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And now the electrical problems start ...

3K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  HiMile675 
#1 ·
I've had pretty good luck with my '14 675R since I purchased it. I haven't experienced many of the issues others here have (knock on wood).

But this morning I started having some strange electrical problems. Here's the series of events:

Last night - The bike had been on a battery tender for a while. Full charge. Turned the key ... nothing. No dash lights ... nothing. Turn the key off and on a few times ... nothing. I left the key in the on position and started looking around in the tail. After about 20 seconds or so, everything powered up as expected without me having to turn the key off and back on again.

This morning - powered and started up just fine. Started riding in to work and didn't have any issues for a while. Then ...

Approaching a stop light, down shift to second, and the bike dies (clutch still in). The dash was still on but the bike just quit running. Then the dash flashed off and back on ... i started it back up ... and off we go.

Then pulling in the parking deck, same thing. Clutch in, 2nd gear slow turning to park it ... engine dies. Dash still on, but after a few seconds it flicks off and back on.

Sounds electrical of course, but any ideas where I should start? Most recent mods were Akraprovic exhaust and a PCV + Auto Tune. Ground for both were run to the grounding block next to the battery. Power for the AT was taken from the brake light.

Any ideas on where to start? This sounds electrical, like a bad ground or something.
 
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#2 ·
Sounds like I have a similar issue, mine cuts out when it's idling when the bike is stopped or coming to a stop with the clutch in. I also have a PCV and it never happened until I installed it. I put my stand down then back up again and the problem went away for that ride. I haven't used my bike since :(
 
#3 ·
So the ride home was fun. It died a few times at lights. It would start to idle rough after about 15 seconds or so and got worse as things heated up. A few times it wouldn't start back up (didn't attempt to turn over).

Then the ignition started cutting out and coming back in at speed. Bucking all over the place ... I'm sure I looked like a straight up idiot to everyone.

Anyway ... I found the negative battery cable a little more loose than it should. Took the battery out, made sure it had a good charge, put it back in .... doesn't start. The dash lights up and all, but the started won't engage. Doesn't even click.

I had the following fault code when I got home: P1698 - Sensor 5v supply, circuit malfunction. I was hoping this was just due to the loose cable.

Any chance this is just a bad cell in the battery?
 
#4 ·
Sounds a lot like a loose connection at the kill switch. Difficult to diagnose because moving/jostling can intermittently cause the problem to go away. Simple to get in there and take a look. If you find a poorly soldered connection to the switch this can save you hours of troubleshooting. I would start there (no pun intended).
 
#5 ·
I've had pretty good luck with my '14 675R since I purchased it. I haven't experienced many of the issues others here have (knock on wood).

But this morning I started having some strange electrical problems. Here's the series of events:

Last night - The bike had been on a battery tender for a while. Full charge. Turned the key ... nothing. No dash lights ... nothing. Turn the key off and on a few times ... nothing. I left the key in the on position and started looking around in the tail. After about 20 seconds or so, everything powered up as expected without me having to turn the key off and back on again.

This morning - powered and started up just fine. Started riding in to work and didn't have any issues for a while. Then ...

Approaching a stop light, down shift to second, and the bike dies (clutch still in). The dash was still on but the bike just quit running. Then the dash flashed off and back on ... i started it back up ... and off we go.

Then pulling in the parking deck, same thing. Clutch in, 2nd gear slow turning to park it ... engine dies. Dash still on, but after a few seconds it flicks off and back on.

Sounds electrical of course, but any ideas where I should start? Most recent mods were Akraprovic exhaust and a PCV + Auto Tune. Ground for both were run to the grounding block next to the battery. Power for the AT was taken from the brake light.

Any ideas on where to start? This sounds electrical, like a bad ground or something.
I am having a similar issue, any solution to this?
 
#6 ·
Some quick googling shows that other bike shave a 5v fuel sensor. I could not find a wiring diagram that included the volts of the sensor for a 2014 D675R.

A faulty fuel sensor would cause stalling, surges, rough idle ect.

You also just replaced the PCV and AT.

I am seeing a correlation. Check the connections on everything. What did the installation instructions say about using the brake light as a power source? If it uses 12 volts I would wire it to the battery directly if you can do that (With an inline fuse).


Check the connections on everything fuel related, including the fuel pump. Check the connections for corroded or missaligned pins. I had one pin get pushed out the back and it only made contact under certain circumstances. I had to advance the female end of the pin forward to allow the male end of the pin to make contact. It was a free fix, I was about to replace the wiring harness.

Good luck and share your results!
 
#7 ·
Sounds like the same issue I am having with my 2006. Most fuel injected vehicles, our bikes included, receive 5V to most of the sensors. P1698 means that the 5V supply from the ECU is erratic. On my bike, after peeling back a substantial amount of tape from the ecu bundle under the tank, I found a splice where the wire from the ecu splits off into about five (I think) more wires, which are the individual wires that go to the sensors. Unfortunately, my issue wasn't at the splice, it was a bad connection at the ecu pin (still trying to find a ECU pin to fix it). You could also check at the individual sensors to see if they are getting a steady 5V while wiggling wires. If your only code is P1698 though, I am guessing it is at the splice or possibly the pin. The splice was about four inches from the ecu and there was also another splice with two or three wires another four or so inches from the bundle. Hope this helps. If anyone has a service manual for his year, there are pinout tests you can do as well.
 
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