This "HOW TO"
solves the problem that most of us D675'rs face when it comes to headlights and lighting. Problem being that we want even lighting/symmetrical brightness and color, within both side of our headlights while using HID style lighting.
Some things to know first...1.)DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT IS CAUSED TO YOUR HEADLIGHT, YOUR BIKE, YOURSELF, YOUR FRIENDS, YOUR FRIEND'S HEADLIGHT, YOUR FRIEND'S BIKE, YOUR FAMILY MEMBER, YOUR FAMILY MEMBER'S...WELL YOU GET THE PICTURE!
This write up is long with lots of reading/pictures, so PLEASE read carefully as this will answer most
questions that people have, before you post a question and look stupid
I will be showing/explaining how to wire up the HIDs to your HIGH BEAM switch so that you can turn them off/on when ever you want. (at least that's what I want, you may do otherwise or wire them to whatever you want). So through inductive and deductive reasoning, you by now should realize that you WILL NOT HAVE A HIGH BEAM IF YOU FOLLOW MY GUIDE. The reason being that if you order two 55w 6000k HIDS like I did, do you really think your going to need a high beam?
Didn't think so...
If anything you will have to adjust your headlights down towards the road so you are not blinding people. If you want to do this and have a low and high beam for both sides you will have to buy Bi-Xenon projectors and have them custom fit which will cost you around $500+.
You can go with what ever setup you want as far as bulb size (H7 or H9)
, ballast kelvin or color (aka "k": 5,000 6,000 10,000 or whatever)
, and wattage (35w or 55w)
. Just remember that you should get two of the SAME BULB SIZES
if you want exactly the same color and brightness.
if you get one H7 bulb and one H9 bulb
, then get matching ballasts and wattage there is a chance that they could be a little off in color and/or brightness. The reason is because the bulbs are made in pairs from the factory and depending on how they are made together...if you separate them, they could possibly be different. This information came directly from a DDM Tuning technician today December 22, 2011 over the phone...they are VERY informative I might add
Now, I understand that if you could just use H7 and H9 bulbs (one for each side) that would save a lot of time and hassle, but it will also cost you more money and could potentially not be the same.
If you have any ambition to do Halos, Audi style lighting, housing/shroud painting, etc ...after you do my mod, while your headlight is still apart, it would be a good time to install what you need before re-sealing.
Tools you'll need
-Grinder (see picture)
-Vice Grip (or a super jacked friend
Other things you'll need
-Dual HID kit with the SAME size bulbs (H7 or H9)
-Dual Hid Harness the same as this one:
-Shrink Wrap or Black Electrical Tape
-Cardboard (I used Bud Light box... yum yum
-H7 plug from Auto Zone or an auto parts store
-Some sort of metal clip to hold the HID into place. The ideal clip would be to get one from another daytona. You will need the clip and the screw with the bracket just the same as the Low beam (H7) side of your headlight
Here is what I am talking about
You need to have the SAME SETUP on both side in order for it to work!
-How to take Headlight apart (and put back together) Thread (Give some credit to 675>FZ6R for doing some serious ***** work...
Found here: [ame="http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58424"]How to: Disassemble Headlight Assembly & Paint Interior[/ame]
THE STEPS ON HOW TO STING YOUR HEADLIGHTS:
(okay i might be trying to create a name for myself...and the mod)
1: (THE HARD PART) Take apart your headlight COMPLETELY following 675>FZ6R's thread (found above). Some things to know:
-You will need the tools describes in his How To thread (i was not about to put there here because that would be a waste of time and space)
-you will mar up the outside of your headlight housing and feel like you are ruining everything, but your not. In the end you'll be heating it back up to mold it back into place.
-TAKE YOUR F'ING TIME AND PE PATIENT!!!! if you have to put the headlight in the over 10 times, then do it!!! If you break your headlight lens... well im sure you can figure that one out...
-**When you take your projectors out, do not take them apart yet, set them aside so we can work on them and keep track of LEFT versus RIGHT pieces
2: After the headlight is apart, you want to ONLY be working with the LEFT projector or the LOW BEAM projector. (so put everything else aside so you don' mix up parts
) > If you are having a hard time figuring out which projector is high and low, the HIGH BREAM projector has a black plastic twist base plate for the H9 bulb and does not have the block off plate in the middle of the projector (can be seen after taking off the black plastic twist base plate and looking into the projector).
3. Take the projector apart piece by piece all the way down until you just have the metal projector bracket attached to the glass lens, and the block off plate held on by a screw When you are working with the projector BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE LENS ON S*** OR YOU WILL BREAK/SCRATCH/DAMAGE IT AND BE VERY
You should have something like this:
To prevent from scratching the lens while you are working on it, put some masking tape on it to cover it, and a piece of cardboard or more tape in the inside to cover it completely. Should look like this:
4. Now this next step can be skipped you if you can un-screw that stupid screw from the back off plate. I could not get mine off to save my life so I opted out to an easier way... hehe
Put the projector in a vice grip and grind off the screw head.
Looks like this:
5. Then remove the block off plate and you will see the metal arm that the block off plate screws to, your going to grind that off now...once again BE CAREFUL no to grind up your projector too bad.
Should look something like this:
6. Now you have the projector symmetrical to the LOW BEAM projector (which has no block off plate inside)
7. Okay now simply just reverse the "taking it apart" process. Pretty much common sense.
What it looked like before I started to silicon it. BTW I used this stuff called LEXEL
and I'll let you guys know how it holds up.
The Lexel takes a day or two to dry but I really like it. It is very flexible and still somewhat tacky. Have not tried to re-heat it and pull it apart tho. If I ever do I will make sure to update!
NOW, we will be converting the headlight to the "Dual" setup we desire. By doing this, when the bike is tuned and the headlight high beam switch is flipped on, both sides of the headlight will light up. When the switch is off, there will be no light coming from the headlight. (except you DRL's)
8. First you will need to cut two wires approximately about 12" long so you can bridge both sides of the headlight. You will need to run the wires through the back of the headlight, after it is ran through you are going to connect the H7 plug to the wires you just ran, keeping track of the positive and negative wires.
9. Next you will need to simply cut off the LEFT SIDE PLUG
! You might need to use a razor blade to cut back the shroud. Try to leave as much of the wire as you can so you have something to play with, but also leave some on the plug so it can be used again, because it will.
10. Now, hook up the positive and negative ends from the HID into the plug shown below...
11. Next, you will need to cut off the H9 plug on the right side of the headlight and extend the stock wiring a bit. NOTE: I only had black wiring so I wrapped a white twistie tie around it to show that it is the positive wire.
12. NOW PAY ATTENTION HERE BECAUSE THIS MIGHT GET CONFUSING!
You will be connecting the wires you ran through the back of the headlight to another H7 plug. You need to connect the two negatives (one from the wiring you ran through the headlight, and one from stock wiring you extended) into the negative side of the plug. Then you will be doing the same for the positive side.
NOTE: I messed up and ran my positives to the negative side of the plug and did not notice it until the very end, but all I had to do was just switch the positive and negative connections coming from the HID. Pretty easy fix. So if you are looking at the picture I took, try not to get confused. Please refer to the one I created if you start to get confused.
13. Finally, hook up the positive and negative ends from the HIDs to the H7 plug on the RIGHT side and tuck everything into the headlight housing shown below.
14. You will want to go back and block off the live wires from the H7 plug you cut off earlier, just in case they would touch and cause a short...so do that like this:
There, everything is now converted!
NOW, we will be moving to the bike and setting up the harness that you bought. You cannot run everything off the bike's stock harness as it will not be enough to power BOTH of the HIDs at the same time. (and yes I did test this)
15. Lay the harness over the bike so you can see what you are working with.
16. You will want to run the positive and negative connectors of the harness backwards through the main frame first as it is a LOT easier than trying to run all that wiring one way. Now, connect the negative and positive ends to the battery. You will see what I am talking about in the pictures.
17. Set your headlight up on something that is about waist high so it is easy to work with. Hook everything up to the harness as you are getting ready to test everything. Double check all your connections!!!
WITH OUT FURTHER A-DO... I GIVE TO YOU "DUAL HID's" (PLEASE GOD WATCH)
A Side Note:
The Halos I used are size 80MM T-10's and the color is cool white
, from here:
The pic is a little bright, but you get the idea.
Lastly...Some Extra Pictures:
Special thanks to:
, 675>FZ6R, faheygf87, Nemain675, and homer