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Bike wont start after getting it home

2K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  AYoDread 
#1 ·
So I picked up a 2006 Daytona 675 last Saturday and when I test rode it everything seemed fine, it started and ran but after loading it up and driving 2 hours home it wont start anymore, the battery is good, i changed the plugs and it's getting spark, when I crank it over it just smells really rich and occasionally fires but doesnt idle, could this be a sensor or something? I dont see how it could be tune related since it rode fine when I test rode it but I have a obdII cable in the mail so I'll be able to use tune ecu. Any suggestions are appreciated

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#2 ·
How do you know the battery is good? Did you put a voltmeter on it with the bike off and when it was running?

Most likely culprits are charging system (stator or regulator/rectifier, they both are common failure points) or crank position sensor (CPS). A brief search here will get you all the info you need to test both of those out.
 
#3 ·
Mine was doing the same thing last fall and the battery checked out good for volts. After chasing it for two weeks I took the battery to Batteries Plus and they said the battery showed good volts (always on the Battery Tender), but it had a faulty cell so under load it wasn't no where near the amps it needed. New battery solved it all.
 
#4 ·
This isn't really of any help but my used 2014 675r was doing that exact same thing occasionally when it rained. I found some spliced wires under the rear seat that were exposed and somewhat loose. I re-spliced them with environmental splices and haven't a repeat. Good luck 👍
 
#6 ·
After a week or so of fussing with obd connectors that didnt work I was finally able to pull the codes, the only one that seems to be showing up is a P1628 code, any input on what this is or how it could be causing my starting issue would be appreciated, thanks!

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#10 ·
Next steps?

First post. I'm the OP's dad, and have spent some time with the bike this week. Pulled the fuel rail last night and cranked the bike. Good fuel spray out of all three injectors. Good spark in all three plugs. Sputters at times when cranking but no start. Even with starter fluid, no start. I get about 210 ohms of resistance on the CPS plug (if I tested the right one). I even loaded two other tunes from TuneECU for his VIN range. Same thing. All TuneECU diagnostics come back with no errors. Changed out the gas. Battery volts show good but still keeping a 2A charger (not a trickle charger) on while cranking. Still nothing.

Nash and I are running out of things to try. It ran fine when he test drove it. Brought it home, unloaded it from his truck, and it won't start. !@#$#@!!

Any other suggestions??
 
#11 ·
Not sure what you mean by “tried different tubes” but the bike will not run if the pump is not putting up enough pressure. Have you popped off the fuel line and run the pump? Have you pulled and injector and seen if it was spraying properly? If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you may want to try that. The other culprit in your fuel system could be a clogged fuel filter. Changing that usually involves the removal of your tank and pump, it’s fairly invasive but is considered routine maintenance.
 
#12 ·
Not sure what you mean by "tried different tubes" but the bike will not run if the pump is not putting up enough pressure. Have you popped off the fuel line and run the pump? Have you pulled and injector and seen if it was spraying properly? If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you may want to try that. The other culprit in your fuel system could be a clogged fuel filter. Changing that usually involves the removal of your tank and pump, it's fairly invasive but is considered routine maintenance.
He meant "tunes", as in programming tunes on the ECU. Not sure if you saw my post above but, yes, I pulled the fuel rail and all three injectors are spraying good. Has good spark in each of the three plugs as well. This one is confusing me. Looking more into the cps now...
 
#14 ·
Your CPS and stator were going to be my next suggestion. If your CPS is going bad, the bike may run fine one ride and not at all the next, then start right up again the next day. I would typically check that first but your fuel pump code doesn’t seem to match that theory.

If your fuel pressure is low or you have a weak pump but your injectors are still spraying well, most likely you would still idle but wouldn’t have much power when you revved it or tried to ride.
 
#16 ·
No, it does the same thing with starting fluid. An occasional sputter. That's why my thoughts are leaning more toward the cps as well. Fuel and fire, but at the wrong time. I'll see what I can get done this weekend. Would love to get it running for my son. Gotta suck to get a new bike, get it home, and then it won't start. !@#$#@!!
 
#17 ·
Check compression. if you have fuel and spark then air or it could be timing. You have changed tunes, and you say the bike sputters then dies.

I'm leaning towards compression issue because it won't start with starter fluid, it starts and dies, and I heard there are a few tricks to make a bike run good for a short time until it's traded in or sold.


I do wonder, when you 1st test rode the bike was it cold? and did you ever get a chance to do a cold start up with the bike?
 
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