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Expert Bump!

3K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  luciano136 
#1 ·
I got to test out the new tow rig and finally got to the expert group. I'm wondering what I can do to improve the bike considering this thing makes everything easier already. Did anyone really see any improvement to lap times running a better suspension setup? I feel like these bikes come with some pretty good adjustibility and 2-4k in suspension really wont be a huge upgrade. So has anyone really felt an improvement in terms of track lap time? Im kinda stuck in the 1:40 - 1:42 Lap time range at NYST.
 

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#3 ·
I haven't had my 2016 D675R on a track yet as I just bought it last month. I rode it 400 miles in the canyons the first two weekends I had it. It spent the next two weeks at the shop getting springs for my weight front and rear and the forks re-valved to match.

It is a different bike. I rode it yesterday for the first time since having everything dialed in to my weight and style, and I couldn't be happier. The handling is better, feedback on the brakes is better, and even though I needed heavier springs, it rides better. Having a shop do everything it was $1200 with new Michelin Power RS mounted and balanced. Not cheap, but worth every penny.
 
#4 ·
Ragtop, how much do you weigh? unlike Japanese bikes that seem to be sprung for a 140 dude, 675's to me always seemed well sprung for a normal American.

On a gen 1 or 13+, I think the best improvement is to take care of that steep rake to get some feel in the front end. I would do that long before any suspension upgrades. (just IMHO anyway)
 
#5 ·
At 240lbs in gear, I am more of a Clydesdale than a gazelle. The problem I noticed on the first ride was even a moderate pull on the brakes blew through 80% or more of the front suspension. When I tried to set the sag, I couldn't even get it close at full pre-load. In addition, I noticed at full pre-load, the rebound was too fast. According to the guy that did all the work for me, manufacturers are afraid of allowing people that don't know what they're doing too much rebound adjustment. He said he hardly ever sees a stock bike that allows the proper rebound adjustment. So, with the fact that I needed heavier springs, he rebuilt the shim stack for the springs Ohlins recommended. The result is awesome and IMO, completely worth the time and money spent getting it right.

Now when I get on the brakes, the front end dive is proportional to how hard I am squeezing the brake lever which gives me better feed back and confidence in where I am in my suspension range, and with the rebound set right, it carves a line rather than pushing on exit. Obviously, my weight made the difference more noticeable, but this is the second bike I've had set up specifically for my weight (the other was race tech internals and a Penske rear shock) and the suspension is always the first mod I go for.
 
#7 ·
I am hesitant to drop even $1200 for the revalve/respring. There is no question that the bike has more in it, if I could get the power on sooner. The biggest weakness I have seen is the bikes lack of TC and abs. I am almost tempted to jump to a newer model. I do not want to sound like I know what I am doing rather I want to know what I am missing so the canyon riders don't help that much. I wish street riding and racing were the same because I could learn everything on a test ride. As far as braking and dive I would say I have not used 80% of the stroke as I am only 140 Lbs. so the rear wheel usually lifts or skips around 50%. The rear suspension usually loads up leaving corners and power delivery is a little vague. Some corners I can hammer it and slide while others will kill me with a tank slapper.

The tow rig is a 2015 Subaru Sti with the tow hitch going through the third brake light knock out cover.
Trailer - Kendon single

Pros - The car doesnt even know the bike is there with a 70 Lb tongue weight
Cons - Cant see anything through the rear view with the bike and wing haha

So yea, I am very curious how to dial in the rear end of the bike and what is the right choice. Re-valve/re-spring front and rear, ohlins goodies, or the new R6 lol
 
#8 ·
It sounds to me like you want a new bike. No amount of suspension setup is going to give you ABS or TC. At your weight, IMHO, you'd be better served to get whatever you ride setup with the proper springs and valves/shim stacks. TC and ABS are only going to intervene more often than necessary if your suspension isn't setup right. But that's just this canyon rider's opinion; what do I know.
 
#13 ·
If you're riding at that level, I would imagine an Ohlins rear shock would be very beneficial in keeping the rear planted so you can get better drive out of the corners. Picking the bike up faster obviously helps but doesn't "fix" the suspension, you're just trying to ride around the flaws.

I recently picked up an R6 track bike with Ohlins and it feels great on track!
 
#14 ·
Was it a full ohlins setup? The front end on my bike feels numb. It compresses fine but the limit could be 5% away or 20% away and there is no difference in feel. I have been on a couple S1000rr's and they feel ok but even they lack the feel I am promised by switching to the full trick race bits. Is there a spring/valve/oil wt that comes close to ohlins or is it go big or go home with this stuff? thanks all.
 
#15 · (Edited)
To be more specific, the forks on my R6 were modified by a race shop and the rear shock is an Ohlins shock. So, you don't necessarily need to buy completely new forks. I'll try to find the details on it.

Also, as far as the rear goes, I'd say the stock shock on the Daytona definitely felt a bit too stiff. Fine for normal riding but when you start pushing I could see it being sketchy on anything other than perfectly smooth payment.
 
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