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Not starting after alarm removal

2K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  MacBandit 
#1 ·
Hi all, need some urgent advice. I removed the alarm from my 2006 Daytona and now the bike won't start. Alarm has no indications on it to identify brand I'm afraid. Was wired in horribly as well and am genuinely surprised the bike didn't catch on fire (alarm can with the bike when I bought it). Anyway, here's where I'm up to..

Removed alarm as a whole unit. The only wires I had to actually cut were 4 wires that come from somewhere under the tank (haven't yet life tank to follow as was in a hurry). These are blue, light blue, black and black with white stripe. The went from under the tank to a plug that plugged into the alarm module (which made me think they were part of the alarm and without the module connected leaving them not connected to anything wouldn't have any effect). I cut them as I didn't have time to lift the tank and follow them.

When I turn the keys on, the bike does everything as normal. Gauges come on, fuel pumps cycle, lights come on etc. When I press the starter I can hear the relay click but no cranking at all. The starter relay clicks, the lights drop in brightness and that's it.. No error codes showing up in tuneecu..

Any advice? Maybe I need to join two of the currently not connected wires??

(don't know how to upload pictures on a mobile)

Thanks heaps!
 
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#2 ·
Terry,
You are going to have to get under the tank and see where those wires go. Alarm systems usually have an interruption circuit fuel or starter. Those wires might lead there but you are going to have to trace them to find out for sure. Did the bike come with any remotes or fob's that have part numbers on them? Sometimes you can cross reference this to the main system. Pictures would greatly help. I am not familiar with the mobile upload process for posting photos.
 
#3 ·
Yeah, that's my job for today. I gather it must be something like an interruption circuit on the starter given that everything else seems to initialise when I turn on the key. Just not sure where each wire goes normally.. Will update once I have the tank off though.

No part numbers etc on the module. The remote has a number but google hasn't returned anything on that. The remote looks similar to a mongoose alarm system though but I have my doubts that's what it is.

I downloaded an app so can now add photos :) will upload more once tank is off.
 
#5 ·
.... The only wires I had to actually cut were 4 wires that come from somewhere under the tank (haven't yet life tank to follow as was in a hurry). These are blue, light blue, black and black with white stripe. The went from under the tank to a plug that plugged into the alarm module ...
As others already advised you MUST find out what OEM colour wires those go to. No point in guessing or speculating.
But certainly they have been used to cut one or probably two circuits as immobilizer and you need to find which ones to re-establish original connections.
 
#7 ·
Alright, so I've taken the tank off and have made some progress. The four wires that were previously unknown have now all been traced back to their source. Please see the attached image and descriptions below. I've colour coded everything to make it easier to explain.

Just a reminder, I'm trying to restore the bike back to factory so I can start it again so need to know which wires to remove or join etc.

1. TWO RED ARROWS
These two wires both seem to connect to a red and white wire that looks to have been cut. I presume I just need to re-join this red and white wire? It runs just in front of the main big fuse at the front of the rider seat / back of the tank.

2. GREEN ARROW
This looks to just be a grounded wire which I presume I can just remove completely?

3. YELLOW ARROW
This blue wire is unknown to me. Looks to be standard (I presume) as it runs into a cable shroud that goes further beneath all of this mess. The drawn on blue line shows the path of this blue wire and the dotted blue line shows where it enters the cable shroud. No idea what to do with this one??? Ground it maybe?

4. PINK CIRCLE
On another note, having removed the tank, I came across this. Again, I AM SURPRISED I HAVE NOT CAUGHT ON FIRE!!! This plug is so burnt out I'm not surprised I've gone through three batteries in as many months. Need to replace this before I install my brand new Shorai. Can someone please confirm what plug I could replace this with? And what the pin layout is? II dont trust what I see on this bike at the moment...

Thanks again for your help guys!

Terence
 

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#9 ·
Thanks for your willingness to help! I've taken some more photos.. See links below for what I hope are high resolution enough.

The wires indicated by the two red arrows I believe just need to be connected together again so no issues there.

What I need to know is can I just remove the black grounded wire indicated by the green arrow (pretty sure I can), and what do I do with the blue wire indicated by the yellow arrow.
NOTE: All wires indicated by arrows were the ones from earlier that led to the alarm unit module.

As another note, you'll see that one of the plugs has completely burnt through and is absolutely melted. Pretty sure the terminals within the plug have shorted as they are basically melted into the plastic housing. I've found a plug to replace this with but I'd like to know whether any of these wires (three going into plug, three coming out of plug) are actually meant to be joined or should all three be isolated from each other?

https://ibb.co/hj6DSk
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https://ibb.co/g1yGf5
https://ibb.co/fYCbf5
https://ibb.co/fD8tSk
https://ibb.co/kKmrDQ
https://ibb.co/jhOSnk
https://ibb.co/dRxL7k
https://ibb.co/nrR2L5
https://ibb.co/mrFwf5
 
#10 ·
Yes reconnect the white with red tracer. That's for the starter relay. I'll have to research the blue wire. The melted connector is the stator output to the r/r. You can replace it with a metripac style sealed connector is you have the tools or if you're good at soldering just solder the wires together. There is no order they're all just legs off the stator with the same output. Also those wires from the stator aren't oem someone has replaced the stator with an aftermarket one.
 
#11 ·
Yes reconnect the white with red tracer. That's for the starter relay. I'll have to research the blue wire. The melted connector is the stator output to the r/r. You can replace it with a metripac style sealed connector is you have the tools or if you're good at soldering just solder the wires together. There is no order they're all just legs off the stator with the same output.
Thanks so much!! Is solder (with heatshrink) alright to use given the vibration of the bike? I always thought a harder joint like solder would be less lasting? I'm comfortable soldering well as I've done it for years.

Just to confirm though, the three black wires that are inputs to that connector are able to be connected to any three of the black wires that are outputs from the connector? but they should definitely be isolated from each other and NOT shorted right?

Thanks so much for your help so far!
 
#12 ·
It's true that a proper crimp is better than solder. However in this situation where the wires aren't being flexed it'll do fine. Yes any of those 3 wires can connect to any of the matching 3 wires and don't let them short. Each wire run 60-100+vac so you don't want them to short to each other or to anything else. Heat shrink and wrapped and secured so it can't wear against anything sharp.
 
#13 ·
Perfect, thank you so much! Really appreciate your help. I've reconnected the starter solenoid wire and have removed the burnt connector. Hopefully the new stator I put in a while back is still fine. I'll do a proper charging test once all back together. Given the tiny clearance on one side of the black wires crimping will be much easier than making a reliable solder joint so will do that tomorrow morning when the store opens.

Hopefully the blue wire isn't too hard to identify.. I'm not seeing anything obvious jump out at me from the wiring diagram.

Thanks again!
 
#15 ·
Thanks. I just finished with the stator wires and the red/white relay. Bike cranks now which is good. Wouldn't actually start though but this could be because I didn't have the gas tank connected???

I had a look around and from what I can tell the red/white wire is from the starter solenoid. The starter relay which, according to the manual, should have a blue wire attached to it is located by the fuse box on the LH fairing infill panel. According to manual also, the blue wire from this should split and run to the headlight switch (handlebars) and headlights. My headlights seem to work normally. I have no issues with them turning off or anything like that. What confuses me is why this blue wire would run via under the tank? Seems like that would just be routing it back on itself again.... And if it does come from the starer relay, where on earth would it connect to as it's no way long enough to reach back to the front of the bike... It does actually look like a factory wire though... :|:|:|:|:|:|:|

Any thoughts?
 
#16 ·
Got to the bottom of it! I got curious so took off the LH fairing to investigate the fuse box and starter relay. Nothing out of the ordinary about the starter relay but I noticed a shroud cable tied to the loom that exited the fuse box with a blue wire running through it. A continuity test showed it was the same wire as mentioned earlier. Did some more pulling apart and it turns out they had spliced a wire to the blue / yellow wire exiting the fuse box (headlight fuse wire) so I guess it must have been acting as an ignition switch for the alarm system. Can't believe the poor workmanship!

Anyway, temp mounted the tank and the bike fired right up. Going to pull her more apart and clean her from the inside out as it looks like this hasn't been done in forever!

Thanks so much for your help Mac! You are a legend!
 
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