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CANT remove engine braking

7K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Plasmablaster 
#1 ·
hi so i had a custom tune a long time ago but i cant figure either the guy how to removed engine braking!! so its a 2012 street triple with 20591 base map.

- what really happen is as soon as you close throttle 0% tps from redline to 5000 rpm the ecu will switch to 2% like kind of whats program in the map ( TPS reset have been done ) and afr is more than 20... and then from 5000 rpm to 2000 rpm it will decrease gradually to o% tps but will be very rich 11 to 12 afr so theres barely any engine braking from 5000 to idle.

- i had try adding lot of fuel in 0-1 and 2 tps table without any result
- try to zero f/l switch either not working
- had fuel in map sensor fuel table not working
- always reset adaptation till the light and drive many cycle with each try
- try 20588 map but same thing

i really want to remove engine braking 13000 to 5000 rpm and add some in 5000 to idle.
any input will be appreciated
i really thing the problem is the map/ecu configuration

my bike mod
02 sensor deactivated
sai deactivated

let me know before winter !!!! lol
 
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#2 ·
Also i adjusted tps to 0.60 volts when the enginebwas warm.
But at cold engine start it will read 0.63/0.64 then will be back to 0.60 warm
Also the reset adaptation case will not be green / reset at each engine start
I dont know if its because the o2and the sai are deactivated in tuneecu
 
#4 ·
Removed engine braking? That'd be a slipper clutch...

You can't electronically tune out engine braking
That is not 100% true, I can adjust mine on my panigale with several pushes of a button, but it also works in conjunction with the slipper clutch..
@gab...
i really want to remove engine braking 13000 to 5000 rpm and add some in 5000 to idle. any input will be appreciated
i really think the problem is the map/ecu configuration.

Your fueling map plays a part in this, as does NOT having a slipper clutch.. slipper clutch alone, makes a definite difference in engine braking feel, and if you get a custom tune your tuner should be able to adjust some fueling settings to give you LESS engine braking.
The difference between a stock 2010 daytona I rode after doing some work on it, then my bike 2011 with slipper and fueling mods done to reduce engine braking were very noticable.
On the 09+ street triple I am not sure if triumph used the same method to help aid in engine braking as they did on the 09+ daytona.. the throttle bodies will stay slightly open to help keep the rear from locking up, a elcheapo not so great version of a slipper clutch.. MV agusta did the same thing.
 
#5 ·
It seems that Ducati EBC will mechanically reduce engine brake by opening the throttle bodies more, though not injecting more fuel and electronically by increasing engine RPMs if it detects wheel spin.

The Panigales software supports things like clutch-less downshifts, has a slipper and the necessary sensors and servos to get things working in concert.

His '12 Striple doesn't.. hence my comment. Ok I could have been more specific that his bike as is cannot electronically reduce engine bake effect.
 
#6 ·
It seems that Ducati EBC will mechanically reduce engine brake by opening the throttle bodies more, though not injecting more fuel and electronically by increasing engine RPMs if it detects wheel spin.

The Panigales software supports things like clutch-less downshifts, has a slipper and the necessary sensors and servos to get things working in concert.

His '12 Striple doesn't.. hence my comment. Ok I could have been more specific that his bike as is cannot electronically reduce engine bake effect.
On the 09-12 daytona's the computer (electronically) causes the throttle bodies to stay open a bit, this although mechanical is caused but the computer (electronics).. they are all linked.
The kawi's with kit ecu's used to add fuel to reduce engine braking on deceleration, and this was fully programable..
 
#8 ·
so ive been able to remove the below 5000 rpm lack of engine braking by playing with the fuel table and f/l switch.

BUT i cant figure the 5000 to 13000 rpm FUEL CUT OFF. tuneecu read 2 % tps if anyone have a map for st3 that work let me know ill give it a try
 
#9 ·
so ive been able to remove the below 5000 rpm lack of engine braking by playing with the fuel table and f/l switch.

BUT i cant figure the 5000 to 13000 rpm FUEL CUT OFF. tuneecu read 2 % tps if anyone have a map for st3 that work let me know ill give it a try
Well if adding braking is what your after, cant help you there and misread your 1st post.. personally do not like engine braking.
 
#11 ·
I doubt you will be able to remove engine braking. Engine braking on my RSV4 RR is controlled via the ecu and throttle bodies which are fly by wire. The ECU keeps the throttle bodies open and possibly modifies the fueling (not for sure) to reduce engine braking when you let off the throttle. The 675 throttle bodies are cable/analog controlled.


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2014 Triumph Daytona 675R 2/22/14 - 8/22/15

2016 Aprilia RSV4 RR 8/29/15 - ???
 
#14 ·
I found this thread as I was looking for something different. I have some information that might help (if you haven't found any solution yet) you but I don't know exactly how it could be used:

To begin with, I must say that I have a ST-R with "lowboy" Arrow and I also notice the difference in engine braking below and above 5K RPM. The 5K+ RPM high engine braking annoys me very much.

So here's my experience:

I had some electrical problems about three months ago and it involved disconnecting the battery in order for some repairs and minor mods (lights and switches) to be made. When the bike was put together again and I took it out for a spin I noticed something very strange: Throttle response at low throttle openings was way tamer than usual but it was also smoother and more consistent, and closing the throttle at higher RPMs did not produce the extremely annoying "choking" effect. I liked both the tamer throttle response (the bike was still plenty powerful at higher openings) and of course the vanished choke.

After some riding and especially after the 40K Km service though everything came back as before: Fierce but slightly inconsistent throttle response/torque progression at low throttle openings and the annoying engine braking at 5K+ RPMs.

Now from what I've read, disconnecting the battery reset the permanent a/f adjustment table of the ECU. So I tried to disconnect the battery again but 10 seconds didn't do the trick (I've been trying to remember to disconnect it overnight after a ride to see what'll happen but I keep forgetting doing that).

The reason why this could be of concern to you is that the bike DID exhibit better behavior and it's not impossible to achieve it. Personally, if I don't find another solution I might place a relay+switch on the battery and simply cut the circuit every time I step off the bike in order to always keep it smooth and tame.
 
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