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Originally Posted by keeena View Post
Awesome! Thank you so much; thatís about bloody perfect. Great reference
All numbers below are for AP rearsets on a 2012 D675R w/ QS and GP shift and setup for where I like the shift lever. YMMV.
The shift rod length I'm using is 190mm. The length between the 2 jam nuts as installed is 170mm. The length of the whole shebang (from the ball-end of the shift rod assembly to the end of the heim joint on the AP rearsets) is 293mm. I'm pretty sure all other adjustable bits are threaded as far as they can go. Looks like I'm shifted 1 notch on the shift spline to maintain the 90*, the rearset side is a bit off of 90*. Everything works great. Hope this helps!
Itís a gen2 ó 2009 with a 2012 engine, etc. I suspect I have too short a rod; Iím just trying to figure out a good length. At 8.5Ē and no QS the pedal is too high and was actually hitting the frame of the rearset. I thought it was the bearing.
If you have a 150mm rod I think i have the spec for the size of the QS; if you have the total spec thatíd be great if you donít have to dismantle the thing!
Originally Posted by Expatbrit View Post
I had same problems as others with my new-to-me 2012 D675R track bike, GP shift. I ended up making my own shift rod in order to have the shifter at the height I wanted. As others noted: getting the shift rod attached more towards the bottom of the attachment point (e.g. closer to the footpeg) helps a lot.
My shift actuator appears to be rotated anti-clockwise 1 notch on the shift spline relative to the factory dimple. So if you're not aligned with the dimple I wouldn't worry about it. The 90* angle at the actuator is still important, so I think you're right-on in terms of maybe needing a different shift rod. My shift rod is roughly 150mm (NOT including threaded portion) and I have the factory QS. I can measure full length of shift rod if you want; would just have to remove it to do so. LMK. My shift rod is 90* at the actuator but not quite 90* at the rearset. It works great so I've left it like this for now.
Attack Performance Rearset: Master Thread
Anyone have issues with a GP shift setup and downshifts? I had to rotate the shift actuator off the peened dot and towards the rear of the bike to get enough forward motion on the shifter to downshift before the rod between pedal and bell crank hits the main pivot. Spacers are in place, but it just wouldnít travel enough.
Rotating it that way it will shift, but I lose the nice 90 degree. Maybe a longer shift rod? I am using an 8.5Ē Woodcraft, since I donít have the OEM. Track only set up on a 2009 that had a set of Arrows that werenít happy.
::Posting this here as well as in the Street Triple section of the forum::
Installed a set of Attack Performance rearsets so I can have GP shift on my street bike to match my Daytona (track bike)
HUGE thanks to the knowledge on this thread and Rookie28's heads up that I'd need to fabricate a little hanger bracket for the SC Project conic.
Note: I opted to go with a hydraulic brake light switch:
K&S Technologies part #12-0010 which is a 10mm x 1.25 switch.
Summit Racing carries them if you wish to go that route.
You will need to cut the connector off the stock switch and crimp it onto the new one. Other than that, thanks to the forum I didn't encounter any issues. (Go team!)
That would suck, especially when pushing at that level.
I can't say I've never had an issue with having to put a blow torch to something to have some bolts removed due to red threadlocker, but it's happened to me on a few occasions. Twice with red and once with green, all installed from the factory/manufacturer. Ended up taking those parts to a shop to get the rest of the bolts extracted... heat was used all times as well.
I put a Woodcraft shift lever on my ST3 and a bolt that was pre-installed came loose even though I checked it to make sure it was tight. Put some blue threadlocker on it and haven't had an issue since. I probably use more blue threadlocker than necessary, but it hasn't been an issue for me yet. Also used blue on a few bolts of my engine cover bolts on my D675 and those haven't come loose since.
Red is for permanent applications and will be difficult to remove if "plenty" is used and left untouched for a long period of time. If choosing to use red threadlocker, I would recommend to use it sparingly on bolts that will be removed/installed often.
Attack Performance advised me to use red and red solved the problems.
(I typically use red on everything and have never once needed heat to break a bolt)
I even siliconed my shift lever bolt in place. Kinda gets frustrating to lose your ability to shift midrace.
Originally Posted by Victor Ward View Post
Blue threadlocker is sufficient and is all I used on my rearsets. Red is used for permanent applications and would require heat for removal, otherwise it would be a PITA to remove.
Originally Posted by Victor Ward View Post
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