|Topic Review (Newest First)|
They are rivets and would need to be drilled out. 13/64 or 7/32 drill should do it. You basically use a drill size big enough that causes the head to separate, then push the main part of the rivet in. I'm sure there's general videos on youtube. I assume you don't have a riveting tool; could use a bolt/nut when you re-attach.
As far as the frame: while suspension/geometry specialists will sometimes bend a frame a tiny bit, I personally wouldn't try bending it. If steel: sure. Cast aluminum...nope. Your other option could be cut+weld, but i'd be suspect that the whole spar on that side might be tweaked, not just the very top bit.
That's a 06-08, right? A 09-12 frame will work too. But while they look identical, but you'll need the swingarm eccentrics which go into the frame and possibly the swingarm pivot bolt. Triumph changed the size of the eccentric and the bolt hole spacing on the eccentrics.
|beau||Also, can someone please explain to me how to extract the metal pins (pictured below) that hold the seat lock mechanism and the main fuse to the battery tray? I'm swapping trays and can't find info on how to remove them either online or in my manual.|
I had a car lock their brakes up in front of me and I was traveling too close for my skill to stop in time. I gradually applied brakes but then inevitably locked the front to keep from hitting the car. Then the bike fell on its right side from being nearly perpendicular to the ground.
More photos attached. It appears the upper right subframe-frame attachment is 2-3mm lower than the left side - specifically it seems to be skewed where the fuel tank pivot bolt and sleeve go through the two holes above the subframe-frame attachment. The frame is level all the way up to the tank pivot bolt.
I stuck metal rods through the holes to help with perspective. All pictures with the level are true except for the last one where the level is resting on top of the fuel tank pivot bolt. If there are other angles to try let me know. Thank you.
We would love to see more angles in pictures if you can
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
|Renboy||New frame. I have a very hard time believing you'll bolt a straight subframe to that. And straightening a cast aluminum frame is a whole other mess. Sorry to say, but, you need a new frame.|
Man, what a crash. Did you lock the front brakes up or something?
If the new straight subframe fits on and measures straight and bike rides straight and handles the same then you shouldn't have to mess around with the frame. It could be that those 2 points were never level to begin with but let the experts chime in.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
|beau||More photos that wouldn’t attach to the last post. Please let me know if they’re unviewable.|
Had my first accident on the street a few days back. Didn’t hit anything, but came up on the front wheel and went over the bike and luckily landed on my feet I while the bike rolled onto the front right portion of the nosepiece and then the right side slammed down.
Drove the bike home with mainly minor cosmetic damage, the axle sliders and frame sliders did their job. However, I noticed my tail section is out of wack. I thought it was just the subframe but now that I have that off it appears the upper two subframe-frame attachment points are not level with one another while my bike is on the stand.
As you’ll see in the pictures, the tail section is bent left and the right side is bent down.
I ordered a straight subframe off eBay for cheap. But what would you all suggest I do about the bent portion of the frame itself? It appears minor and I see no indications of cracks. Would it be feasible to bend the frame back?
Thanks for reading.