So, I've been fighting a squishy front brake feel since I bought my '08 (they stopped the bike fine). After trying every bleeding trick in the book (multiple times), I gave up and decided the problem must be in one of the components. My final setup is an Brembo RCS19 master, '06 R6 calipers (cheap on ebay), and custom Spiegler lines. This setup has given me a very firm lever - but not as firm as a full Brembo setup. An added benefit is that the monobloc R6 calipers & fixing are a little lighter than the Nissins. I swapped the master first & even though I liked the adjustability / features, it didn't really help too much. The R6 cals are what helped the most - maybe only b/c they're a better design & easier to bleed, but I was able to get them bled on the first try. (I'm 99% sure the stock calipers had some kind of "issue".) Swapping the calipers is not for the faint of heart - needed to fab spacers and specify the brake lines & fittings. If anyone's interested, I can provide the details / measurements of my setup.
knox675
Better Brakes - Finally!
Had someone ask, so here are the details:
Brembo 19 RCS - works fine with the stock clip-ons & stock reservoir. I have vortex clip-ons, so I had to fab a bracket for the reservoir. Used Tygon 2075 (kurveygirl.com) line to connect. Brembo uses a slightly smaller nipple, so you'll have to make sure it's clamped well (I use safety wire).
2006-2007 R6 calipers (ebay) - I'm not an expert on the years. I used '06, but it looks like 07's, and maybe 08-09, are the same. Maybe someone could compare part #'s on bike bandit. Make sure they're R6 and not R6s! You will need to remove the locating bushings (padded vise and vice grips) and find or fabricate shims. Shims are aluminum, 24mm O.D 10.5 mm I.D. and 2.0 to 3.0 mm thick (2.5 mm nominal). Do not go more than 3mm as this will move the pads outside the radius of the rotors. Also do not use steel washers!!! The shims must be aluminum to maintain he strength of the joint. (I believe there is somewhere online that sells shims for this sort of application.) You will also need to purchase 06-07 Yamaha R6 caliper bolts (Triumph bolts will not fit).
Spiegler brake lines (custom):Line 1
Length A in mm: 640
Fitting F1: 002
Fitting F2: 020
Line Color: Smoke
Fitting Color: Black
Line 2
Length A in mm: 690
Fitting F1: 022
Fitting F2: 020
Line Color: Smoke
Fitting Color: Black
You must ask for the the Brembo MC banjo bolt (10x1, I think - they know the size) if you go with the Brembo MC. I measured, then added a couple of cm to my measurements to be safe. Turns out they're a bit too long, so you would be safe reducing the length by about 2 cm (too long is OK, too short on the other hand...) At the MC, line #1 (Fitting 02) goes on top. Line 2 (Fitting 022) has a slight bend to help it get around the fork leg.
Flush the system well w/ cheap DOT 4 especially if you got your calipers off ebay (mine had some really nasty fluid left in them). I refilled with Motul RBF600. Brakes worked very well racing at Nashville w/ the MC set on 18 (20 feels like a rock). Only a very small touch of fade after about 8 to 10 laps of hauling the bike down from 162 mph on the front straight!
Whew - that's it, I think. Pics below:
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Brembo 19 RCS - works fine with the stock clip-ons & stock reservoir. I have vortex clip-ons, so I had to fab a bracket for the reservoir. Used Tygon 2075 (kurveygirl.com) line to connect. Brembo uses a slightly smaller nipple, so you'll have to make sure it's clamped well (I use safety wire).
2006-2007 R6 calipers (ebay) - I'm not an expert on the years. I used '06, but it looks like 07's, and maybe 08-09, are the same. Maybe someone could compare part #'s on bike bandit. Make sure they're R6 and not R6s! You will need to remove the locating bushings (padded vise and vice grips) and find or fabricate shims. Shims are aluminum, 24mm O.D 10.5 mm I.D. and 2.0 to 3.0 mm thick (2.5 mm nominal). Do not go more than 3mm as this will move the pads outside the radius of the rotors. Also do not use steel washers!!! The shims must be aluminum to maintain he strength of the joint. (I believe there is somewhere online that sells shims for this sort of application.) You will also need to purchase 06-07 Yamaha R6 caliper bolts (Triumph bolts will not fit).
Spiegler brake lines (custom):Line 1
Length A in mm: 640
Fitting F1: 002
Fitting F2: 020
Line Color: Smoke
Fitting Color: Black
Line 2
Length A in mm: 690
Fitting F1: 022
Fitting F2: 020
Line Color: Smoke
Fitting Color: Black
You must ask for the the Brembo MC banjo bolt (10x1, I think - they know the size) if you go with the Brembo MC. I measured, then added a couple of cm to my measurements to be safe. Turns out they're a bit too long, so you would be safe reducing the length by about 2 cm (too long is OK, too short on the other hand...) At the MC, line #1 (Fitting 02) goes on top. Line 2 (Fitting 022) has a slight bend to help it get around the fork leg.
Flush the system well w/ cheap DOT 4 especially if you got your calipers off ebay (mine had some really nasty fluid left in them). I refilled with Motul RBF600. Brakes worked very well racing at Nashville w/ the MC set on 18 (20 feels like a rock). Only a very small touch of fade after about 8 to 10 laps of hauling the bike down from 162 mph on the front straight!
Whew - that's it, I think. Pics below:
very nice and +1 on sticky:thumbup: how much did you snag the r6 calipers for? what was the total cost to this setup?
Motion to sticky denied: I want to see more effort on things that make the bike go faster. Quit wasting your time on stuff that only make you slow, like brakes.
No go on, get busy thinking about fast stuff before I come over qnd lap you on my SV.:coolgleamA:
No go on, get busy thinking about fast stuff before I come over qnd lap you on my SV.:coolgleamA:
05'+ R6 sized brake lines works fine...
total price=
ebay calipers with new ferrodo CP211 carbon pads $80 shipped
Master = 165
Lines= 60
remote adjuster = 45
res. cup plus bracket = 18
still being shipped Galfer wave rotor....
BTW ofcounsel, motor out being built so needed these slow down thing-a-ma-jobs....
total price=
ebay calipers with new ferrodo CP211 carbon pads $80 shipped
Master = 165
Lines= 60
remote adjuster = 45
res. cup plus bracket = 18
still being shipped Galfer wave rotor....
BTW ofcounsel, motor out being built so needed these slow down thing-a-ma-jobs....
Attachments
^^^ Hehe!:biggrinjester: I was just messin!
As a bigger guy on a small bike, I've had to become very adept at out-braking as well. If you take a look at mine, you'll see I've got just about the same set up... Brembo RCS 19, custom brake lines and R6 rotors. And I've replaced the EBC rotors with some Brembos. The R6 calipers are not only lighter and stiffer than the GSX-R calipers, but their a bit smaller too. So they allow me to slip 320mm rotors on my 16.5" mag. wheel.
![Image]()
I've got my bike down to about 330lbs with enough fuel for a sprint race. Now, if I can only get my fat ass to lose some weight, I'd be set!
As a bigger guy on a small bike, I've had to become very adept at out-braking as well. If you take a look at mine, you'll see I've got just about the same set up... Brembo RCS 19, custom brake lines and R6 rotors. And I've replaced the EBC rotors with some Brembos. The R6 calipers are not only lighter and stiffer than the GSX-R calipers, but their a bit smaller too. So they allow me to slip 320mm rotors on my 16.5" mag. wheel.
I've got my bike down to about 330lbs with enough fuel for a sprint race. Now, if I can only get my fat ass to lose some weight, I'd be set!
I'm wondering how much of an effect running independent brake lines may have had on the squishiness. I read your other post which mention some suspicion with the crossover line.
I'd guess the R6 calipers had a bigger play in that, but still curious.
I'm running '07 Daytona calipers with C59 pads and a RCS19 (set to 20) and experiencing more squishiness than I had expected as well. As you said, the bike stops just fine, but the lever is still softer than desired. Bled the system well and zip tied the lever overnight which helped only for a brief moment before returning to "normal".
I'd guess the R6 calipers had a bigger play in that, but still curious.
I'm running '07 Daytona calipers with C59 pads and a RCS19 (set to 20) and experiencing more squishiness than I had expected as well. As you said, the bike stops just fine, but the lever is still softer than desired. Bled the system well and zip tied the lever overnight which helped only for a brief moment before returning to "normal".
Umi, something like this will work, you'll just need to fit your own Tygon tubing if it's too big:
![Image]()
Amazon.com: Fjc, Inc. 2731 Syringe Oil Injector: Automotive
I remember you saying a while ago you were having trouble with squishy brakes. If the teflon tape hasn't permanently fixed the problem, it sounds to me like you've overtightened the bleeders at one point and the tape is deteriorating so it's not sealing anymore. It doesn't surprise me since brake fluid eats pretty much anything. No real fix for it except new calipers. You can know for sure by putting the calipers from your 10 on that bike and see if it stays tight. You could also try just switching MCs and see if that helps.
Don't worry about "cheap" DOT 4. Just get whatever kind you normally use; one whole bottle will be more than enough to flush everything.
Where is the line flattened?
I remember you saying a while ago you were having trouble with squishy brakes. If the teflon tape hasn't permanently fixed the problem, it sounds to me like you've overtightened the bleeders at one point and the tape is deteriorating so it's not sealing anymore. It doesn't surprise me since brake fluid eats pretty much anything. No real fix for it except new calipers. You can know for sure by putting the calipers from your 10 on that bike and see if it stays tight. You could also try just switching MCs and see if that helps.
Don't worry about "cheap" DOT 4. Just get whatever kind you normally use; one whole bottle will be more than enough to flush everything.
Where is the line flattened?
OK then just switch over the MC and see if that fixes it. Don't the calipers fit from 09+? If not, you could swap the entire front end over. Only takes about an hour and it's a lot better than buying new calipers without knowing for sure that's your problem.
That syringe looks fine.
If the line is slightly flattened but it's before the crossover, then you should be getting equal pressure to both calipers. Shouldn't be a problem.
That syringe looks fine.
If the line is slightly flattened but it's before the crossover, then you should be getting equal pressure to both calipers. Shouldn't be a problem.
09+ Calipers are different. They are the black Nissin Monoblocks.
You can use older years rotors with them without issue. I have a 2nd set of 08 wheels and rotors and have not had issue on my 09.
I highly recommend the Brembo RCS MC with the adjustment turned to the 'red' facing up. Also Markbuilt put in new pads for me about a month ago. Not sure what they are (will find out) but like them much better than the Carbon Lorriane Racing ones. More progressive feel, better for trail braking.
TS
You can use older years rotors with them without issue. I have a 2nd set of 08 wheels and rotors and have not had issue on my 09.
I highly recommend the Brembo RCS MC with the adjustment turned to the 'red' facing up. Also Markbuilt put in new pads for me about a month ago. Not sure what they are (will find out) but like them much better than the Carbon Lorriane Racing ones. More progressive feel, better for trail braking.
TS
Can I simply (yea right, simply) install R6 Calipers on my 09+ Daytona with some spacers without changing my lines or master cylinder?
If so can someone point me in the right direction to the source for the spacers.
(I can't mod a potato head, more less anything with wheels)
If so can someone point me in the right direction to the source for the spacers.
(I can't mod a potato head, more less anything with wheels)
My buddy just recently did this, I had him email me the following info:
Zoran makes the spacers:
http://www.twfracing.com/
You also need the bolts to mount the calipers they must be the Yamaha bolts. You can find them here from Pro-Bolts
http://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles....com/stainless-steel-front-brake-caliper-mounting-bolt-kit-11.html#.ULTgYIXlXcg
I think that was the cheapest option. The brake lines are from Spiegler you can call them. Defiantly buy new banjo bolts for the calipers and the master cylinder. Don't take any chances reusing the existing parts. I bought all new personally.
http://www.spieglerusa.com/
That should be all you need to start that project.
Zoran makes the spacers:
http://www.twfracing.com/
You also need the bolts to mount the calipers they must be the Yamaha bolts. You can find them here from Pro-Bolts
http://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles....com/stainless-steel-front-brake-caliper-mounting-bolt-kit-11.html#.ULTgYIXlXcg
I think that was the cheapest option. The brake lines are from Spiegler you can call them. Defiantly buy new banjo bolts for the calipers and the master cylinder. Don't take any chances reusing the existing parts. I bought all new personally.
http://www.spieglerusa.com/
That should be all you need to start that project.
Can anyone give me the information I would need to give a machinist to make the bolts for me?
I like to support my local machinist when possible, as long as the cost is not way out of line.
I like to support my local machinist when possible, as long as the cost is not way out of line.
If I buy R6 calipers, can I use other R6 front brake components with my Daytona, such as:
1. Reservoir
2. Master Cylinder
3. Brake Lines
4. Pads
I am shopping for R6 calipers and some of them are sold with some or all of the components above, so I am wondering if they will work attached to my Daytona, either as single pieces or all together.
Thanks!
1. Reservoir
2. Master Cylinder
3. Brake Lines
4. Pads
I am shopping for R6 calipers and some of them are sold with some or all of the components above, so I am wondering if they will work attached to my Daytona, either as single pieces or all together.
Thanks!
You can use an R6 reservoir. You can use an R6 master. You might be able to use R6 lines but the OEM ones are rubber and inferior to the Daytona's stock steel lines. You can use R6 pads with R6 calipers.
Regarding the brake pads, lol, what I MEANT to say was "Can I use Daytona break pads in the R6 calipers.
Thanks much for the info!
Thanks much for the info!
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