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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-10-20 11:41
Derrick Wang
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeena View Post
Try going up 1 or 2 holes on the rearset side and see if that helps. Have you taken the rearsets off and made sure everything is clean and not binding?

Mine is definitely not buttery! It's hit or miss going from 1-to-N, but pretty easy going from 2-to-N; much better than when i originally got the bike from the PO.
I'll give it a shot. Everything looks find as is - parts are clean. Thanks for the response!
08-08-20 21:44
keeena
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrick Wang View Post
Hi keeena,

Would you mind providing a little more insight on what I'm missing?

Tonight, I did everything I could find on fixing this issue -
1. Installied a Woodcraft 7.5" shift rod and had the distance between the 2 nuts at 170mm like you
2. Made sure it's at a 90degree angle
3. Installed a shift support brace
4. Have the shift rod connected to the peg on the lowest hole

It is finding neutral slightly easier than before but not "like butter" like others have mentioned. What am I missing? Thanks
Try going up 1 or 2 holes on the rearset side and see if that helps. Have you taken the rearsets off and made sure everything is clean and not binding?

Mine is definitely not buttery! It's hit or miss going from 1-to-N, but pretty easy going from 2-to-N; much better than when i originally got the bike from the PO.
08-05-20 22:14
Derrick Wang
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeena View Post
The pic explains it. If you setup the shift arm / shift rod to 90*, that would pull the pedal artificially high and probably reduce the pedal travel to the point of not being able to downshift. I didn't know W/C had a 190mm rod - that will most likely work perfect for you (same setup as mine).
Hi keeena,

Would you mind providing a little more insight on what I'm missing?

Tonight, I did everything I could find on fixing this issue -
1. Installied a Woodcraft 7.5" shift rod and had the distance between the 2 nuts at 170mm like you
2. Made sure it's at a 90degree angle
3. Installed a shift support brace
4. Have the shift rod connected to the peg on the lowest hole

It is finding neutral slightly easier than before but not "like butter" like others have mentioned. What am I missing? Thanks
07-16-20 10:54
Derrick Wang
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeena View Post
The pic explains it. If you setup the shift arm / shift rod to 90*, that would pull the pedal artificially high and probably reduce the pedal travel to the point of not being able to downshift. I didn't know W/C had a 190mm rod - that will most likely work perfect for you (same setup as mine).
Gotcha - it seems like it might take 1-2 weeks for delivery. So I'll follow-up once I get it installed. I appreciate the help, brother.
07-15-20 23:15
keeena
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrick Wang View Post
Right now, it's setup with 110+ degrees as that seems to be the only way to allow the bike to shift up and down. As mentioned, when setting it to 90 degrees, the bike will shift up the gears but will not downshift. This is set up from the previous owner with GP shift and on the oem shift link. Currently, finding neutral is a pain. I just want to be able to find neutral easily but I don't know if there's a way to make it happen with the oem shift link or if i need aftermarket one. I tried to loosen the 2 lock nuts on opposite ends of the shift link but the one to the left is really locked in place and I'm afraid I'll break it from applying too much force
The pic explains it. If you setup the shift arm / shift rod to 90*, that would pull the pedal artificially high and probably reduce the pedal travel to the point of not being able to downshift. I didn't know W/C had a 190mm rod - that will most likely work perfect for you (same setup as mine).
07-15-20 21:54
Derrick Wang
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeena View Post
Mine (the 190mm rod) is not the OEM shift rod; I made mine to suit positioning and to get near 90* at the joints. The one originally on my bike was 180mm but I have no idea if it was OEM or not.

The linkage at 90* (shift rod tangential to the shift shaft at the linkage point) is so you can get the most rotation of the shift shaft for a given shift rod movement. If you're anywhere near 90* at the shift shaft, then it would mean your rearsets are moving the shift rod one direction farther than in the other. Or maybe you're out of travel in one direction w/in your rearset setup? Post a pic.
I read through this entire thread and came upon others mentioning Woodcraft 07-0750 as the shift rod to get so I ordered it just now. Crossing fingers this will resolve the hard neutral issue.
07-15-20 16:55
Derrick Wang Right now, it's setup with 110+ degrees as that seems to be the only way to allow the bike to shift up and down. As mentioned, when setting it to 90 degrees, the bike will shift up the gears but will not downshift. This is set up from the previous owner with GP shift and on the oem shift link. Currently, finding neutral is a pain. I just want to be able to find neutral easily but I don't know if there's a way to make it happen with the oem shift link or if i need aftermarket one. I tried to loosen the 2 lock nuts on opposite ends of the shift link but the one to the left is really locked in place and I'm afraid I'll break it from applying too much force
07-15-20 13:07
keeena
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrick Wang View Post
Are you using the OEM shift rod?
I also have a 2012 675R with the attack rear set and GP shift. The only difference is that if I set it at 90 degrees, it seems to be stuck with only being able to upshift and not downshift.
Mine (the 190mm rod) is not the OEM shift rod; I made mine to suit positioning and to get near 90* at the joints. The one originally on my bike was 180mm but I have no idea if it was OEM or not.

The linkage at 90* (shift rod tangential to the shift shaft at the linkage point) is so you can get the most rotation of the shift shaft for a given shift rod movement. If you're anywhere near 90* at the shift shaft, then it would mean your rearsets are moving the shift rod one direction farther than in the other. Or maybe you're out of travel in one direction w/in your rearset setup? Post a pic.
07-15-20 11:53
Derrick Wang
Quote:
Originally Posted by keeena View Post
All numbers below are for AP rearsets on a 2012 D675R w/ QS and GP shift and setup for where I like the shift lever. YMMV.

The shift rod length I'm using is 190mm. The length between the 2 jam nuts as installed is 170mm. The length of the whole shebang (from the ball-end of the shift rod assembly to the end of the heim joint on the AP rearsets) is 293mm. I'm pretty sure all other adjustable bits are threaded as far as they can go. Looks like I'm shifted 1 notch on the shift spline to maintain the 90*, the rearset side is a bit off of 90*. Everything works great. Hope this helps!









Are you using the OEM shift rod?
I also have a 2012 675R with the attack rear set and GP shift. The only difference is that if I set it at 90 degrees, it seems to be stuck with only being able to upshift and not downshift.
07-15-20 11:52
Derrick Wang Are you using the OEM shift rod?
I also have a 2012 675R with the attack rear set and GP shift. The only difference is that if I set it at 90 degrees, it seems to be stuck with only being able to upshift and not downshift.
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