This is not a end all test, but something i thought some of you might like to see. I am sure there is other variables, such as air filter design, overal size etc etc.. But some good reading...
Thanks for the link, very interesting. It seems my MWR is pretty crappy at 1/2 the flow rate of the better ones. Time to look into the Sprint and K&N race filters.
I'd like to know what version of the MWR filter they tested. I may have missed it in the report but went back twice to make sure. I have the MWR HE filter which claims to flow better yet only need a cleaning once a year. It's their middle tier filter.
Oiled filters actually work better as they get dirty as the holes plug up. So if you are worried about dirt getting through don't get one. There is another test out there I'll have to find that shows the amount of dirt these let through even on a freshly oiled filter. The OEM paper filter has much finer filtration and that is why they flow less air. Although it's not that much less because they have more surface area due to having much more pleats then a gauze filed could have. Personally unless you are chasing a championship then I wouldn't bother. You'd be surprised how little dust it takes to start wearing the intake valve seats.
I want to point out that my information and experience is for filters that use gauze for the filter media i.e. K&N. If they use foam then this probably doesn't apply. A mult part foam filter can filter as well as paper with more air flow.
I want to point out that my information and experience is for filters that use gauze for the filter media i.e. K&N. If they use foam then this probably doesn't apply. A mult part foam filter can filter as well as paper with more air flow.
Ill have to look into BMC and see if they are indeed foam. I dont mind maintaining it. Learning to clean/oil it but id rather not deal with the possibility of debris getting in and causing larger issues. I can only assume the BMC street would have more in it to hinder debris from passing.
Once again I'll say unless you are chasing a championship and get the of a second count it's not worth it. Keep in mind we're talking a percentage of hp and the bikes that usually make a significant 3-4hp improvement are making 150+hp. I've never seen or heard of a Daytona seeing more than a 1-2hp on a built motor. Stock bikes usually see less.
Damn I didnt realize that. Mine is stock with an Arrow Slip on. Will be upgrading to the full TI Akra later this year. Thinking I might hold off on the filter. Thanks for the info dude.
How many miles it reduces the life of your motor will be completely dependent on the conditions it's ridden in. If you are talking "seasons" as in track riding you're not going to get 50k out of even a stock motor.
I've had customers with BMWs loose intake valves in 20k miles running K&N air filters. Granted these were air/oil cooled motors but these same bikes stock typically went easily over 200k miles without any major engine issues.
How many miles it reduces the life of your motor will be completely dependent on the conditions it's ridden in. If you are talking "seasons" as in track riding you're not going to get 50k out of even a stock motor. .
Hell logging 50,000 of track miles in itself would be a lifetime goal for the vast majority of people, let alone doing it with one bike..
Worrying about a taken care of aftermarket air filter killing your motors longevity is like worrying about using mobil 1 synthetic vs motorex full synthetic oil. Completely pointless.
1. The "race" filters do increase power by up to 3hp depending on the build of the bike
2. If you don't oil a KN filter then you have a very good chance of getting dirt past the filter and into the valve train. (also making sure that you properly seal the air box is key)
3. If oil'd filters didn't work in sandy conditions then just about EVERY dirt bike sold today wouldn't come with one from the factory.
Yes dirt bike filters work but they are a multipart foam filter. Not a thin gauze filter. I did say that I think multipart foam filter better then even most paper filters. The multipart foams have varying hole sizes and no direct passages through them like gauze does. I've seen clean uncoiled K&N filters that when held up to the light would let light through. In other words the minimum filtered size was about the size of a grain of sand.
We've used the BMC race the last two years at Daytona (13 and 14) with only the minimum for oil on the filter material. This track has a horrible amount of sand on the surface and the bodywork looks like a sandblaster hit it after the race. There was no sand or debris in the airbox. I've seen bikes in the past where dirt did make it into the airbox. Each time I've seen this either the seal on the box, or the seal between the filter and the box has been damaged or is not present.
An interesting read, but flow bench data doesn't always (or even often) equate to horsepower. Steady state flow is one thing, flow into or out of an engine is something very different.
Slightly tangental to the topic of increased air flow through the filter - Is there a need to adjust the tune if you are installing a less restrictive filter or is the limit of flow determined by the exhaust system (assuming a reasonably clean oem filter)?
Slightly tangental to the topic of increased air flow through the filter - Is there a need to adjust the tune if you are installing a less restrictive filter or is the limit of flow determined by the exhaust system (assuming a reasonably clean oem filter)?
Thanks,x
I would personally not spend the $ after just doing an air filter.
But again has the bike ever been tuned, to begin with?
What other mods have been done to the bike, or changed since the last tune?
My bike is currently tuned and Will not be tuned again until I do one of 2 things.. change to a 13+ exhaust for comparison purposes, put on kit velocity stacks, or swap on a modded cylinder head with a change in cam timing.
Motor is stock. All the changes to the bike have been in the suspension, braking and rider control areas.
I needed a new filter anyway and decided to try the Sprint. Not for power but for reusability without having to deal with an oil enhanced system. The ability to clean the filter with a blast of compressed air is appealing.
At some point I'll install either an Arrow or Akra and at that time get the bike tuned.
The reason I asked the question is with my old WRX, Cobb had two tunes for their cat back systems - one if you retained the original air intake and a second if you changed to a less restrictive Cobb system. But, that was a turbo and once you had the exhaust done, it made sense that the intake would be the limiting factor.
I needed a new filter anyway and decided to try the Sprint. Not for power but for reusability without having to deal with an oil enhanced system. The ability to clean the filter with a blast of compressed air is appealing.
Just placed my order. I like dealing with PJ's. Great customer service, and they really seem to love what they do. Paige even made a comment in a confirmation email that they hadn't sold any of these filters in a long time then suddenly, two in one week, and wondered if they were being discussed on a forum somewhere. I replied with a link here and said this probably explained it. :laugh:
The filter is installed. Old OEM filter with 6k miles was filthy. Don't feel any difference out on the road. Given the numbers people have quoted as improvements on the dyno, I wouldn't expect to either.
A quick heads up re: installing a Sprint. The top three holes are undersized for the attaching screws and need to be drilled out. I'd go a little oversized so you have some adjustment wiggle room to get the screws going straight in. If you try to force a screw in at an angle, it is really easy to cross thread them.
Thanks to Paige at PJs who gave me the heads up when I ordered the filter.
I ran a K&N (Street - NOT Race) on my FZ6 for a few years with a M4 exhaust, and only a generic PC map for the M4.
I also ran a K&N on my Speed Triple with Arrow exhaust (Triumph map) and am running a K&N in the 675 with a Taylormade Racing exhaust.
I'll be getting the 675 tuned, but didn't bother with the last two and they ran fine with an aftermarket filter, long term.
Most people I've talked to have said to get the tune if you get the performance filter plus an aftermarket exhaust, but then really it's just a good idea to get the tune with the aftermarket system. As mentioned, just gotta keep them clean.
Changing an air filter alone will not affect the tune enough to hit anything an rarely needs much if anything done tune wise unless you've done a lot of other changes to the intake and exhaust to improve flow at which point the air filter became the restriction. On a stick bike it's not really restricting enough to matter.
I've got a Taylormade exhaust coming, and once installed i'll just get the arrow exhaust map installed for now. Was just thinking if i've got the exhaust and map, a new air filter should be all good?
Had pipercross racefilter at first...looking into the throttlebodies its clear that most air (and shit) goes inte second cylinder. Now i have MWR He raceairfilter....Engine running much smoother, stronger midrange AND topspeed increased with 4! km/h....dyno dont tell everything
mwr kit but probably any other should work. first cleanup is coming this winter
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