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How to: Change Your Coolant Guide

148K views 161 replies 87 participants last post by  Edan  
#1 ·
Tools needed:

1. Gallon of Distilled water
2. Metric sockets and socket wrench (small sized for the hose clamp)
3. Siphon
4. .63 gallon worth of coolant
5. Catch pan or container to place old coolant in.
6. small Metric wrench (for the main drain bolt)
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Don't mind the allen wrenches you don't need them...

Start off by removing your fairings. You can get away with just removing the left side, but for ease of access I chose to take them both off.

Draining:

1. With the bike cold, loosen the radiator cap located on the top left side of the bike to relieve the pressure.
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2. Position your catch pan underneath the bike. Now use a small Metric wrench to loosen the drain bolt located above the exhaust headers. This bolt is distinguished having a copper washer. This should drain quite a bit of the old coolant.

closeup
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image further back
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3. Next you want to drain the coolant from the hose coming off the radiator. Move your catch pan underneath the hose and begin by using you a small socket wrench to loosen the bolt for the hose clamp. Once the clamp has been loosened, gently pull off the hose from the radiator and drain the remainder of the old coolant.
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4. Next comes draining your coolant reservoir
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Use a siphon to suck out the old fluid. Siphons can be purchased at most automotive stores and are inexpensive. It's a good idea to pour some distilled water inside if there are visible deposits and repeat the siphoning.

Flushing

Now that you have the coolant drained, you must prepare the bike to have the coolant system flushed.

5. Start off by reattaching the hose to the radiator and tightening the hose clamp
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6. Now reinstall the bolt with the copper washer located near the headers.
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7. Start filling the radiator with Distilled Water. I don't recommend using any automotive type flush treatments as they can be harsh on your bike's cooling system. But if need be, you can add a couple of tablespoons of white vinegar as a flushing agent (just like a coffee maker). It's acidic but won't harm your system. Once the radiator is filled, I usually squeeze the hoses coming off of the radiator to "burp" the system. This helps get trapped air out. Fill the coolant reservoir too with Distilled water.

left side
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right side
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8. Now replace the radiator cap and run the bike until the fans start up.

9. Wait a few minutes until the bike cools and repeat the draining process.

10. Tighten everything up again and then add your coolant. The Triumph Service Manual states .63 gallons. In most cases you will not be able to add the whole amount until the new coolant has begun circulating the system.

11. So.....Run the bike again with the new coolant you added, and let the fans start up. Take note of your coolant level on the reservoir. Add more coolant as necessary to the coolant reservoir
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It's a good idea to hose down or wash your bike afterwards since it can get kinda messy.
 
#4 ·
EarthBM said:
Nice writeup (lot's of work though). Any insight on what caused the yellow deposit in the reservoir?
I was not able to able distinguish what it was. It just looked like a brown sludge after getting a small sample :? ...It ended up dissolving after flushing with distilled water though. I think it took about 2 times flushing and siphoning for it to be removed.
 
#8 ·
I think the "sludge" is oil from the heat exchanger under high pressure. Mine has the same stuff in the overflow tank...have flushed and changed the coolant 3 times and it always comes back after hard running. :evil: Does not matter if i run water or coolant, the sludge comes back. Never any coolant in the oil so i think its just the heat exchanger not a head gasket...hopefully!


rgilmore
 
#9 ·
Aren't you supposed to replace the sealing washer after you take out the drain bolt? (Section 11.5 of the Service Manual) I was about to change my coolant today but I realized I did not have a replacement washer (crush washer?) for the drain bolt.

If you replaced this washer, where can one (or a dozen) be purchased?
 
#10 ·
Chris675 said:
Aren't you supposed to replace the sealing washer after you take out the drain bolt? (Section 11.5 of the Service Manual) I was about to change my coolant today but I realized I did not have a replacement washer (crush washer?) for the drain bolt.

If you replaced this washer, where can one (or a dozen) be purchased?
Yes.

And dude, my dealer GAVE me 5 of them for free. I'd start there. :wink:
 
#11 ·
Changing your coolant also provides a great time to clean your radiator. After you've drained everything, you can unbold the radiator altogether, take it outside and hose it down with a garden hose. If you've had a bike that's been down (causing the radiator to get dirty) or if you live in a dusty environment (the desert), the dirt/dust on the fins can prevent your bike from cooling itself well.
 
#12 ·
Chris675 said:
Aren't you supposed to replace the sealing washer after you take out the drain bolt? (Section 11.5 of the Service Manual) I was about to change my coolant today but I realized I did not have a replacement washer (crush washer?) for the drain bolt.

If you replaced this washer, where can one (or a dozen) be purchased?
BUMP!

This part is not being sold by bikebandit.com. Is this some kind of generic washer that can be picked up at any auto parts store (and if so what kind is it?) or is it special for our bike?
 
#15 ·
Devilfish said:
Chris675 said:
Aren't you supposed to replace the sealing washer after you take out the drain bolt? (Section 11.5 of the Service Manual) I was about to change my coolant today but I realized I did not have a replacement washer (crush washer?) for the drain bolt.

If you replaced this washer, where can one (or a dozen) be purchased?
BUMP!

This part is not being sold by bikebandit.com. Is this some kind of generic washer that can be picked up at any auto parts store (and if so what kind is it?) or is it special for our bike?
Just fyi... you normally flip these over and use them a couple times (just make sure to flip it over every time).

The worst that will happen is a little coolant dripping out until you get the correct washer.
 
#18 ·
Devilfish said:
So, anybody interested in these copper crush sealing washers, they are M6 x 10 x 1.0 mm (10mm overall diameter, 6mm inner diameter, 1mm thick)
Is this an offer? I would be interested in getting some of these. I changed my coolant this last weekend and just reused the washer I had in there, but I wouldn't mind getting a few more for future changes.
 
#19 ·
IF you get overflow spray from the top check to make sure the cap lip is smooth and free of notched and tabs left from the injection mold process.

Sometimes they don't trim off all the protruding notchs after they mold the tank. I had a notch on the lip which prevented a good cap seal and I got the occasional overflow spray out from the cap area. After I trimmed it with a utility knife and a file the overflow spray stopped.
 
#23 ·
Switched my bike from distilled water w/ Water Wetter to Liquid Performance Propylene Glycol.
I needed something to prep it for winter time and I figurred I'd go with propylene glycol as it's approved by STT for use on the track so next year it is not essential that I drain antifreeze out again (yes, I know water and Wetter is really prefferred/essential for other organizations).

I got 2 bottles with 64 fluid ounces in each. The 675 is stated to require 0.63 U.S Gallon. So, about 80 fluid ounces.
Well, I drained it all from the plug only, I did not pull hoses off, and left it to sit for a 1/2hr to drain fully.
I only managed to get 64 ounces of fluid back into the system. The radiator is topped off and the reservoir is halfway between min and max. I ran it a bunch of times until hot so I know without doubt that it is totally full.
So I basically still had 16 fl oz of water/Water Wetter mix in there.

Liquid Performance is already a 50:50 mix, in my 675 it is now diluted with 1/5th of the system capacity worth of water.
Liquid Performance are unable to give me any hard and fast numbers on the freeze point now that it's diluted. They could only say that seeing as it's freeze point is -27 degrees normally, then I should still be ok to maybe say minus 5.
Needless to say, could be and should be isn't satisfactory for me.
I am going to dump it out and do it again to be on the safe side as I dont need a harsh PA winter ballsing up my engine.
So, my question after all of that is, will pulling hoses from the top of the radiator maybe yield me those ellusive 16oz's? Or is it just sitting in the motor?

:headbang :headbang

I have ordered a propylene glycol (specific gravity is different between ethylene and propylene) tester from my local Napa to check it all out, pre and post the second swap.

Edit: Got the coolant tester today ( http://napaonline.com/MasterPages/N...Id=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7002029&Description=Antifreeze+Tester+/+Hand+Held ) . The suspected diluted coolant in my bike is definitely diluted. It measures as having a freeze point of negative 10 fahrenheit (2 floaty balls in the tester).
Just out of curiosity, I wanted to verify the accuracy of the tester.
I tried it on some fresh untainted Liquid Performance, that checked out at negative 27 (3 floaty balls), like they state.
Then a final control measure (as trusting in little floaty balls is a tough one to do :lol: ), I checked it with water, to verify that no floaty balls floated. They did in fact not float.

So my antifreeze is good to minus 10 fahrenheit, theoretically more than enough.
But, I'm an anal sunofabiatch so I am gonna have to change it now just because I know that it's diluted.

How can I get the most fluid out of my bike? :?: :?: :?:
 
#24 ·
I did a coolant change this weekend. I pulled all the hoses and and the radiator, and got about 2.2L, incl the expansion bottle. I measured what ended up in the drain pan.

If you leave the rad in place there will be coolant left inside. Look at the lowest point inlets/oulets on the RH & LH side of the rad. Even if you pull all the hoses, the fluid BELOW those points is still left in the radiator.

There will be also be some fluid left in the hoses, thermostat, and water pump cavities. The manual gives you a capacity of 2.4L (.63 gallon), thats a coolant filling from dry, aka after a complete dissassembly.... I'm betting.

To deal w/ whats left in the rad if it is left mounted on the bike... Put bike on sidestand, insert hose down thermostat neck of rad and siphon the leftover. But I swear, there may be some sort of trap about 1/2-way down IIRC?? (my system is sealed up, I can't check). Look down neck w/ flashlight.

So drain the system pulling drain and lower hoses. Seal everything up. Buy 100% solution (not the pre-mixed), fill it w/ 2.1L of 100% solution, then fill balance of fill w/ straight water. Then your sure to get AT LEAST a 50-50 mix.

The marketing of premixed coolant, IMHO is pretty silly, OK, I'll be blunt, stupid. your situation here is exactly why i say that. If you have leftover in your system, you can pour all the 50-50 solution you can get in there. It will still be less than 50-50...since you had leftover.

If you want to be sure, flush w/ distlled. get 100%, dump in 1.2L, fill the rest w/ water and be done w/ it.
 
#25 ·
morsetaper2 said:
So drain the system pulling drain and lower hoses. Seal everything up. Buy 100% solution (not the pre-mixed), fill it w/ 2.1L of 100% solution, then fill balance of fill w/ straight water. Then your sure to get AT LEAST a 50-50 mix.

The marketing of premixed coolant, IMHO is pretty silly, OK, I'll be blunt, stupid. your situation here is exactly why i say that. If you have leftover in your system, you can pour all the 50-50 solution you can get in there. It will still be less than 50-50...since you had leftover.

If you want to be sure, flush w/ distlled. get 100%, dump in 2.1L, fill the rest w/ water and be done w/ it.
Problem is that I cannot find a propylene glycol that isn't pre-diluted. :headbang
Thanks for the tip on siphoning the rad, I hadn't checked the location of the hose connections in relation to the bottom of the rad. Will give that a shot.
 
#26 ·
Well, I think if you were to get around 2.0L out of the system by emptying the rad, pulling the hoses, etc. Then pour in your 50-50 solution, you'll probably be more than adequete for whatever the PA winter throws at you. But I guess it depends where in PA you are, and does the bike live outside. Just don't leave your bike up at the peak of Blue Knob outside during Jan or Feb.

Or just go to Ethylene glycol for the winter, then change over in the spring if you are really worried about it.

I went skiing at Blue Knob one time, and it was so friggin cold. At the summit is was -17 F. That is the coldest cold, I've ever experienced.

Now I know someone from Intl Falls, MN or VT or Canada will chime in and tell me about real cold!