them dead center so they pick up the shim as well. Shims are the size of Altoid Mints and if they fall into the engine they will put a sizeable hole in your wallet.


9. Buy 5qts of oil. ½Qt was used to lube parts I removed, like the camshaft and I poured some on the lobes after making my adjustments before spinning the motor over, also some oil was poured on the chain. Debris is going to get inside the engine, dust, pieces of your hair, a crumb from what ever you were eating lol! I would let it run for a bit to make sure she was good then let her sit so everything drains to the pan and then change the oil.


10. Make a short video of your bike running and going through some RPM ranges before tearing it down. After this type of repair you are going notice ever single little sound this bike makes and start second guessing yourself. If you got this far and you are reading this, I know what face you are making right now lol!
p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }

"I don't know who you noobs are. I don't know what you noobs want. If you are looking for attention, I can tell you I don't have a long span. But, what I do have are a very particular set of skills; skills I have acquired over a very large amount of posts. Skills that make me a nightmare for people like you. If you drop this now, that'll be the end of it. I will not Google you, I will not photochop you. But if you don't, I will search the webnets for you, I will find you, and I will pwn you."
AYoDread is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Triumph675.Net Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome