HOW TO: Fork oil & seal change - Page 7 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #61 of 175 Old 10-27-10, 08:44
gvanagten
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So I watched Dave Moss' video on how to change fork oil (http://www.onthethrottle.com/edownloads/) and it seems to conflict with the approach recommended on this thread. The key differences being that he did not use a fork compressor tool as he did not remove any of the internals, he just opened the top up and drained out the oil. He also refilled it based on volume (measuring what came out and putting the same amount back in).

Is this approach compatible with our bikes at all?
I realize it seems like a less perfect way; but from my limited understanding it seems like it would work.
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post #62 of 175 Old 10-27-10, 20:30
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Dave's method will work on our bikes if just changing the fork oil, the only issue with the volume measuring method that Dave recommends is that we are also discussing changing the total volume of the oil to effect the air gap. So, if you were just doing a straight oil change, with no changing of air gap, then yes, Dave's method can work, with out much hassle at all.

If you were to dump the oil, and replace it with exactly the same amount that came out(which is still only an approximation, because there will still be some left in the internals) then your air gap would remain the same. Most of us are changing the air gap from the factory 72mm to 110mm(115personally). How much volume of fork oil do you remove to get the bigger air gap? Its only a guess if you cant measure it correctly.

The only proper way to measure an air gap is to remove the cap, preload spacer, and spring, and then measure how far from the top of the tube to the fork oil for the air gap you want.

2010 Daytona 675 SE- street bike
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post #63 of 175 Old 06-28-11, 06:27
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Has anyone used this kit? will it work on our bike, especially the spring compressor.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....T#ht_500wt_949
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post #64 of 175 Old 06-28-11, 11:24
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I don't seen anything in that kit that will not work from a specs stand point. Now whether they are quality or not.....
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post #65 of 175 Old 06-28-11, 15:16
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I tried using that exact same kit on my '10 Triumph, by myself, and I couldnt get the spring to compress enough. Just not enough hands and enough force. Actually I even had my wife come out and try to slide the flat bar under the spacer if I could get the spring down far enough, and I never could.

I ended up buying the spring compressor stand for $100

2010 Daytona 675 SE- street bike
Pazzo levers
HIDs

2007 Honda 600rr - trackbike
WoodCraft: Frame sliders, case savers, clip ons, rear sets, and rear spools
Driven 520 sprockets
Pazzo levers
Ohlins 25M Carts and TTX Shock
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post #66 of 175 Old 06-29-11, 00:17
Cahrens320
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Is there any one in San Jose that has the tools I could barrow. Or they could help me do this. I have stands and can have the forks off and be ready to change the fork oil. Thank you in advance.
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post #67 of 175 Old 07-30-11, 07:33
Willy Wonka
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If you want to buy a compressor tool, this one is cheaper then the racetech tool (click)
I'm going to made my own one.
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post #68 of 175 Old 07-30-11, 13:23 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willy Wonka View Post
If you want to buy a compressor tool, this one is cheaper then the racetech tool ( click)
I'm going to made my own one.
Same thing this guy posted like 4 posts up, looks like kind of a POS. You get what you pay for dude...:
Quote:
Originally Posted by charoli View Post
Has anyone used this kit? will it work on our bike, especially the spring compressor.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270450302465&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_949
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post #69 of 175 Old 07-30-11, 13:27
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woeps didn't saw his post
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post #70 of 175 Old 07-30-11, 21:07
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Agreed. I can't stand those two handled compressors. It takes two people. A regular screw type compressor is the only way in my opinion.
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