HOW TO: Fairing Removal - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 91 Old 02-23-06, 13:05 Thread Starter
valoflyby
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HOW TO: Fairing Removal

Folks on Dialup... I apologize in advance. I hope its worth the wait, as I saw no other way around it. (forgive me)

The removal of the fairing on the 675 is no more difficult than removing the fairings on any similarly styled Japanese sportbike. There is nothing to fear here, other than perhaps damage to components by attempting to rush the job or not understanding how the pieces go together. I am hoping that this How To provides one with enough information to perform the task should one desire.

A word of caution: This How To shows the bike on a rear stand to perform this work. It does NOT need to be on a rear stand, however it is IMPERITIVE that you be VERY careful working on the left side with the sidestand extended that you do not whack the fairing into the sidestand and scratch/damage it. Additionally, the ground clearance on that side is reduced, making it much easier to drop/drag the fairing on the ground. Perhaps putting a towel underneath would prevent damage in such an accident. Be patient, watch what you’re doing, and you should be fine.

Before we begin, let us talk about fasteners and their locations. There are five different styles of fasteners that hold the fairings together and to the chassis. You can see each of them laid out in the following picture.


The plastic fasteners (A&B) are designed such that they do not need to be “screwed” in @ the factory, but rather “pushed” in. This saves time. The plastic construction also saves weight. However, from a maintenance standpoint, they are not ideal. To remove them, you will need a Phillips-head screwdriver. Since they were pushed into position, the “threads” of the “screw” may not be engaged into the plastic. You may need to actually “tighten” the screw until it clicks, then loosen it out like a regular screw. You don’t need to remove the screw entirely from the cavity (as shown in the picture). Just loosen it until you can grab a hold of it, then pull it out.

Fasteners C-E are standard 5mm hexkey bolts, with varying colors and shoulder widths. It is important to make sure that these bolts go back into the proper locations. Hopefully I have laid out this How To with enough detail to prevent errors.

Fastener locations:



The final note on fasteners and locations is this: There are three plastic, friction-fit “nubs” that push into rubber grommets. I shall point these out as we encounter them.

Alrighty, then... let’s get to it.

REMOVAL:

1.Remove dash inlay panel. The inlay panel is held in place by two fasteners, E1 and C1. Remove both and the panel will be laying in there loosely. You can then remove it by lifting it away.


2.Once the inlay panel is removed, you will be able to see the fusebox. The fusebox is held to the fairing with a “nub” on the fairing that is friction fitted to a bracket on the fusebox. Carefully pry apart the friction fit, pushing the fusebox bracket towards the center of the bike.


3.At this time I recommend that you remove all of the “A” fasteners. There are six total, two holding the right and left fairings together @ the front lower and four holding a panel to the fairing that directs airflow through the radiator. Here is a picture of the inner panel (removed) so as to get a better idea of where the fasteners are. (They’re hard to see when the panel is installed.) {note: A6 doesn’t necessarily NEED to be removed, as it holds this panel to the nosecone. However, I’ve found that it is easier to position everything together upon reassembly if the whole thing is just removed.}


4.Once the “A” fasteners have been removed, it is time to remove the two “B” fasteners. There are two of them located on the lower back of the fairing, immediately forward of the rear tire. These do not pull out as nicely as the “A” fasteners, so it works best to loosen them up and then push them out with your thumb (WHILE YOUR FINGERS SUPPORT THE FAIRING!)

5.Once the “A&B” fasteners have been removed, it is now time to work on the “C&D” fasteners. You’ve already removed C1, so go ahead and remove C2. Fully loosen, but do not remove, bolts D1 and D3. Remove D2. The idea here is that we do not want the fairing to fall to the ground and be damaged. By leaving D1 & D3 in place, you give the fairing support while you pull apart the remaining two friction fit nubs.

6.Now it is time to pull apart the front friction fit nub. It is located just below the radiator, on the upper side of the fairing support “triangle”. When you pull this one apart, the fairings will separate at the bottom (do not be alarmed).


7.At this point, the fairing is being held in place by bolts D1 & D3 and the nub that is located at the aft, upper corner, just in front of where your shin would be if you were mounted on the bike. Remove D1 and D3. The rear of the fairing should separate from the other side at this point. Be careful! The only thing holding the fairing in place at this point is that ONE plastic nub. (photo shows nub disconnected for clarity.)


8.Very carefully pull the plastic nub from its grommet and move the fairing backwards so that the front mounting points clear the nose cone. (!!! On the LEFT side, be VERY careful maneuvering the fairing around the sidestand. !!!) Once the fairing is clear, go ahead and mount the fairing back in place w/ that final plastic nub so that you can disconnect the turnsignal wires. The turnsignal connectors just pull apart. The fairing can then be removed and set aside.





REPLACEMENT:

Replacement is essentially the removal in reverse. There’s only a couple points here that I feel need a bit of clarification.

1.When it is time to reattach the fairing lowers to each other, it is important to understand how the fairings go together. Each side has two connection points front and rear. On the LEFT side fairing, the more forward connection points of each set are higher than the rear ones. Here’s a couple of pictures to clarify. The first one shows the front of the left fairing, whereas the second shows the rear of the left fairing:



2.Because of this design, you’ll want to make sure that “one goes over the other” as the fairings come together. The front is somewhat compounded, inasmuch as that “triangle” brace also has a fitting on it so that there’s three pieces of plastic coming together in that very front hole. From top to bottom it goes: Left Fairing, Triangle, Right Fairing. Getting this together is kind-of tricky.

3.The plastic fasteners (“A” & “B”) just push in. you’ll feel them click against themselves as they tighten up.

4.Don’t forget to make sure that your turnsignal works.

*** Author assumes no liability for accuracy of information contained within as it is provided "informational" in nature. Author assumes no liability for differences between photo'd 675 and your own. Author assumes no responsibility if you scratch the crap outta your fairings b/c you rushed the job. Perform this work at your own risk.

Jeff
Current Stable:
Two Wheelers: 06 Triumph 675, 04 BMW R1150RT, 91 Suzuki VX800, 88 Honda HawkGT

Four Wheelers:05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, 02 Hyundai Accent ("The Dingy")
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post #2 of 91 Old 02-23-06, 13:24
Abzz
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Jeff many thanks that's excelent! 8)
you are not a technical author during working hours by any chance? :lol:

The older I get the faster I was!


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post #3 of 91 Old 02-23-06, 13:29 Thread Starter
valoflyby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abzz
you are not a technical author during working hours by any chance? :lol:
Close... IT Network Security Analyst. I write a *LOT* of reports, frequently to upper-level management (think Dilbert Pointy-Hair-Bosses).

Doing THIS stuff is pleasureable, as opposed to that 8-5 crap.

Jeff
Current Stable:
Two Wheelers: 06 Triumph 675, 04 BMW R1150RT, 91 Suzuki VX800, 88 Honda HawkGT

Four Wheelers:05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, 02 Hyundai Accent ("The Dingy")
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post #4 of 91 Old 02-23-06, 17:19
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When I get tired of the fairing and turn mine into a streetfighter , this post will come in very handy... Thank you!!!
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post #5 of 91 Old 02-23-06, 17:32
Rat Race
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I love these Jeff. Thanks and keep 'em coming.
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post #6 of 91 Old 02-23-06, 17:48
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Excellent stuff, V, now I just have to work out a neat way of printing this, with two pics per A4 sheet, and sticking it in bound plastic sleeves. thanks again, I'm sure many of us really appreciate your help with these. :D
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post #7 of 91 Old 03-09-06, 11:42
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Flyby,

Very nice and timely too.

Much appreciated and thanks to you!

Michael

Bling Responsibly
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post #8 of 91 Old 03-09-06, 11:51
Will
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They were laughing at me at the dealership- the first thing I looked at on the demo bike was how to take it apart. Then when my bike came in, I crawled all over it to figure out how to take it apart, too! Some things will never change.

If it runs right, I didn't tune it.
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post #9 of 91 Old 05-19-06, 05:55
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Quote:
Doing THIS stuff is pleasureable, as opposed to that 8-5 crap.
Not every day it isnt, still like my job tho...
Helps having a sweet-as boss too!

Waiting, waiting, waiting...
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post #10 of 91 Old 06-16-06, 14:19
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Thanks. That is a great help!

Daytona 675 Red(Will be Race)
Daytona 675 Graphite
Honda 05 600rr race
Honda 04 1000rr race
Honda 06 600rr
Honda 05 1800 VTX (I could go on):)
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