The Definitive 675 Charging Diagnostic/Upgrade Thread - Page 97 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #961 of 966 Old 10-03-15, 22:41
socaltriple
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Hey guys - thanks so much to all the contributors here. Huge help so far. I wanted to post my own issues and see if anyone has comments.

My '10 Street Triple is not charging. After some investigation, I found that the plug leaving the stator is fried (just like on Bmore's bike).

Next, I tested the stator as described in this thread, and results were confusing. Each of the three stator pins tested as short to battery ground (0.00 ohm). So - that indicates that the stator is toast. However, with the bike running, I still find that the stator generates the correct voltage.

Can anyone explain this? It seems that the stator is still working, even though it's shorted.

The stator coils clearly look burned. Also, it appears that previous owner has already replaced the stator, and the output wires were pinched under the internal wire shield when it was reinstalled. Looks like a possibility that this could cause short. Pics attached.

The fact that the plug and stator were both burned tells me that everything should be replaced, including the R/R. R/R appears stock.

Thanks for any replies!
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post #962 of 966 Old 10-11-15, 06:29
nickknuch
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Bike: 2011 D675R
KMS: 15 000+
Use: everyday, all year round
checked VIN with dealer, no recall notices currently, or repairs in the past

History: I bought the bike 18 months ago, have never charged it since and it has started first time, every time. I stopped to get fuel today, bike wouldn't start. I jump started it, got home and measured the voltage of the battery, 11.5V, charged it for hours until the charger said "full", got a reading of 13.1V.

5 mins later, after packing the charger away, the reading was 12.8V. By the time I installed it in the bike it was 12.4V. I KNOW I have a bad battery, a new one has already been ordered. But I then followed the instructions of the OP to see if the battery was bad as a result of a bad R/R or stator, here are the results in order of the OP's instructions:

Cold resistance check on R/R: no shorts

Stator test: measuring 1-2, 2-3, 3-1 all readings are 0.4 ohms to 0.6 ohms

checking any one stator pin to engine ground terminal (i tried chassis, engine and negative battery terminal, not sure if this is what I was supposed to do) Also go <1ohm readings (OP's post says I shouldn't get any reading)

last test was checking AC output voltage from stator when Bike is running:

1-3: 18V (idle) 40V (5k rpm)
2-3: 19V (idle) 50V (5k rpm)
3-1: 14V (idle) 34V (5k rpm) <-- is this bad?

Battery voltage: 12.4V (bike off),
12.1V (ignition on),
12.0V (bike idling) to 12.4V revving bike

Do I need a new stator, new R/R or both?

UPDATE
Stator is definitely toast



Last edited by nickknuch; 10-21-15 at 06:27.
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post #963 of 966 Old 11-11-15, 21:32
Bmore
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it took me a super long time to finish this, but i bought the OP-recommended three pin connectors on ebay (cheap! like $5-8?) and finally made the connections without soldering any new wire. i got lucky there, just enough wire after cutting away the burnt connectors. however i am curious if the wire was damaged or made brittle from the excess heat, or if the wire-wrap that was also exposed to too much heat is bad for the wire - like it was almost like glue sticking to the individual threads of the wire...

also i kinda failed the first time around. on the male connector you really need to jam those 'female' leads that are crimped to the wires all the way in the male connector and lock it in place with the supplied part. i didn't use that locking part so i guess when i connected everything up, the battery was still not charging 'cause the 'male' pins pushed out the female pins and no good contact was made. so next morning i tried harder, locked in the wires, and all was good.

still, i'm nervous that the stator wires themselves may get too hot. do they normally get hot? and how hot should they be? it was definitely very warm to the touch. we test rode it anyway down and up i-95 to DC and back and my brother didn't catch on fire and the wires and connector don't look discolored or melted.

so all is well?

also, that new connector was beefy, rather fat, it took some trail and error to find just the right spot for it and the rest of the wires and tank hoses to allow the tank to rest as it should

sunday ride in maryland:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx7dZgrtW_E

i'm the Triumph Tiger

Last edited by Bmore; 11-11-15 at 21:37.
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post #964 of 966 Old 01-07-16, 00:50
Nila
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I had the 3 pin connector and it had problems and the wire just melted on me - now I'm just going to crimp the two wires directly together - less easy to take apart and hopefully much better connection that wont be liable to melt!
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post #965 of 966 Old 07-31-16, 03:55
fsfishnchips
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weakest link?

@Bmore :

did your new connector resolved the "weakest link" ?

I have the exact same symptons: R/R replaced under warranty, new Rick Stato 5 months ago. now the connector is melting down.

I am debating to replace just the connector, or Stator/Connect/RR all together so the system is working efficiently?
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post #966 of 966 Old 08-01-16, 14:17
Bmore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsfishnchips View Post
did your new connector resolved the "weakest link" ?
so far so good! the only issue was finding/making space for the new connector 'cause it's much beefier than stock

sunday ride in maryland:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx7dZgrtW_E

i'm the Triumph Tiger
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