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-   -   Street Triple to Daytona wiring harness transplant (https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=152906)

MakinBeer 07-21-14 13:51

Street Triple to Daytona wiring harness transplant
 
After damaging some wiring on my bike after a small lowside at the track, I started looking into replacing the harness with one from a Street Triple. I saw three advantages:

- The wiring is almost entirely within the frame, preventing this type of damage in the future
- The fuse box and relays are relocated to the top of the airbox, eliminating the problem of securing them within track bodywork. It also makes fitting the upper easier as there is not a mass of wire next to the radiator filler neck.
- R/R relocation, solving the problem of what the hell to do with it. Mine was previously velcroed inside the upper fairing. Also, a chance to upgrade to a MOSFET R/R

Since I haven't been able to track down a used race ECU and harness, I figured this would do for now. This is also much less expensive. My bike is a 2012 675R, so in my research I found that any 09+ ST harness should do, as they would have the QS connector. I can't speak to compatibility for previous generation interchange (06-08), but I imagine you should stay within your own.

Initial observations:
- The ST has no provisions for EXUP or intake flapper, so these will need to be disabled at the very least. Mine are removed.
- You pretty much have to relocate the R/R, I chose to go with the ST stock location.
- The ST positive battery cable is 4-6" longer than the Daytona. I will probably separate and re-use my original
- The barometric pressure sensor will have to be relocated somewhere to the rear of the bike.
- The fall detection switch is relocated to the top of the airbox, but the bracket is already there.
- Make sure the airbox cover has the bolt holes to mount the relay/fuse box bracket


I procured the following:
- 1 2010 ST wiring harness with relay bracket
- 1 ST MOSFET R/R and bracket
- 2 M6 1.0x20mm stainless hex cap screws
- 2 M5 0.80x12mm stainless hex pan screws


Stock harness removed. The starter cable and sensor pigtails/sub-harnesses are left in place.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../IMAG04561.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../IMAG04551.jpg

R/R and bracket installed. Use the M6 bolts here. I was swapping the shock out anyway. I don't know if it needs to be removed for this, but it surely made it easier.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../IMAG04601.jpg
After bolting the bracket up, I discovered there isn't enough room to get the connectors down through the opening between the bracket and the engine, so make sure they are dropped down and in position first.

Connected the harness ground and battery negative cable, secured this section of wiring under the retainer:
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../IMAG04611.jpg


This is a work in progress, I will add to it as I work on it. I got further than the pictures show, but discovered one ECU connector had a broken clip. I did, however, successfully operate the starter and hope to have it fired by the weekend. :smile:

Ruby Racing 07-22-14 20:02

Interesting.

Subscribed. :thumbup:

MakinBeer 07-30-14 19:42

Small update on this. Fired the bike last night, thus confirming that the harnesses are pin-for-pin compatible. Next steps are removing unnecessary connectors (lighting, etc), finding a home for the baro sensor and final routing.

MakinBeer 08-15-14 18:14

A little progress on this, have a lot of plates spinning at the moment getting ready for a 8/23 track day.

Alarm connector permanently wired. Afterward, I cut the plug and extra wire and everything taped up nice and tidy.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../IMAG04741.jpg

I'm using this stuff to wrap the altered sections of harness. No adhesive so electrical tape residue, though I do tape the ends with a single wrap.


Barometric sensor relocated. I used a 3/4" spacer and M6 x 40mm bolt through an existing hole in the storage compartment.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../IMAG04721.jpg

Not sure if this orientation is proper, I've read the tube needs to be vertical. Anyone have any insight?

Ruby Racing 08-15-14 18:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by MakinBeer (Post 4103857)
Not sure if this orientation is proper, I've read the tube needs to be vertical. Anyone have any insight?

As soon as I saw your photo I thought "that's not how they are as standard". The two fitted on my 2006 model both have the small tube facing downwards at 6 o'clock position, not at 3 o'clock like yours. Might be worth making a little bracket to orientate it downwards. Just to be on the safe side.

MakinBeer 08-15-14 19:11

Right, I'm guessing it could possibly be fooled by airflow past it. That said, it seems like it would be more of an issue if it were facing forward (pressure) or backward (negative pressure).

Also (and I would love to get an authoritative answer on this), isn't this sensor's input only used for low speed fueling? If so, totally not an issue with this application.

MacBandit 08-16-14 01:40

Orientation doesn't matter other than it faces down to prevent moisture contamination.

The sensor is only used for adaptation. Although there is no way to turn it off in the ECU. You would have to put a resistor in it but there is no reason not to keep it.

MakinBeer 08-16-14 18:25

Cool, thanks Mac. Moisture isn't really a concern in this situation, so it should be fine.

MacBandit 08-16-14 18:28

Also consider condensation.

MakinBeer 08-17-14 01:47

SoCal, garage kept track bike. :)


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