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Opinions on 54,000 miles service

2K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  orionengnr 
#1 ·
Hi all, just looking for opinions on doing my 54,000 miles service, have got all the parts in, apart from new fuel lines and fork oil as recommended as it increases the cost quite a bit (would need a fork compression tool + the actual fuel lines), I do intend to do everything else on the maintenance check sheet.

They would have last been done on the 24,000 miles service I guess, which was quite some time ago, thing is, fuel lines are still pliable and the forks feel fine, what are people's thoughts on this?

I know i'll have to do it eventually and the idea of that horrible grey oil does bother me, just not enough for now I guess!

For reference this is a street bike, it's not really ridden all that hard, anything outside of the service spec I should consider doing?

Cheers!
 
#2 ·
Although Im capable of servicing front forks I always give it to my shop to do. Its just one thing I dont need to worry about and its usually reasonably priced. Definitely get the rear shock serviced as well.

I probably wouldnt replace the fuel lines unless its starting to show signs of needing to be replaced on a street bike.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for your reply, I hadn't even considered the rear shock (neither have triumph on the service sheet I picked up either!) although it has been making a few noticeable creaking noises recently, anyone know what a shock service involves on an '07? Can't say I've paid any attention to it, is it a gas jobby?

That's the thing, fork oil changes I can do, I just don't want to pay the money for the fork/cartridge compression tool, perhaps I'll have a chat with my mechanic about cost, probably just pull the forks out and take them to him.

As long as I don't hear "the fuel lines have a bad habit of doing X, Y and Z" I'll definitely be leaving them alone, bet they're expensive proprietary clip types.

Cheers
 
#4 ·
The thing is you dont just want to replace the oil at that millage. You need the whole fork broken down, inspected, cleaned, and all seals replaced. They might even recommend swapping the valve out. To do that you'll need a decent set of specialized tools which will increase the cost, and unless you are at the track swapping springs and oil its not worth it.

The rear shock requires even more specialized tools, it will require pumps and gas to do correctly. Again it should be broken down, inspected, cleaned, etc.

Taking them out yourself and bringing it to a proper race shop should only cost 300-400 bucks.

Here are racetechs prices:
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Fk Labor
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Sk Labor

Most shops are inline with that. Hope that helps.
 
#5 ·
So you're assuming the forks were last done at 24k? 30k is a long time without a service, they're definitely due. A standard oil change by my definition (and most shops for that matter) is to separate the fork tubes, clean the internals and get every last bit of old oil out. As long as everything cleans up and works smoothly, no need to replace any parts unless you want it tailored for your weight & riding style. If the seals look old and cracked, replace them, but I only replace them when they leak. Same with the dust seals, but if you're keeping them, thoroughly clean them as well.

The shock is another matter. Is it original, spring and all? A first gen's spring is too stiff unless you're 250+ lbs and the valving leaves a bit to be desired. You should decide whether you want it quick and easy with aftermarket or if you want the OEM shock rebuilt, revalved and resprung for your weight. Otherwise, a simple rebuild with oil & gas isn't really worth it on a stock shock in my opinion. Personally, I'd leave it in and save up for a Nitron.

As for the fuel line, it's pretty apparent when they've gone bad. I'd leave it too.
 
#8 ·
Bugger I didn't realise there was so much tech in the rear shock, as far as I'm aware it's never been changed, but some pretty random things have been done to this bike over the years looking at the pile of invoices I've got, PO paid over £600/$800 to have the OEM header and mid pipe replaced... with an OEM header and mid pipe!? Am I missing something?

Hadn't considered the valves might wear in the forks... I'll have to get a quote from a local specialist. To be fair for around town, the shock is stiff I'm about 175lbs, but in the twisties it feels like I'm on rails, everything feels really planted.

Yea last time I changed fork oil was on a bike with 16,000 miles and it was a horrible grey colour and stank of fish, so I honestly dread to think!

Thanks guys, I think all things considered, I'd really prefer not to wear the forks/shock to the point of no return, I'll have to find the cash to get them done by someone, I'm guessing there will be a considerable difference if I were to take them somewhere and ask them to service and inspect and set up for my weight for street/twisties.
 
#9 ·
Proper race shops should be able to do it for a reasonable cost, but I'd definitely do both the forks and the shocks like everyone else said. Springs make a huge difference too and you never know how well a bike can be set up until it's properly set up for your weight. A lot people don't touch their suspension but it's worth it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#10 ·
Haven't had the Street Triple R forks apart yet--only 2200 miles.

But I have had Ducati forks apart. Watched some YouTube vids--looks like different USD forks require different degrees of disassembly tooling. I had a friend make the tool for me.
This wasn't the vid, but the tool looks similar.


After using it, I find that I could have done without it.

I would do some more research and see if I could disassemble the forks without special tools. But I would want to change that oil were I you.

Now as far as the shock goes, I would remove it and pay someone to rebuild it...or try to find one of those $400 Daytona Ohlins take-offs I keep reading about. :)
 
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