$50 Track body work paint job

[amc1274]

It's amazing what you can do with a couple cans of Rustoleum paint and rollers. After reading this thread posted here a long time ago about a guy painting his Charger this I way I decided to give it a try. What the hell, I've got nothing to loose especially since it's for the track right? Without a long winded intro, here is the concept, end product and action shot . I'm just waiting on the vinyl lettering to say it's 100%. A special thanks to TZ for providing me a template to butcher with my awful PhotoCHOP skilz

[thunder900ss]

Pretty damn Sharp for DIY! Great Job!!

[decipral]

Looks pretty good. Excellent work.

[thunder900ss]

Just read the link! Sounds so easy! Did you find it as easy he did?

[amc1274]

Originally Posted by thunder900ss

Just read the link! Sounds so easy! Did you find it as easy he did?

it was as easy as he described. I was in a rush so I cut short the drying time and didn't do the wet sanding and it still came out good.

[Jstu202]

That came out real well, nice job man.

[Handi]

Did you really use a foam roller or a foam brush? Did you just go to Home Depot and pick a red that looked close? How many coats did you do? The guy on the link talks about painting metal and bondo, how well did the pain work on fiberglass?

Sorry for all the questions, but after reading that link, I think I might give it a try once my Catalyst bodywork arrives.

[Valentina]

Nice job and interesting link! Thanks for sharing!

[amc1274]

Originally Posted by Handi

Did you really use a foam roller or a foam brush? Did you just go to Home Depot and pick a red that looked close? How many coats did you do? The guy on the link talks about painting metal and bondo, how well did the pain work on fiberglass?

Sorry for all the questions, but after reading that link, I think I might give it a try once my Catalyst bodywork arrives.

No prob man. I get so much useful info from this site that I am happy to share the little I know/find

Yes I did use a roller. The key is the high density ones that are usually white. The cheapy yellow ones will give you lots of bubbles. I found that out as I could not find a high density corner roller when I was doing the yellow. It took a bit of working to get it in the crease correctly which would probably have been easier with a brush but had no time for that.

Home Depot was my one stop shop: paints, tray, tray liners, rollers, acetone, blue-tape and sand paper. There were only two reds that were even close so I chose the brighter one. I did two coats with the black over the entire body work, four coats of red and three of the yellow. It's my theory that red is a hard paint to get the results you want after painting my house AND the bike. It always takes more coats than other colors. I bought the quart size cans but really used less than what's in the tiny touch-up cans.The yellow can was virtually untouched so now I have enough paint left to have a new scheme every year for several years . I did this in my tiny bike garage (8'x4') as there is no mess like with the rattle cans and hung the parts from the ceiling to dry while my baby slept below at night.

The paint bonds to anything. I noticed the bond was much better after a few days probably because it dried correctly then. I had finished painting the yellow at 10 the night before my trackday and rubbed a tiny bit of it off with my leathers from the trailing edge of the fairing. You don't need a primer unless you really want to, just clean the plastics really good with the acetone to get rid of the oils and use latex gloves when painting. If you have the time, let each coat dry at least overnight.

[plc666]

Good Job. Well done, and thanks for the insight