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post #79 of Old 01-15-20, 14:46
keeena
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expatbrit View Post
Anyone have issues with a GP shift setup and downshifts? I had to rotate the shift actuator off the peened dot and towards the rear of the bike to get enough forward motion on the shifter to downshift before the rod between pedal and bell crank hits the main pivot. Spacers are in place, but it just wouldn’t travel enough.

Rotating it that way it will shift, but I lose the nice 90 degree. Maybe a longer shift rod? I am using an 8.5” Woodcraft, since I don’t have the OEM. Track only set up on a 2009 that had a set of Arrows that weren’t happy.
What year Daytona?

I had same problems as others with my new-to-me 2012 D675R track bike, GP shift. I ended up making my own shift rod in order to have the shifter at the height I wanted. As others noted: getting the shift rod attached more towards the bottom of the attachment point (e.g. closer to the footpeg) helps a lot.

My shift actuator appears to be rotated anti-clockwise 1 notch on the shift spline relative to the factory dimple. So if you're not aligned with the dimple I wouldn't worry about it. The 90* angle at the actuator is still important, so I think you're right-on in terms of maybe needing a different shift rod. My shift rod is roughly 150mm (NOT including threaded portion) and I have the factory QS. I can measure full length of shift rod if you want; would just have to remove it to do so. LMK. My shift rod is 90* at the actuator but not quite 90* at the rearset. It works great so I've left it like this for now.
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