I just picked up a completely stock '06 Daytona with under 7k miles on it.
Before this I had an '08 R6 which had some work done. It pulled like a freight train and I'm looking to do the same for this guy.
I'm wondering if what was done to the R6 would be as effective on the Daytona. If not, what give most bang for buck?
Here's what I'm thinking and some questions I have on each: Smog/SAI Block Off Plates: Where can I find the cheapest set? No reason why 2 pieces of CNC Aluminum should be more than $25 (I see I can just plug the nozzle, but i like it clean). Cat Removal: is it only the length of pipe under the belly? or is there some other restrictive stuff further back by the stock slip-on? EXUP removal: Does the bike still function while throwing an error code? Is there a diy fix-it dongle I can make? or must I drop money for a proper terminator? (for example check out the wire diagram half way down this page: http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/167193-easy-diy-exup-removal-06-r6.html) Air Filter Snorkel Removal - Does this bike have a restrictive snorkel in the air box that can be cut out? What is an Intake Flapper and why do people remove them? ECU Map I had a PCV + AutoTune in my r6 so I prefer PC over Bazzaz. Is PC3 comparable to PCV? What are my other options ie Anyone here reflash ecu's? Whats a Tuneboy?
Hows that for a summer project?
So, will the performance increase be worth the work? or are there other ways to spend my time and money?
(yes, suspension etc)
In which order should I do the above?
There may be delays between steps as I scrape together more casheesh.
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
In return Ill share pics of my old gf on my old bike (i miss the bike more
Smog/SAI Block Off Plates: Where can I find the cheapest set? No reason why 2 pieces of CNC Aluminum should be more than $25 (I see I can just plug the nozzle, but i like it clean).
Smog block off's can be picked from Riders Discount at a decent price. They are a site sponsor and look after forum members on price. Although I recommend not using the smog block offs and instead removing the SAI Valve then routing the crank case breather into the SAI hose. The Crank case breather is currently plumbed into the right hand side of your airbox. Do this little mod and you can expect to pick up an extra 1-2HP. The don't forget to block off the two holes in your airbox, the hole that had the SAI hose hooked up (left) and the crank case breather hole (right). This is a great mod as it is free.
Cat Removal: is it only the length of pipe under the belly? or is there some other restrictive stuff further back by the stock slip-on?
Cat and EXUP are the only real restrictions under there. There are some other restrictions under there which are the OEM collector and the outlet size from the collector which is 45mm. Most aftermarket full systems are 50.8mm outlets. If you have the time and want to take it this far you can remove the OEM Collector, EXUP valve and CAT then replace with a new merge collector with a 50.8mm outlet and run a straight pipe from your collector to the original link pipe or remove the undertail exhaust completely and run a lowboy system like mine.
EXUP removal: Does the bike still function while throwing an error code? Is there a diy fix-it dongle I can make? or must I drop money for a proper terminator? (for example check out the wire diagram half way down this page: http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-ho...val-06-r6.html)
Bike will still function but will throw a code. Get yourself an OBDII - USB cable and download TuneECU onto your computer (Free Software) you can then turn off the EXUP valve through this program and remove the error codes. Once you have the cable this is great because once again, its free.
Air Filter Snorkel Removal - Does this bike have a restrictive snorkel in the air box that can be cut out? What is an Intake Flapper and why do people remove them?
There is no restrictive snorkel or anything like that except for the intake flapper. The main purpose of the intake flapper is to reduce induction noise under load to pass emissions testing. Best to just remove it along with the valve and tank it is plumbed to. you need to partially disassemble the snorkel to get the flap out. then place a 10watt 50ohm resistor across the solenoid plug to trick the ecu into thinking its still there or just leave the solenoid plugged in and tape it up. For some reason you cant turn off the intake flapper within tuneecu on the 06 but can on all others up until the 13' model.
ECU Map I had a PCV + AutoTune in my r6 so I prefer PC over Bazzaz. Is PC3 comparable to PCV? What are my other options ie Anyone here reflash ecu's? Whats a Tuneboy?
Again you can use tuneecu for this (or tuneboy). Maps can be found on the tuneecu website and download for free. there are also custom maps floating around the forum here. If you go all out on your exhaust I suggest you load up the arrow full system map. This though will just get you in the ball park as it is a base tune. To get the absolute best from your bike you will need it dyno tuned by someone who uses the tuneecu software to mod fuel mapping or throw a power commander on and have it tuned.
So, will the performance increase be worth the work? or are there other ways to spend my time and money?
(yes, suspension etc) Its all worth it dude but as everyone knows suspension work is the single most best investment you can put into any bike (correctly sprung for rider weight, valved appropriately and dialled in)
For anything else, use the search function here on the forum, everything is here. This site was a gold mine for me when I was building mine up.
How does this sound:
1) SAI to Crank Case
2) Intake Flap Removal - Solenoid or resistor to remove error code.
Question 1:
Should I removed EXUP without de-catting and keeping stock slipon? Or is there a reason to wait and the the full exhaust at once.
Question 2:
I'll be using TuneECU to disable SAI, EXUP and a Resistor for the Intake Flap.
Any particular map I should use with this work done? or does remapping only matter after the cat has been removed?
Question 2:
I'll be using TuneECU to disable SAI, EXUP and a Resistor for the Intake Flap.
Any particular map I should use with this work done? or does remapping only matter after the cat has been removed?
You basically still have a stock intake & exhaust system, so you don't need any major map changes. I found the TOR (Triumph off-road) map was a little smoother than stock though, so you might give that a try. TuneECU is so easy, you can always go back to the previous map in a matter of minutes.
Now, Im having a hell of a time getting tuneecu to talk with my bike...
First I was getting "Ecu Not Responding"
After updating driver to what I think is right, now Im getting "Cannot Open the Port COMX" where X is any of my com ports 3, 4 or 5.
So, Im slowly reading through all the documentation as I burn sunlight.
Changed the oil and filter and was very surprised to see how much oil it takes. over 3qts?
It turns out the OBD2 cable I got is not compatible with the tunnecu. Im returning it to Amazon and got another one which should work.
In the meantime Im running with the CEL on...
New cable should arrive tomorrow.
Even more progress.
Cable came, removed cel's and updated my map.
Between stripping it down to get to the air box, flashing ecu and feeling the difference between maps I've gotten to know this bad boy quite a bit.
A few notes so far:
-Fuel line is a ***** to unplug. Two hand job so I proped the tank up with a stick.
-Not all obd2 vag cables work. The solid blue one did not for me, but the obe with a blue plug and clear cable did. I think there are some threads discussing this. It's related to the chip the cable uses.
-Reset Adaptation menu item is only available on TuneECU's Map Edit tab. Otherwise it's greyed out.
Only Advice I can give is if you want to be pedantic, seal up and gas purge your headers while your are welding. This will prevent boogers forming on the inside of the system.
Also not sure how much help it is but I did up a video of my exhaust build. I also used a cone eng merge collector with merge bullet.
Some more progress as I wait for my friends who weld to come back from burningman...
I installed the Arrow Slipon, left the Cat and Exup in for now and uploaded map 20400 ("Use with Arrow or Triumph high aftermarket silencer. Fuel up to E10. Minimum 95 RON (89 RON/MON) fuel.").
Even without removing the cat and exup the bike sounds MEAN!
The stock slipon gave it a nice whistling purr
But the Arrow slipon gives it a significantly louder, deep, more throaty grumble.
It pulls the RPMs a lot easier, but pops pretty frequently coming down.
Here's some before and after videos (which never do justice to the sound).
awesome work bro. you will love that arrow exhaust and the popping is normal from what i know. it sounds mean when riding. nice color as well. i used to have that color. it does look good.
A couple more sound clips.
(forgive poor quality mobile phone)
Fly by with Arrow Slipon BEFORE cat/exup delete:
Fly by with Arrow Slipon AFTER cat/exup delete:
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