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2009 Daytona 675 Won't Start

34K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  sazbatz 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

This is my first post, so please bear with me as I'm a noob to the Triumph 675 forums.

I'm posting here because I'm having some issues with my 2009 Triumph Daytona 675. It has about 10,000 miles on it, maybe a little less.

This past Winter it was put in storage, and I didn't have a battery tender on it during a majority of the season. As a resident of Illinois with winter's often dropping below 0 degrees Fahrenheit, I understand that this was a poor decision.

This Spring when I fired it up, I didn't have any problems. It was a little cold, but nothing out of the ordinary for the first start of the season.

But now that Summer is in full swing, I'm having some issues. I'm not a mechanical genius, so I'm going to do my best to describe the problem I'm having. Please bear with me.

So about a month ago when I went to start the bike, I turned the key to on, switched the power switch to on, and pressed my starter button. The engine didn't turn over, and the bike just made a mildly loud *click* sound. The sound reminded me of a dead battery. I flipped the power switch off, then back on, and tried starting again. The bike wouldn't do anything until the gas tank quit making the "venting" sound, but once that was done. It started right up. I took it for a 20 mile cruise to charge what I thought was a low battery. Every time since then, it's been doing the same thing. No start on the first try, but then after letting the gas tank "vent" on the second try, it would start right up. This was the case for about the past month. And now here is where it gets interesting...

Just the other day I went to start the bike, and the engine turned over a few times on the first try. I followed the same pattern of turning off the power switch and turning it back on and trying to start it again. But now, I'm not getting it to turn over at all, but I am getting that loud *click* noise. Since then, the bike will not start at all. My Dad is a much better mechanic than I am, so he came down to take a look at it with me. At first we both suspected that it could be a battery issue, but we found it interesting that the instrument panel and lights were both very bright and didn't seem to be showing signs of a low battery.

My dad and I ended up push starting the motorcycle, and it started right up. Immediately after starting it, I took it for a short ride (about 4 miles) to see if the battery would charge up. After I got back, I let it run for about 5 minutes just to continue charging the battery. After that, I turned it off, and immediately tried to start it up again. It didn't start. It just made that same *click* noise.

So now the bike will not start unless it is push started. My dad seems to think that it could be the starter.

What kind of expertise or advice can you guys offer me? I'm not sure what to do at this point, and it's driving me crazy that I can't enjoy the nice weather on the bike. If you guys could help me, I would greatly appreciate it.

If you need more information from me on how the bike's behaving, please post here and I can give as much information as I can.

Thank you!
 
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#3 ·
Swapping the battery isn't an option right now as I don't have a secondary battery. I could pick one up, but I'm trying to keep the expenses down. Could I take the battery off and take it to a place like Autozone and have them test it?

Is there anyway to check the starter? My Dad mentioned something about hitting it with a metal tool to knock it loose.

Thanks!
 
#5 ·
Follow MacBandits suggestion first as he knows his stuff.

You might want to check that you have the R/R fitted under the FREE recall of Sept 2012. Click the link below my sig to see if you have the old or new R/R. If you have the old style then check with your dealer asap if your bike is covered by the recall.

The old style R/R's are pants and you want the new one fitted asap.

If the battery was left for a long time in cold conditions, not being charged, I'd suggest the battery is knackered. These bikes a very sensitive to battery health.
 
#12 ·
You might want to check that you have the R/R fitted under the FREE recall of Sept 2012. Click the link below my sig to see if you have the old or new R/R. If you have the old style then check with your dealer asap if your bike is covered by the recall.

The old style R/R's are pants and you want the new one fitted asap.

If the battery was left for a long time in cold conditions, not being charged, I'd suggest the battery is knackered. These bikes a very sensitive to battery health.
I reckon the cold killed it. Also have you checked which R/R you have fitted as per the above?

Stick the new battery on continuos charge for 48 hours now, even though the shop told you it was charged. It will last a lot longer if you do.

Glad you have got it going again.
 
#6 ·
That "venting" noise you hear is actually the fuel pump priming the system.

You should hear that noise every time you turn the bike on, if you aren't then it is likely your bike isn't getting fuel and your injectors are running dry, which would cause the loud *click* noise.

If you don't hear your fuel pump priming when you turn your bike on, then it is likely your fuel pump relay has gone bad.

The easiest way to determine if the relay is working or not is to simply put your head next to the crankcase cover on the left hand side of the bike and turn the key to the on position, you should immediately hear the relay "click" closed and the fuel pump should start priming.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I really appreciate it. I'm gonna give all these things a shot and report back.

First thing I'm gonna do is take the battery off and take it to an auto parts store for a battery test.

If the battery is good, I'm gonna try jumping it from the battery, and then the starter.

I guess I'll go from there.

Regarding the fuel pump venting, yes, I hear that every time I turn the bike on.

Interesting development: When I turn the bike on, let the fuel pump vent, try to start and get the click noise, if I let the bike sit for about 10 seconds afterwards, the fuel pump will start venting again. I can then try starting again (without turning the key to off or switching the power button) and get the click noise again.

Once again, thanks!
 
#9 ·
Interesting development: When I turn the bike on, let the fuel pump vent, try to start and get the click noise, if I let the bike sit for about 10 seconds afterwards, the fuel pump will start venting again. I can then try starting again (without turning the key to off or switching the power button) and get the click noise again.
on some bikes, the fuel pump will run for a while after turning off or attempting a start in order to prevent vapor lock. I'm not sure if the 675 is the same, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was.
 
#8 ·
I recently had very similar symptoms on my '09 Street Triple. In my case, I could hear the relay click and fuel pump go, but my head lights wouldn't turn on and the starter wouldn't turn over. When this happens, I can still bump start the bike, but the headlights won't come on.

Replacing the battery didn't actually fix the problem for me -- but inspecting the main relay, removing and reseating the main fuse, and replacing -- that seems to fix it.

This started happening a few months ago and actually left me dead at 11pm one evening a few days after my regulator was replaced (under recall). It also happened to me on my way to a track day (panic!).

I had my Triumph dealer look at it, but they weren't able to reproduce the issue, so they cleaned, greased and reseated the connectors. Bike has been fine since. I am a little worried that the problem will return.
 
#10 ·
Hello everyone,

Just wanted to give you a quick update.

I took the battery to a local auto parts store (Advance Auto Parts, to be exact) and I had them test it. It was registering 11.98 volts and 124 cold crank amps. The guy at the counter told me that the cold crank amps were a little low, and the battery showed that it needed a charge. He said he could charge it for free and that it would be ready in about 45 minutes.

I let them charge it, and 45 minutes later I returned to pick up the battery. They took it off of the charger and tested it again. Interestingly enough, the cold crank amps dropped to 120 after the charge, and the voltage didn't change. The battery tester they were using also said that it needed a charge again. After seeing that, the tech told me that he thought that the battery was bad, because after 45 minutes on the charger it should've been charged completely.

They recommended a brand new battery, and $81 dollars later I left with a new battery.

I got home and put the new battery in, and voila, the bike started right up. I was happy to learn that it was just a bad battery and not anything more serious. I was really surprised that the old battery was able to run the lights and instrument panel, but not able to start the bike.

Now my concern is that maybe I have a bad stator and when the bike's being ridden, the battery isn't being charged up. Do you think that this could possibly be why the old battery died, or do you think it's my fault for letting it sit over the winter without being on a battery tender? Just one other thing for your consideration: We had a very wet spring here in central Illinois, and the bike is stored outside. It is covered with a motorcycle cover, but for maybe 3 weeks it wasn't ridden at all due to inclement weather. Do you think the rain, lack of riding for a while, and the winter without the tender could be the reason that the old battery died, or do I need to take a good hard look at the stator?

Thanks!
 
#11 ·
If the bike isn't charging you'll know in less then 20minutes. That's the maximum time the bike will run on a battery with no charging system.

As for headlights being in but not cranking. The starter draws at least 10times as much power as the headlights and everything else so that is pretty normal.
 
#13 ·
If the bike isn't charging you'll know in less then 20minutes. That's the maximum time the bike will run on a battery with no charging system.

As for headlights being in but not cranking. The starter draws at least 10times as much power as the headlights and everything else so that is pretty normal.
^--- Truth, and personally witnessed by 2 Regulator Rectifier failures..

Now you know - Battery Tender all winter. First winter without one, my battery was low, eventually died and I was troubleshooting all of the worng systems.

Same battery for 3 seasons after taking care of it while Bikey Hibernates :laugh:
 
#14 ·
same problem

hi all,
im also new to this.
i have the same problem .however i have a new battery.my issue started as soon as the cold came.

my battery shows just over 13V, but when i try to start then the click sound is still there. this issue only happens in the morning and if the bike stands in the cold during the day( for atleast more than 9hrs)..

it is driving me insane. im actually trying to sell my bike due to financial reasons, but i cant sell with this issue.

what do i do now?:pout:
 
#16 ·
i have the same problem .however i have a new battery.my issue started as soon as the cold came.
Have you done this first?

Stick the new battery on continuos charge for 48 hours now, even though the shop told you it was charged. It will last a lot longer if you do.
 
#17 ·
thanx for the response guys.

the battery was bought in March.im not sure if the previous owner put it on charge for the allocated time. however, my problem only occurs when i need to start in the morning.
from the symtoms that i have, it really seems like it could be the starter.is it possible for the cold to freeze the starter or its cables just enough to not allow enough current to swing it.
the only way i can start the bike is by using jumper cables and attach it to my Gf's scooter:whistle: haha
 
#19 ·
over the weekend i went to a KTM store, they went through the bike and they think it could be the battery. they were not able to test the battery tho. so im going to call the triumph dealer(kawasaki) and find out if they have the tools to do the test,
the battery i have at the moment is a gel battery. im not sure what its shelf life is.
 

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#23 ·
Those sounds are normal though a bit longer then normal because of low voltage. If the voltage is low the fuel pump runs slower and takes longer to build up pressure (your venting sound) same for the idle stepper motor(clicking sound).

You don't have solenoid or fuel pump issue. Both are working. When you hit the starter button you can hear the starter start to engage but immediately it draws the voltage low enough that the solenoid disengages and the dash resets. This is very common with a weak or bad battery. There are other things that can cause it but I wouldn't worry about them until you get your battery tested or replaced.
 
#27 ·
A lil help

I had a similar issue with my 09 daytona, except i also felt surges at times, leading me to believe it was my stator...well actually it was my fault, i replaced the battery and the leads were so loose it was melting the rubber covers. Adjusted and never had a problem again. Your battery probally froze and is not producing enough voltage...if it was your r\r, your bike wouldnt charge at all and be completely dead. You need a new battery sounds like it anyways i would start there. Also like others already pointed out recalls dont expire and are free. A call to your local triumph dealer with vin ready would be an easy free start...good luck my friend
 
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