Removing starter motor for track?

[Daytona.Scott]

Hello there!
I have been tinkering with an idea of removing starter motor from my track 675r. Has anyone done it before? I was trying to look up the weight of the starter motor to see whether or not it's worth it but had no luck...

[Cloud22116]

How do you plan on starting the bike these bikes are notorious for being hard to push start.

[Daytona.Scott]

Originally Posted by Cloud22116

How do you plan on starting the bike these bikes are notorious for being hard to push start.

IF I do go with that plan, I am planning to get one of this thing built by a local bicycle shop
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSuh3K9xabA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj6keP6JxCQ
It's pretty simple and I have a full plan for it :)

However, I am weighing two different options. 1st being starter motor removal
OR ETI Fuel Cell. I have been talking to ETI Fuel Cell about getting custom one built but it's on the quite pricey side. Carbon tank is not an option since they do leak and requires re-coating.

Here are some of the mods I am planning to this winter:
Kit Race Alternator
Kit Race Harness
Kit Gasket
AFAM 520 Racing sprocket & chain
Full Spectrum Battery
Yoyodyne Rear Subframe
SAI Block Off
EVAP box removal
T-3 Air Intake
MWR Air Filter
RSRacecraft rear linkage
Manual Idle Adjuster

All tree-hugger & DOT stuff gone

I will also be getting ridding of Full Akrapovic system for possibly a full custom titanium low exhaust by Race Fit.

[dubguy85]

Originally Posted by Daytona.Scott

IF I do go with that plan, I am planning to get one of this thing built by a local bicycle shop
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSuh3K9xabA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj6keP6JxCQ
It's pretty simple and I have a full plan for it :)

However, I am weighing two different options. 1st being starter motor removal
OR ETI Fuel Cell. I have been talking to ETI Fuel Cell about getting custom one built but it's on the quite pricey side. Carbon tank is not an option since they do leak and requires re-coating.

Here are some of the mods I am planning to this winter:
Kit Race Alternator
Kit Race Harness
Kit Gasket
AFAM 520 Racing sprocket & chain
Full Spectrum Battery
Yoyodyne Rear Subframe
SAI Block Off
EVAP box removal
T-3 Air Intake
MWR Air Filter
RSRacecraft rear linkage
Manual Idle Adjuster

All tree-hugger & DOT stuff gone

I will also be getting ridding of Full Akrapovic system for possibly a full custom titanium low exhaust by Race Fit.

I wouldn't worry about the weight of the starter until you are top 5 in ama daytona sportbike. I know a few ama trriumph guys and they are in no need to take their starter off... There are a ton of other things u should do before even coming close to doing that. If you win the wera gnf expert next year and decide to take a step up to ama, I'll let u consider it. :)

[Daytona.Scott]

Yeah that's what I have been telling myself in the back corner of my mind :)

Currently I am just playing around with weight reductions and it was one of the thing that just popped up.

[shouldnthave]

+1 on Dub. Get your gearing right, a good exhaust, take off the bits you don't need, work on suspension, and tune. All whilst getting faster than everyone on the track. She is a fast, fast bike and everything you need to be the top racer in your class. Save your money for the next bike after you kill this one getting fast enough to need to remove the starter.

[Daytona.Scott]

Yeah I already had my current exhaust (full akrapovic) dyno tuned. In terms of suspension I am going to get it revalved and set. On the other note, when you say gearing, you mean final drive right? Last time I checked supersport (ccs and wera) doesn't allow transmission modifications.
What's your recommendation on final drive ratio?
Friend of mine is running one down in front and one up in the rear for his 675.

[Noodles]

Just removing the starter motor by itself isn't worth it, unless you plan on removing the associated gears/starter clutch (that's where you lose sprung weight, but more important, reciprocating weight). Also, if you're planning on racing, make sure that it's ok by the rules. The weight of the starter alone isn't worth the aggravation of having to restart the bike the hard way after a red flag, etc...

Nuno!

[shouldnthave]

Originally Posted by Daytona.Scott

Yeah I already had my current exhaust (full akrapovic) dyno tuned. In terms of suspension I am going to get it revalved and set. On the other note, when you say gearing, you mean final drive right? Last time I checked supersport (ccs and wera) doesn't allow transmission modifications.
What's your recommendation on final drive ratio?
Friend of mine is running one down in front and one up in the rear for his 675.

It really depends on the track. I like 17/48 for the faster tracks and 16/49 (sometimes 48 if its cold) for the more technical tracks like Sears Point. It's best to have a few options for the track/weather. Because everyone rides different, no real answer either. You just have to see what you like.

[Daytona.Scott]

Originally Posted by Noodles

Just removing the starter motor by itself isn't worth it, unless you plan on removing the associated gears/starter clutch (that's where you lose sprung weight, but more important, reciprocating weight). Also, if you're planning on racing, make sure that it's ok by the rules. The weight of the starter alone isn't worth the aggravation of having to restart the bike the hard way after a red flag, etc...

Nuno!

Yes sir. That was the impression I was getting at. Lately I have been getting an impression that superbike class or unlimited class tends to become money pissing contest. For instance, for a super sport class all we can do to decrease the unsprung mass is to get a wave-rotor/lighter final drive (aluminum + 520)/ and maybe removing starter motor (which I don't think has much merit), while superbike/unlimited class has an option of Carbon wheels (which I do find quite excessive, but I does have significant performance advantage).

In terms of rules, do you know whether WERA/CSS allow composite tanks like ETI? I have been reading through the rule book over and over again, but didn't find anything on it. As far as way AMA guys go, it looked like they were using aluminum tank (I believe 1.0mm think according Beater tanks). I am not planning to run off and get them but I am just curious :)