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Seeking advice on 'broken bike'

4K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  kisertn 
#1 · (Edited)
I have a 2015 675R. I am a quarter way through a 2-day trackday weekend and my baby is broken. While I do work on my bike, the engine and transmission are a mystery to me, and I suspect that one of those is where my problem lies.

I was on the track and coming out of a turn when I went to apply gas. The sensation I received was akin to a 'false neutral' but yet the bike could still go forward on it's own, albeit slowly. I tried shifting gears, but nothing improved. In first gear, the transmission engages but the wheel dies not spin with the force it normally does, and it sounds as if I am over-revving it. Is that a blown transmission?

My bike is not quite two years old, would something like that (if it is that) be covered by warranty? I hit my 2-year mark late Feb. 2017.

Signed 'Down and Out at Autobahn CC". :-(
 
#3 ·
Thanks! Someone at the track said the same so I am sure hoping that's all it is. I was seeing $$$$ and now it may just be a couple of hundred to fix if that is the case.

I've never had a clutch slip on me, so did not recognize this. All I knew was that it would not go as it should and I immediately thought the worst.

I appreciate your advice, thank you!
 
#4 ·
I agree with Dr.

Sounds like the clutch is slipping. And yes, warranty.


---------------------------------

2014 Triumph Daytona 675R 2/22/14 - 8/22/15

2016 Aprilia RSV4 RR 8/29/15 - ???

2006 Honda CBR 600RR Track Only 1/02/16 - ???
 
#7 ·
Yeah, I was thinking warranty when I had assumed it might be the transmission. I understand that clutch issues would be on me. I'll probably just fix it myself. I changed the shift-star out last winter and had to pull the clutch out so I have some experience with it.

The bike is relatively new - just shy of 6,000 miles. I've completed about 8 full track days. It never occurred to me that the clutch would be the issue due to the fact that it's all so new. When I pulled the clutch plates out last winter they looked fine. Guess I'll see what they look like when I take them out soon. I guess it could be the springs. The clutch lever itself feels fine however. Just won't know till I take it apart.
 
#8 ·
2013 model here with 15,000 miles and I find it strange that your clutch is already slipping. I commute and do track days on my bike also and my clutch is perfect. Either way let us know, possible you might have not put that clutch back together correctly after the shift star install? Maybe something came loose.
 
#10 ·
Possibly. But I've put on 1,500 miles and attended the equivalent of 7 full track days this year (I say "full" because I've actually registered for more things happened that caused me to not complete part or all of the day). Also, and I am no expert on this stuff, but I didn't see how anything could come "loose" in that part of the bike. It all seemed to require a very tight and accurate re-fit in order to go back together.

But, we'll see. As I no longer ride on the street, and this was my last track weekend of this year, I have some time to open it up and take a look at it. I don't know if I will get it open today but if not today then in the next two weekends I'll have it apart and then hopefully have some idea of what it was that failed me.

I hav a landscape trailer in which I transport the bike and, in 1st gear, the bike will roll forward (although it sounds like more rims than normal) but when hit the bottom of the trailer's ramp, it simply would not go up the ramp (and I was too chicken to give it a ton of gas for fear it would get away from me). So, based on what people have described, it sounds like the clutch is not fully engaging - just can't imagine why.

I'll post back when I find out, in case the answer may do someone else good in the future.
 
#9 ·
Even a track bike shouldn't wear out a clutch that fast. Check the cable adjustment first (I'm sure you already did), then talk to your dealer and see what they think Triumph's reaction to a warranty claim on a clutch on a track bike will be.
 
#12 ·
Actually I did not check the cable adjustment but, the reason it never crossed my mind is because the clutch felt fine. I remember when I first put my clutch back together last winter and the clutch lever definitely did not feel right, so I took it all back apart to figure out what I did wrong. But this time the lever felt fine. Maybe it's a matter of degrees though - wow, wouldn't that be a shame to realize that all I had to do was adjust the clutch cable adjuster? Part of me wants it to be something that simple and the other part will have me calling myself a stupid ass if that is all it is. In my defense, this is the first time this has ever happened to me but, once someone told me it was the clutch I probably should have played with the adjuster even though the lever felt normal to me.

I try not to go to Triumph for anything so, if it is the clutch I'll just work on it myself over fall/winter and avoid them. My plan is to only go to Triumph for engine and transmission issues as I don't want to deal with any of that stuff (not yet anyway).

I am really going to kick myself if I adjust that cable adjuster and it starts working. And yet, I'm hoping it would be that easy. I'll post back by end of day. In any event, I should have thought of that and did not, so thanks for pointing it out. I'll know next time.
 
#13 · (Edited)
No warning I detected. I was riding in 3 previous track sessions that morning and did not have any clue something was about to happen. I had just slowed down from a high-speed straightaway for a 90-degree turn and attempted to accelerate out of the turn when I realized I had no power. At first i thought it was a false Neutral but a quick glance told me that was not the case and it was at that instant I thought the worst. I looked for any smoke or fluids but seeing nothing I kept trying to give it gas. It would move forward but with virtually no torque. Changing gears did nothing but this started in 2nd and all I did was drop to 1st. I just exited the track and made it back to my pit. Have not seen anything else amiss. I did put it on a rear stand and put the bike in 1st; the rear wheel is simply not turning at the rate it should.

Everyone saying it is the clutch makes sense. I just can't imagine however what could have broken. And now I have been given the notion that maybe it was just a clutch lever adjustment that I might have needed. I'll test that today. Fingers-crossed: just not sure what I am crossing them for :) On the one hand problem solved and I am an idiot, on the other hand not solved and, well, I guess I am still an idiot for not trying that at the track. Oh well, here's to hoping adjusting the cable works. LOL
 
#14 ·
I agree, way too early for the clutch to wear out unless you're doing full-on race starts every time you leave hot pit at the track. Check that the two nuts down by the clutch are tight and adjusted properly. Also check adjustment up by the lever. Do you have aftermarket levers or did you remove the OEM one to work on your clutch?

If you still have street plastics, no reason the dealer needs to know the bike has been to the track for a warranty investigation. Besides, track days don't void the warranty, only racing.

FYI spent clutch plates don't always look spent. You need to measure them with vernier calipers. Don't know what spec is but it's in the maint manual.
 
#18 ·
I'd 2nd this.

Usually not a catastrophic fail for a slipping clutch. If something major came apart inside the clutch it likely would've been a bit more dramatic than just no torque.

No grinding or odd sounds? Just strictly a lack of drive?
 
#22 ·
Well, it's not the front sprocket nor the clutch. I noticed an engine light so checked its code and it was "P1698 - Sensor 5v supply, circuit malfunction". However, after clearing it, it is not coming back.

My guess, and it is totally a guess at this point, is that I have (or had) a frayed exposed wire that created a short and the loss of power. I had moved the pig-tail I had installed on the battery. I checked it out and while i see the outer shell is rubbed off in a section, I don't see any exposed wire.

In any event, the clutch looked fine. I really don't see anything amiss on the bike. The only clue being this engine light. Perhaps me sitting above the battery caused the fraying wire to short and now that I am testing it off the bike, I can't get the engine light to come on again. Total guess until I get the bike back together, get the pig tail removed, check for any other wires that might be shorting out, and then take it for a ride.

This is not the part about motorcycles that I like. It's fun to upgrade. It's not fun to chase a problem.
 
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