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Attack performance rearsets problem

18K views 42 replies 17 participants last post by  Stanczakw 
#1 ·
So I got the rear sets few days ago and started working on the bike. When I installed the left sets I had problems with the shift linkage rod, it wouldn't center in side the frame to where I could mount the linkage to the peg mount. So every time you'd shift it would make contact with the frame making it hard to shift. So the solution, I got a longer bolt, shaved it to the right size, got a nut in there as well between the nut and the screw it worked just fine.

Anyone els had this problem?
Here's a picture of it fixed.

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#4 ·
Tire Wheel Bicycle Crankset Bicycle tire


If you look closely, right behind the carbon fiber (ankle guard) you can see the bolt that I placed, with out the bolt it was hitting the peg dead center so that was all the way on the frame pretty much it was stuck to it to where you can't even shift up. Peg had too much pressure. So I used that bolt to center it

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#12 ·
Mine had exactly the same problem with my 2013. I put a couple of spacers to help but it's still not enough. When the bike fell on it's side of the rearset it broke because it was so close to the frame. To replace a shifting rod you have to buy the whole thing, quickshifter etc.. $300.
 
#16 ·
Are you using the stock shift rod? I believe your shift rod is too long. You either
need to cut and re-thread it or buy a shorter rod from Woodcraft, they come
in all different sizes. I had to shorten my rod when switching to gp shift with the attacks. Are you running gp or standard shift?

Also you should use a button head bolt with that rear heim joint instead of a
nut, will give you more clearance.
 
#27 ·
Are you using the stock shift rod? I believe your shift rod is too long. You either
need to cut and re-thread it or buy a shorter rod from Woodcraft, they come
in all different sizes. I had to shorten my rod when switching to gp shift with the attacks. Are you running gp or standard shift?

Also you should use a button head bolt with that rear heim joint instead of a
nut, will give you more clearance.
It is not, it's aftermarket rod from dynojet as well as the QS. Standard shift but converting to gp ASAP. So what I did I got a blot and not on each side and shaved the bolt some that was my solution. Did barber this weekend with this setup and it worked just fine.

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#17 ·
I'm having issues with my quick shifter rod hitting the side of the hole through the frame as well. Aside from a thinner rod is there anyway to avoid this?





Where it needs to be is right where the rearsets linkage piece goes. I'm thinking I could fab up a bracket to connect the two together rather than connecting them directly together the way you're supposed to.



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#19 ·
"Solved" my shift rod issue by using a couple of washers per bolt on that side as spacers. Solved the brake light issue with a couple of tie wraps, like so:





That second photo was taken from the inside of the rearset, in case you were wondering.

I'm not sure how well that will work over time, but it works well in my garage. :grin: Now to go test these bad boys out. :thumbsup:

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#21 ·
You can pretty much see what I did in those pics, if you look closely. I zip tied the cylindrical brake light actuator thingy to the part of the rearset between the bolts that hold the heel guard in place. Then I used another zip tie around the brake lever and hooked it to the spring from the stock rearset. I tightened the zip tie just enough to not activate the light, but enough so that the spring stays put.

I went for a 170 mile ride today and everything worked great, other than downshifting. I've got it in GP shift mode, and lifting up with my toe to downshift was very difficult. It takes a lot of effort. I just moved the lever out as far as it can go to see if the added leverage will help. Here's hoping because by the end of my ride, those muscles were wiped out.

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#40 ·
I went for a 170 mile ride today and everything worked great, other than downshifting. I've got it in GP shift mode, and lifting up with my toe to downshift was very difficult. It takes a lot of effort. I just moved the lever out as far as it can go to see if the added leverage will help. Here's hoping because by the end of my ride, those muscles were wiped out.

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hello all.

I just bought attack rearsets and thanks to riders discount for quick delivery right before my track day. I want to share my experiences with them and ask some advise.

up&down shifting was terrible with them and could run only 2 sessions. it was set to road shift pattern and adjusted to most effortless shift.

after I come back home I found that heim joint bolt was touching to swing arm when extends and it was limiting the whole shifter movement.

so after asking advise from TJ, I used the supplied rod which solved the clearance issue.

however, up shift takes a lot of effort and usually needs a few try. it seems short leverage is main reason and placement (or size & form) of toe peg exaggerating the result. it causes pain and too far at tiptoe. so I set them up for now to gp pattern to ensure upshits at least.

I just wanted to ask how did you resolve if you had such issues?

cheers
 

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#31 · (Edited)
Mine had exactly the same problem with my 2013. I put a couple of spacers to help but it's still not enough. When the bike fell on it's side of the rearset it broke because it was so close to the frame. To replace a shifting rod you have to buy the whole thing, quickshifter etc.. $300.
I have the same problem on my '13 Daytona. Like you I solved the rubbing issue by putting washers between the rearset and the frame. It wasn't perfect, but it kept the shift rod from hitting the frame. I contacted Attack Performance and they said their racers use spacers and haven't had any problems.

I measured the frame and the shift rod and determined that I needed a 6mm spacer. A quick trip to the local hardware store later for spacers and longer mounting bolts, the shift rod is now dead center in the frame. The shifting is noticeably easier with the shift rod in alignment with the shift linkage.

I'm overall very happy with the AP rearset but wonder why they don't redesign the linkages to better work for the '13 Daytona. Using spacers doesn't seem like the right way to solve the problem.
 
#32 ·
I have the same issues as some of u guys where the shift rod is touching the inside part of the frame. I was able to attach the shift rod to the bottom hole of the rearset & that helped with the shifting but it's still touching the inside frame. I spoke to Gill at ap & he said i shouldn't have to use more then the washers provided where the rearset meets the frame and if I did, I'm off somewhere else & would have to adjust. Haven't heard anyone else post this issue until I saw this thread. So all I need to do is add another washer to where it attaches to the frame? Didn't want to have to source out washers & longer bolts just to have it not rub the frame. I shouldn't have to either
 
#33 ·
I had found this post when I ran into the same shift rod binding issue on my AP rearsets. I contacted AP and Gil was extremely helpful. He asked me to send pictures and then sent me this kit.

When used in conjunction with a spacer and longer bolt from the GP shift hardware you should have gotten:

You get this:

Had to do a bit of adjusting of the shift rod and the shift lever at the case but now the rod sits right in the middle of the frame hole.

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#34 ·
How are the Attack Performance RearSets working for you...? :)



Hi... :)
I'm planning to get the same rear set for my Daytona 675r 2012 :) and just doing some research on the Attack Performance :) witch seems is the best rear set on the market right now that uses the same OEM quickshifter that comes with my bike... :)
The only commond tread I read involves the rod fitment and location... seems everyone had the same issue with some rash/contact with the frame... but with the easy solution of spacers :)
but... my real concern is about the GP shifting option ...
How did you find the response time, force, synchronization on GP shift option...?
Will truly appreciate your thoughts.. :)
Best to you... :)
 
#37 ·
Attack Performan Rearset GP shift Update :)

GP shift is just as smooth as reg shift.

These rear sets are great in every way
Thanks so much for the response... :) it really makes me feel very secure now.... it been a headache trying to find a rear set that not only will work flawlessly on GP reverse shift... whiteout all those weir roads ands shifter know positions... and even worse in some cases having to taken out some parts... or cutting :/

Do you have this sets on your Daytona ? Have you tried the GP option...?

Thanks again. ;)
 
#41 ·
I have/had the exact same issue. I was on the phone with Gil at ap and emailing tj at the same time. I wasn't happy throw high the peg was so that it would shift. I ordered both reg and gp shift rod lengths and attempted the standard shift and it just doesn't have any adjustment down. I switched to gp shift and there's all the room in the world.

It seems like the rearsets were designed for gp shift and the standard shift was an afterthought. I could be wrong of course. But the piece you move to make it gp shift is the piece hitting the swing arm.
 
#42 ·
I have/had the exact same issue. I was on the phone with Gil at ap and emailing tj at the same time. I wasn't happy throw high the peg was so that it would shift. I ordered both reg and gp shift rod lengths and attempted the standard shift and it just doesn't have any adjustment down. I switched to gp shift and there's all the room in the world.

It seems like the rearsets were designed for gp shift and the standard shift was an afterthought. I could be wrong of course. But the piece you move to make it gp shift is the piece hitting the swing arm.
you are right, road shift was not the main purpose of these rearsets and doesn't give any adjustment range at all. despite to gp shift I am at the end of range so need to shorten the rod a little. however I need to fabricate longer and more comfortable toe peg but unfortunately there is nothing to do for leverage, which require double the strenght to shift. I am surprized only a few complained about those issues. I just put back the oem rearset to confirm how it is easy to shift and how the toe peg sits on foot, just perfect. I plan to use shifter from sato type rearsets if I can't do anything else.
 
#43 ·
Sorry for reviving an old thread. Just wanted to know if it's worthwhile adding spacers so the shifter rod doesn't rub on the frame. I bought my bike with woodcraft rearsets and it rubs a little bit. Would neutral be a lot easier to get to if the rod was centered in the hole in the frame?

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