Hey guys! I'm kinda new to the Triumph ownership experience and need some advice (I owned a 2002 Honda RC51 for 11 years). I'm the second owner of a 2012 Daytona 675R with 5800 miles. I lost power as I was riding it last Sunday going around 70 mph . I pulled over to the side of the road and ended up trailering it home. I brought it to Ron of WCW in Washington, NJ and from the sound of the engine ("ticking" from the top end, that starts at around 6k and gets louder as the rpm increases) and the symptoms that he saw that I might need a new engine. I did not purchase the extended warranty when I bought it from Triumph Ducati NYC with 1700 miles. I saw a low mileage 2012 Street Triple 675R engine with 235 miles for $1800 or best offer. Another one with 3700 miles for $1000 or best offer. Would this work on the Daytona 675R? Is it the same engine? Or should I just stick with the same engine from the same bike? Any input (good or bad) will be greatly appreciated. Mike
... Would this work on the Daytona 675R? Is it the same engine? Or should I just stick with the same engine from the same bike? Any input (good or bad) will be greatly appreciated. Mike
Before you buy a new motor I would definately determine exactly what is wrong with yours.
You will need either an 09-12 Daytona motor(Gen2) or a later model ST model with the updated head. The easiest way to tell is the cam chain tensioner. Your daytona should have a black one. If you go with a ST engine then make sure it has the black tensioner and not the silver one from the Gen1 motors. If you decide on the ST motor you will also have to re-tune your bike which can be a pain. You cannot however easily fit a 13+ Daytona motor(Gen3) in your bike. Some have said it will bolt up, but it would require many wiring and FI changes.
Before you buy a new motor I would definately determine exactly what is wrong with yours.
You will need either an 09-12 Daytona motor(Gen2) or a later model ST model with the updated head. The easiest way to tell is the cam chain tensioner. Your daytona should have a black one. If you go with a ST engine then make sure it has the black tensioner and not the silver one from the Gen1 motors. If you decide on the ST motor you will also have to re-tune your bike which can be a pain. You cannot however easily fit a 13+ Daytona motor(Gen3) in your bike. Some have said it will bolt up, but it would require many wiring and FI changes.
2. the 13+ up motor bolts right in & can use your 2012 throttle bodies, airbox, etc etc etc... you will need to do some wiring changes on the stator, and use the 13+ radiator with hose kit. and yes you will need a custom tune, but your stock ecu and dash are up to the task with Tuneecu. I will be changing to one when my engine decides to kick the can.
Samwise_i, would live to hear your thoughts on where and how it would so "difficult"
Don't forget about the labor cost when you have it done by a shop. Not sure about the Daytona in particular but I was told engine swaps can take anywhere from 15 to 40 hours of work depending on the bike. Since this is not that old of a bike, probably the lower end of the scale. It took about 10 hours to overhaul the cooling system on mine, so I imagine the engine will take longer.
If you are not doing this yourself like I did then it is a non-starter IMHO. It took me at least 40 hours of futzing around and tuning. May take less if someone has experience doing them on a regular basis.
Btw, if I decide to sell the bike as-is, what price am I likely to get? Another possibility is I'm thinking of selling the bad engine once the swap is completed. How much do you guys think that would fetch?
Update: I found a better deal, used motor with 2k miles from a 2012 Daytona 675 for $1400, should be arriving at WCW mid-week. Thanks for all the input. :grin2:
Engine was delivered today at the mechanic's shop, he is currently checking it. He will keep me posted on any new developments.
BTW, I spoke to the service manager of Kissell Motorsports in State College, PA and she was very helpful and got back to me via e-mail when I reached out to them with my Daytona problem. I am planning on bringing them the old engine so I know what actually happened and to help me make a decision if I should have it fixed back to stock, sell it as-is, or keep it and have it mildly tuned.
Engine was delivered today at the mechanic's shop, he is currently checking it. He will keep me posted on any new developments.
BTW, I spoke to the service manager of Kissell Motorsports in State College, PA and she was very helpful and got back to me via e-mail when I reached out to them with my Daytona problem. I am planning on bringing them the old engine so I know what actually happened and to help me make a decision if I should have it fixed back to stock, sell it as-is, or keep it and have it mildly tuned.
One problem that has failed to be mentioned is that the crankcase breather interferes with the fuel pump output and the tank will not go down. The breather must be modified and the fuel pump reclocked slightly as well as the fuel pump plug shaved slightly. The stator plug is different, the 12 exhaust has to be modded as it wont go around the oil pan, the radiator is different and you must use a 13 radiator, or block the extra hose nipple off. The timing is 15 degrees different so all the timing in the tune ecu must be changed and it takes a bit of tuning to get it where it needs to be. All in all a real PIA for a little if any gain.
But yes it bolts right in the hole.
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