LSL FRAME SLIDER, install..HELP!!

mgaul1 · 02-08-10, 00:10

So I bought some LSL frame sliders for my 2008 daytona 675, question. There are 2 screws that go into the bike, one for radiator mount and other for cylinder head frame, my question is as far as the cylinder head frame the original nut that's on the other side is it a FIXED nut or a nut not attached to the bike because with its location i feel like it'd be impossible to get a rachet in there to hold the nut while i unscrew the original engine bolt...so, before i get into this, is it a fixed nut? and is there any advice for installing these frame sliders??

Thanks!
Michael

Ken M1 · 02-08-10, 00:42

I have sliders on my Street (although not LSL's). I'm pretty sure it's the same Street/Daytona. The front engine bolts have a nut behind them that is NOT fixed (where as the rear engine bolts thread directly into the motor). It seems as though it is, at first, because it is the "stippled" locking type nut that grips the motor's surface. Once the tension is loosened though, it's free and clear. You'll have to get a wrench behind there to take it off (or it will keep spinning and not come off). I accessed mine with an S shaped box wrench for shift side, but loosening the radiator is generally the better way to go (which I had to do for the brake side). Loosen the top rad bolts, remove the lower bolts, and swing it out about 1 1/2" (yeah, it doesn't move much). The motor bolts are SERIOUSLY tight, I had to use a breaker bar to crack 'em loose. I forget the exact torque spec, but I seem to recall using around 34 lbs to tighten back up (front and rear).

415TRIUMPH · 02-08-10, 00:45

i used a long extension and a swivel socket to get to that nut

mgaul1 · 02-08-10, 02:16

Kickass, guess I'll go get some new tools tomorrrow and take this thing on, sure wish that was a fixed nut however that would make it quite a bit easier but owell! Thanks for the quick reply guys I appreciate it

Steve09675 · 02-08-10, 18:00

Tighten the 2 motor mounting pointsto to 48 Nm. The instructions have the rest of the torque specs.

Ken M1 · 02-08-10, 21:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve09675

Tighten the 2 motor mounting pointsto to 48 Nm. The instructions have the rest of the torque specs.

48Nm = 35 lb-ft

Hands On · 02-09-10, 04:55

I believe I was able to get a box wrench in there when installing my LSL's to hold the nut. Still did the turning using a hex socket.

mgaul1 · 02-10-10, 09:45

I got them on thanks for the advise they look great! Seem to be some real high quality sliders

02-08-10, 00:10	#1
mgaul1 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dallas, Baton Rouge Posts: 99	LSL FRAME SLIDER, install..HELP!! So I bought some LSL frame sliders for my 2008 daytona 675, question. There are 2 screws that go into the bike, one for radiator mount and other for cylinder head frame, my question is as far as the cylinder head frame the original nut that's on the other side is it a FIXED nut or a nut not attached to the bike because with its location i feel like it'd be impossible to get a rachet in there to hold the nut while i unscrew the original engine bolt...so, before i get into this, is it a fixed nut? and is there any advice for installing these frame sliders?? Thanks! Michael __________________ 2008 Daytona 675 Special Edition
Status: Offline

02-08-10, 00:42	#2
Ken M1 Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 639	I have sliders on my Street (although not LSL's). I'm pretty sure it's the same Street/Daytona. The front engine bolts have a nut behind them that is NOT fixed (where as the rear engine bolts thread directly into the motor). It seems as though it is, at first, because it is the "stippled" locking type nut that grips the motor's surface. Once the tension is loosened though, it's free and clear. You'll have to get a wrench behind there to take it off (or it will keep spinning and not come off). I accessed mine with an S shaped box wrench for shift side, but loosening the radiator is generally the better way to go (which I had to do for the brake side). Loosen the top rad bolts, remove the lower bolts, and swing it out about 1 1/2" (yeah, it doesn't move much). The motor bolts are SERIOUSLY tight, I had to use a breaker bar to crack 'em loose. I forget the exact torque spec, but I seem to recall using around 34 lbs to tighten back up (front and rear).
Status: Offline

02-08-10, 00:45	#3
415TRIUMPH Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Camas or the Bay Area Posts: 658	i used a long extension and a swivel socket to get to that nut
Status: Online

02-08-10, 02:16	#4
mgaul1 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dallas, Baton Rouge Posts: 99	Kickass, guess I'll go get some new tools tomorrrow and take this thing on, sure wish that was a fixed nut however that would make it quite a bit easier but owell! Thanks for the quick reply guys I appreciate it __________________ 2008 Daytona 675 Special Edition
Status: Offline

02-08-10, 18:00	#5
Steve09675 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 66	Tighten the 2 motor mounting pointsto to 48 Nm. The instructions have the rest of the torque specs. __________________ Steve 2009 675, Arrow slip-on, solo seat, pazzo levers -long clutch/shorty brake, carbon fiber bits, watsen's, LSL Frame/Clutch slider, soon to come - woodcraft rearsets/clip-ons. Previously owned bikes: 2009 BMW R1200RT, 2005 Kawi ZX10R, 2003 KX250, 2001 XR400, 2000 ZX6R, 2000 ZR7, 1995 DR650, 1983 YZ80, Rupp Hustler
Status: Offline

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02-09-10, 04:55	#7
Hands On Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 265	I believe I was able to get a box wrench in there when installing my LSL's to hold the nut. Still did the turning using a hex socket.
Status: Offline

02-10-10, 09:45	#8
mgaul1 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dallas, Baton Rouge Posts: 99	I got them on thanks for the advise they look great! Seem to be some real high quality sliders __________________ 2008 Daytona 675 Special Edition
Status: Offline

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