The bulbs in the top pic are HID, looks like a PnP H7 . All the wires coming out of the back of the cap are not stock. If you have HID bulbs, that means you also have ballasts and a harness somewhere.
The bulb retainer is the two pronged silver wire clip. The black rubber part is the HID bulb base and does not separate from the glass bulb. The halogen H7 bulb in the bottom pic had a silver metal base.
Did you test the bulb function while out of the bike? Ballast for power output? Depending on the kit used, some parts are cheap and fail very easily.
If you would rather have a manual with photos instead if drawings, try the Haynes service manual. There was one for sale in the classifieds not long ago.
But here's a labeled drawing of the rear of the headlight housing.
Thanks so much alloneUP. Now a couple of things make more sense! Bulb function doesn't work at all with engine running or ever. The right hand side works when I hit the high beam switch. It's not great you can hardly see its on in daylight.
You can test the ballast with a multimeter. Keep the ballast hooked up to the harness, unplug the bulb, turn on bike power, and check for voltage at the ballast power output plug. The side that connects to the bulb.
That's a generic 35W HID ballast. You can find similar replacements super cheap on ebay, if you want to go that route. They all have standardized plugs, both input and output, so any brand should be interchangeable with what you have.
i would have to take the fairing off to say for sure, i guess, but the cables coming out of the back of the headlight cover on the right side are exactly the same as those on the left so i;m assuming its the same as the left
also, is my right high beam and my left low beam or are the both supposed to be both. when i hit the high beam switch the right light comes on. it just doesn't seem very bright.
so if this left side is low beam, is there a wattage range i should stay in , or is it all about angles rather than wattage
i'd be happy with halogens but i suppose its easy to stick with this set up now its installed..?
It all depends on how your bike is wired, what/if any modifications have been done to the wiring. The OEM wiring has left as low beam always on, and right comes on as high beam in addition to the left low beam.
You'll want to get another 35W ballast IF that is faulty. If both sides are HID, you should be able to switch the bulbs to test if the one is good.
Can you take some more pics please? Front of headlight? Right side components if possible? Could be a simple fix, either replacing just a bulb or ballast.
ive just paid a visit to the auto electrical place that i've only had good experiences with.
he reckons the ballast has overheated. he could tell by looking at it.
the other side must be the same. its making a noise now when i turn it on. attached a photo below of the right light. it is nothing special !
these guys reckon they have a lot of people coming in with this sort of thing and its not uncommon for this type of unit to last 3 or 4 months.
they seem to think best thing is maybe to switch to LEDs -.if i don't want this to happen again.... though hes going to do some research and testing and get back to me after the weekend.
i do trust him but then again i suppose what they told me is in their best interest, ,,?2781
Those look like the OEM projectors. One thing to consider, the OEM ones are designed to work with halogen bulbs, not HID or LED. Even a millimeter or two off the intended focus point inside the projector can drastically reduce light quality. You can buy the best, most expensive HID/LED bulbs, but if they weren't designed to work in the projector, it'll perform sub-par. Rant over.
Going LED vs. replacing the current HID components won't differ too in price much.
Check out this website:
Theretrofitsource.com
Ask them any questions or for advice. Lots of good stuff there. Not affiliated with them in any way, just a very happy repeat customer.
I bought an HID plug n play kit when I first started looking into headlight upgrades, very similar to yours. The output was much better than stock though. Have you tried adjusting your projectors? Are the bulbs seated properly? Did you test the wiring for power going into that right side?
Currently I have Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 projectors, Morimoto XB55 ballasts, and a custom wiring harness. A bit more expensive than the eBay generic parts, but much more reliable, backed by warranty etc.
You can test the alignment by parking in front of a large wall (side of building, garage door etc) about 25ft away. You should be able to see the light beam cutoff line. From there it is just using the screws to adjust the point of aim.
Realised that on the left side I still had the old connector. Plugged in a $2.50 h7 halogen and it works! It's better than the right side [emoji3] went to the right side to try to do the same and realised it has a different set up. It's a h9 build in there. They've removed the swing wire clip which holds the bulb in. It looks like this ;
Any idea of how to convert that connector back to stock so I can go back to halogens?
The right side should be the same process as the left, just a different bulb type. The left projector is made to accept an H7 bulb, and the right is made to accept an H9. In this pic, the stuff circled in red is your stock wiring. Pull all the HID stuff out. You should be able to plug an H9 right into that connector and fit it to the projector opening.
The little spring clips can be found at auto stores or ebay. For the time being, bend a paperclip or something similar to keep the bulb seated.
If the halogen bulbs work, you can remove all the HID components, ballasts bulbs etc.
The HID wiring should just run back to the battery for power. You can remove any associated wires. Should be all set.
Changed mine on Monday. $2.50 bulb from ebay (Darwin) lasted a few thousand kms
Have replaced with Narva, so I'll see how that one goes.
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