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Thread: what did you do to your 675 today???? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 16:42
MGFChapin Ripped out this steaming pile of sh¡t and flashed my ECU



Finished reassembly after almost 8 months. More on the saga here:
https://www.triumph675.net/forum/sho...=215082&page=6
05-26-20 22:37
Renboy Remove the mounting screws for the radiator and let it hang. It's so much easier checking clearances with it out of the way. I've never loosened the throttle bodies to remove the valve cover and never had any clearance issues. You do need to remove the two black chambers on the valve cover though so that you can slide it out.
05-26-20 21:10
hiimchad
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobs675 View Post
I noticed you unbolt the intake, have you tried just taking off the throttle bracket instead? Also did you drop/unbolt the radiator?

Lastly - any hints on making sure it goes back together right? All of my exhaust valves are between .15 and .25 assuming that I measured correctly so I'm guessing it's off with the cams next.

Do you mean the throttle bodies? It’s easier to get the valve cover out after loosening up the clamps and moving the TBs out of the way inmy opinion. Less likely to scratch it too. Also, I did not move the radiator. I bent my feeler gauges at 90 degree angles to make it easier to get them in there.

If you have exhaust valves with only .15mm of clearance that’s massively out of spec. I would definitely double-check your measurements. The gauge should go in without a lot of effort, but feel a bit tight on the way in and out. If you have to shove it in there with a lot of force and have trouble getting it back out, try again with the next smallest gauge, and conversely try going up a size if it goes in very easily. Spec for 2006-08 bikes for the exhaust valve clearance is 0.275-0.325mm and 2009+ is 0.325-0.375. Just follow the shop manual, torque settings and torque sequencing on the cam cap to a T and you’ll be good. Also, be sure your timing is set correctly before you finishing torquing down the cam cap. It’s pretty straightforward, just take your time, follow the manual, and you’ll do fine.


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05-26-20 15:56
bobs675
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiimchad View Post
Man, I always suspected that would be an issue down the road with the Sato's. Sorry to see that happened to you. Glad I traded mine out for some Attacks, and recommend you do the same after you replace the shift spindle. IIRC you need to remove the clutch and a few other things behind it, but it doesn't require you to drop the motor and split the cases. There's a procedure for it in the shop manual. Check out the pics a few posts before yours in this thread by Jbaltus666 to get an idea of what you'd be looking at.



I re-did a valve adjustment I had spent an entire weekend on at the beginning of this month. The cam cap was overtorqued from the factory I suspect (bike was just under 12K miles), as I had to brute force each of the 16 bolts to break them loose and there is some pitting on the cover near the bolt holes..

Anyway, I checked it the first time with it like that, not knowing it was on too tight, then took it all apart, swapped the shims I thought I needed to, put it back together, and different valves were out of spec. I did it again the next day, but there was one exhaust valve I just couldn't quite get to sit right. It was .38mm, and if I went down one shim size in my Hot Cams kit, it would be too tight for the .33mm feeler gauge. I set it back to .38mm and called it a day, since I was going to need to wait for a shim and had a track day coming up fast.

Ran the track day last weekend, everything went great, and I finally got the shim in the mail I needed earlier this week, so I finally tore it all down again and got it right. It went much faster the third time in a month!

I noticed you unbolt the intake, have you tried just taking off the throttle bracket instead? Also did you drop/unbolt the radiator?

Lastly - any hints on making sure it goes back together right? All of my exhaust valves are between .15 and .25 assuming that I measured correctly so I'm guessing it's off with the cams next.
05-26-20 08:10
siq75
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiimchad View Post
If does not come out with the shift detent, but that needs to come out to get to it IIRC. I only have experience splitting a Daytona motor once over a year ago, so the particulars escape me. Motor should not need to come out though. Hopefully someone a little more knowledgable will chime in.

I would order a new one if it isn’t that expensive.

And thanks, my cams weren’t looking the hottest, so we’ll see how they’re looking next time I take it apart, probably in another 3-6k miles just to check.


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i decided to try to remove the gear change shaft from a spare gen1 engine i have in the garage with only 5k miles on it. the flywheel doesnt come out, its in behind the cases.

so im f"*ked, the engine needs to be removed and split to replace the broken gear change shaft!
05-24-20 13:10
hiimchad
Quote:
Originally Posted by siq75 View Post
yea this blows. i was getting nervous because the shop manual says to remove the engine and split the cases, i was like no way! lol

the manual doesnt go into much detail at all for the gear change shaft. does the "detent arm" come out with the shaft, or does that come off beforehand? the manual isn't too clear about this.

im not sure if this is satos fault, but they do sell the shift spindle holder, not sure if that would have prevented this. my guess is the shaft was weak from when the bike fell over one day when i parked it in the dirt. the bike never hit the ground, my old helmet stopped the fall, somehow it got jammed between the ground and the shifter. it did bend and break that black shift change arm you see there in the pic though. i replaced it at that time.

that stinks about your cams cap being overtightened from factory, guess their automated torque wrench had a hangover that day lol glad you got it all squared away. my valves are due to be adjusted in about another 500 miles, so ill be digging back in there again.

edit: should i buy a new gear change shaft, or could i het away with a used one?


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If does not come out with the shift detent, but that needs to come out to get to it IIRC. I only have experience splitting a Daytona motor once over a year ago, so the particulars escape me. Motor should not need to come out though. Hopefully someone a little more knowledgable will chime in.

I would order a new one if it isn’t that expensive.

And thanks, my cams weren’t looking the hottest, so we’ll see how they’re looking next time I take it apart, probably in another 3-6k miles just to check.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
05-24-20 08:46
siq75
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiimchad View Post
Man, I always suspected that would be an issue down the road with the Sato's. Sorry to see that happened to you. Glad I traded mine out for some Attacks, and recommend you do the same after you replace the shift spindle. IIRC you need to remove the clutch and a few other things behind it, but it doesn't require you to drop the motor and split the cases. There's a procedure for it in the shop manual. Check out the pics a few posts before yours in this thread by Jbaltus666 to get an idea of what you'd be looking at.



I re-did a valve adjustment I had spent an entire weekend on at the beginning of this month. The cam cap was overtorqued from the factory I suspect (bike was just under 12K miles), as I had to brute force each of the 16 bolts to break them loose and there is some pitting on the cover near the bolt holes..

Anyway, I checked it the first time with it like that, not knowing it was on too tight, then took it all apart, swapped the shims I thought I needed to, put it back together, and different valves were out of spec. I did it again the next day, but there was one exhaust valve I just couldn't quite get to sit right. It was .38mm, and if I went down one shim size in my Hot Cams kit, it would be too tight for the .33mm feeler gauge. I set it back to .38mm and called it a day, since I was going to need to wait for a shim and had a track day coming up fast.

Ran the track day last weekend, everything went great, and I finally got the shim in the mail I needed earlier this week, so I finally tore it all down again and got it right. It went much faster the third time in a month!

yea this blows. i was getting nervous because the shop manual says to remove the engine and split the cases, i was like no way! lol

the manual doesnt go into much detail at all for the gear change shaft. does the "detent arm" come out with the shaft, or does that come off beforehand? the manual isn't too clear about this.

im not sure if this is satos fault, but they do sell the shift spindle holder, not sure if that would have prevented this. my guess is the shaft was weak from when the bike fell over one day when i parked it in the dirt. the bike never hit the ground, my old helmet stopped the fall, somehow it got jammed between the ground and the shifter. it did bend and break that black shift change arm you see there in the pic though. i replaced it at that time.

that stinks about your cams cap being overtightened from factory, guess their automated torque wrench had a hangover that day lol glad you got it all squared away. my valves are due to be adjusted in about another 500 miles, so ill be digging back in there again.

edit: should i buy a new gear change shaft, or could i het away with a used one?


Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
05-24-20 03:43
hiimchad
Quote:
Originally Posted by siq75 View Post
had my first breakdown today in 3 years of ownership. snapped my gear change shaft clean off after a few hours of riding
20200523_195328 by

is this just a matter of removing everything off of both ends and sliding the shaft out?
Man, I always suspected that would be an issue down the road with the Sato's. Sorry to see that happened to you. Glad I traded mine out for some Attacks, and recommend you do the same after you replace the shift spindle. IIRC you need to remove the clutch and a few other things behind it, but it doesn't require you to drop the motor and split the cases. There's a procedure for it in the shop manual. Check out the pics a few posts before yours in this thread by Jbaltus666 to get an idea of what you'd be looking at.



I re-did a valve adjustment I had spent an entire weekend on at the beginning of this month. The cam cap was overtorqued from the factory I suspect (bike was just under 12K miles), as I had to brute force each of the 16 bolts to break them loose and there is some pitting on the cover near the bolt holes..

Anyway, I checked it the first time with it like that, not knowing it was on too tight, then took it all apart, swapped the shims I thought I needed to, put it back together, and different valves were out of spec. I did it again the next day, but there was one exhaust valve I just couldn't quite get to sit right. It was .38mm, and if I went down one shim size in my Hot Cams kit, it would be too tight for the .33mm feeler gauge. I set it back to .38mm and called it a day, since I was going to need to wait for a shim and had a track day coming up fast.

Ran the track day last weekend, everything went great, and I finally got the shim in the mail I needed earlier this week, so I finally tore it all down again and got it right. It went much faster the third time in a month!

05-23-20 22:27
siq75 had my first breakdown today in 3 years of ownership. snapped my gear change shaft clean off after a few hours of riding
20200523_195328 by

is this just a matter of removing everything off of both ends and sliding the shaft out?
05-20-20 01:27
Hokie Finally am in the process of getting my Daytona ready to go back on the track. Been almost 2 years since the bike has even been run. Picked up some track plastics for it since I wrecked the old ones off. Gotta find some new rearsets, or at least swap back to stock ones. Whole thing needs a good cleaning, check the valve clearances, etc.
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