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Considering a 675

5K views 53 replies 18 participants last post by  GoonerYoda 
#1 ·
Hello forum

I'm new to 675s although not new to bikes. I currently own a Yamaha r6(r), but I've always been fascinated with the 675 ever since I sat on one at the bike show some years back. I am considering picking a used one.

I understand that a 675 Is more labor intensive, I typically do all the basics myself like oil change and chain clean/tightening.

Are there any particular years to stay away from? Anyone go from a r6 to 675?

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#4 ·
The major differences you will notice are: less vibrations than your R6, slimmer body, more midrange torque than you R6.

Valve clearance checks come sooner than your Yamaha, but other than that it is no different.
I used to own an '05 FZ6, and comparatively the 675 is far and away much easier to wrench on. Less fasteners and much more intuitive to take apart.

If you get an 06-07, make sure it has the fuel pump relay recall performed
06-09, regulator/rectifier recall.
 
#48 ·
Hello fellow Daytona shopper! Good luck!

Question for you. On your R6, how difficult is it to roll on the throttle smoothly? Daytona riders, I'm curious how your bikes are also. In the turns when I'm leaning pretty good I extend considerable effort into trying to be smooth (which slows me down by being distracting) with the throttle. Strangely enough, even though the R6 is so weak down low, you still get that little tiny burst of power on the initial pull. Now it's not scary or anything but:

1) I don't appreciate the bike not following my commands. I'm smooth, so should it.

2) When leaned over I'm subject to potential traction issues. I don't want anything taking traction away.

NOTES:

This problem seems to reside at lower RPMs, so a faster rider would not have them I think.

Perhaps if I set my corner speed better, I would not be starting to roll on while I'm leaned over. I would roll on straight up(then who cares about a little jerk in the throttle?), then when I'm leaned over I've already passed that initial rough response and should be smooth sailing.

On another note about the R6 versus the Daytona, you are perhaps better suited for a Daytona than most. The ergonomics of your R6 are quit aggressive on the wrists. The Daytona has kind of a high seat low bars kinda feel, so depending on how you sit, you could be leaning into your wrists. On the R6, I find myself spending a lot of time trying keep weight off my wrists(should be doing that anyway) and I've had some uncomfortable rides. I expect any comfort issues on the Daytona would be something that would not sending you running because:

A) You are used to it
B) You have already adopted a technique that saves your wrists

Please note that most of these riders on here will probably say they have little to no issues with D675 long rides, so somehow they have worked it out or are OK making the sacrifices.
 
#20 ·
I've also seen a common issue is an exup getting stuck, I assume that issue goes away once you replace the slip on? What type of fuel controllers are you guys running? Any slip on to stay away from?

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Adding a slip on does nothing to sort out the EXUP valve. A full system solves the problem, or you can just remove the EXUP altogether. It serves no useful purpose.

Most people here use TuneECU with an OBD2 cable - it controls way more than just fuel. Do some searching.

O.B
 
#11 ·
EXUP is right after the collector, it has to be cut out or go full system to remove it.
It can be disabled via the ECU though as what happened when mine began acting up.

as far as fuel controllers: TuneECU is a free program which allows yous to tune, disable and check various systems on the bike. Check below for more info.
 
#15 ·
For the 12,000 mile check, I did the brake fluid flush, coolant flush and oil change myself. All the dealer had to do was the valve check (which did need an adjustment), replace the air filter and spark plugs, and a visual go-over of the bike. Dealer charged $300.

Dealer charges for the 12,000 check are all over the map, just like their locations.
 
#23 ·
A full system for a 675 can be pretty expensive, have a search through the performance and mod threads, if you're handy with a welder and a grinder there's some great ideas.

I run a PCIII on my 2008, only because I'm computer illiterate, the TuneECU program spun me out. Put tools in my hand and I'm good, give me a computer shit will get broken :biggrinjester:
 
#27 · (Edited)
I am on east coast so rates are different, it makes me mad the rates are as high as they are given we have a half riding season to begin with. I'm paying 780 on the r6 now and they quoted me about a grand when i called back for a same year d675 and this was with state farm. Geico wanted $2,600 i thought dude was joking lol but he was dead serious.


Does anyone know symptoms of a dying rectifier/stator?

There is a 2009 out of state that I may go look at this weekend, it is my understanding that all of those were under a rectifier recall?
 
#39 ·
I am on east coast so rates are different, it makes me mad the rates are as high as they are given we have a half riding season to begin with. I'm paying 780 on the r6 now and they quoted me about a grand when i called back for a same year d675 and this was with state farm. Geico wanted $2,600 i thought dude was joking lol but he was dead serious.
Check out riders insurance. I was quoted something crazy from progressive so I switched to riders and paid about $450 for the year.
 
#29 ·
If it hasn't had the R/R recall done, do it just in case.
Some people(myself included..bought new-2008/13,000mi) have not had an issue with the original R/R. others have had multiple failures.

My closest dealer has a R/R on order for me.
 
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