How To: Replace Counter Sprocket Seal
I replaced my counter sprocket seal using tips from another member (simingx) and watching some videos on YouTube. Here's simingx's post from the ==update==Is there a How to for the Countershaft sprocket oil seal on 675R ? thread.
1. Remove sprocket cover (I keep mine off so this step was skipped).
2. Bend the washer tab away from the sprocket nut. Tab washer can be used again by bending in another place.
3. Remove the sprocket nut (apply pressure on the rear brake to break the torque, NEVER REMOVE SPROCKET NUT IN GEAR).
4. Remove the tab washer.
5. Loosen chain to give slack to remove the counter sprocket.
6. Remove counter sprocket.
7. Drill some holes in the seal. Be careful when doing so not to damage anything behind it. The bearings have a cover to it so if the drill bit goes all the way through, you'll hit that and not the bearings.
8. Thread in some self tapping screws.
9. Remove seal by pulling on screws.
1. Clean the area behind the seal for any metal shavings that may have gone through.
2. Apply some grease on the seal.
3. Press the seal into casing evenly. Be patient and take your time or you'll damage the seal and have to replace it again. I got it started by pressing it in by hand, then using the bottom of the handle (which is rubber) of my hammer to push it in. Once it was in majority of the way, I used the PVC pipe to push in the rest of the way.
4. Clean the area of all the lube/dirt build up.
5. Install sprocket.
6. Install tab washer. My old one was already used twice from the dealership replacing the CS Seal and probably could've been re-used but I opted for a new one.
7. Install sprocket nut.
8. Install chain, remove slack, and torque to sprocket nut to 85 Nm (63 ft lbs) [apply pressure on rear brake to torque].
9. Bend tab on tab washer. I'm sure there's different methods, but I used channel locks to bend the tab.
10. Adjust slack on chain - 1.1" to 1.5" and torque rear axle nut to 110 Nm (81 ft lbs).
Here's some pics of what it looked like behind the sprocket after I removed it; and some comparison pics of the OEM seal and the shaft seal I used. Note that there's two aftermarket seals in the pic. I ended up using both because I f'd up on the first one, reason I say take your time. First one I just tried to get in quick and damaged the lip on the upper half because it didn't go in evenly.
The last pic is the OEM seal that was installed by the dealership. The lip is damaged so no wonder it leaked again; this is probably the same thing they did the first time.
Awsome how to!!! Thanks for sharing!
I've not done this project, but when I've replaced other seals I found it helped to put the seal in the freezer for a few hours before I installed. Depending on where the seal goes, one can also use a heat gun to heat the spot the seal slips into - be careful though. A cold/shrunk seal and a warm/expanded location help the seal go in easier/with less force.
I actually thought about freezing the seal, but didn't want to affect the viton for the longevity of the seal. I didn't have any means to heat up the case neither, so had to install it as it was.
Ah - I didn't realize the seals were sensitive to cold. Thanks for the warning. I know some are sensitive to excessive heat. Anyway - was just trying to offer an idea, certainly not a criticism of your very helpful thread.
Very awesome how to Easbaysav. You should be leak free, how is the bike?
If anyone needs this same exact seal please let me know. I bought it for $32 that's with tax and shipping but Didnt need it due to my leak was the case cover. I'll ship it to you for $25. PayPal accepted. Pm me your address if interested.
This is a brand new very high temperature Viton CS oil seal. You can see the difference in thickness from the oem pic.
Thanks, my bike has been good so far. It's been roughly 200-400 miles since I replaced the seal, but weather has been shitty the past few weeks so I haven't been riding.
I changed the seal out yesterday and it was a pain. It is nerve racking to tear into a new bike. I had to take the edge off the case by giving it a micro bevel with a needle file. I peeled the first seal because of the case and the fact that one side is always in farther then the other. I used all of easbaysav's procedure and worked the second in by hand very very slowly. The 1.5" coupling and plug should not be used to drive the seal until the very end just like easbaysav said. I hope it doesn't leak because the bike will be gone, too many leaks in one year. Mine was leaking from the center collar, the stock seal is weak with hardly any tension, compared to the new seal.
Oh ya, thanks easbaysav
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