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Newby... Sorry

2K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  mbyrne455 
#1 · (Edited)
I just Bought a 2011 675 for $2000 that isn't running. Turn the key, the lights turn on, the fuel injector does its thing and when I go to hit the button, it tries to trn over and start but cant make it. I got it last night and through the trickle charger o just to see if a weak battery was causing it. Has Giles rear sets, an odd combination of Akra headers with a two brothers slip on. It has a Power Commander 5 with Autotune. It had HID's, but I took them off. It came with an OBD II cord, but I don't know what software has been uploaded on from it, as well for the Power commander. I do know it has a map. Can anybody help me where to get started on getting this running and what I should do with all this software? Ditch the OBD since I have the Power Commander?


Please much help would be appreciated
Thanks
 
#2 ·
You can't get it running, it's completely broken, so just send me your address and I'll come pick it up and dispose of it for you. Thanks.




J/K. The OBD is factory so you can't get rid of that. Check the easy stuff first, plugs and fuel. Is it getting spark? Is it getting fuel to the injectors?
You only need 3 things to make a motor run, fuel air and spark. If you're not getting one of those you can narrow down the culprit.
 
#3 ·
When you say it turns over do you mean it turns over strongly or it's weak and sluggish? Does it turn over a couple times and then just click? Always check the simple shit first or you'll kick yourself later. Are the battery connections tight? (Don't laugh, I work in a large cycle shop and several times a year we get customers towing bikes in because they won't start. Loose battery cables.) If that's the original battery it's 4 years old minimum and motorcycle batteries typically last 3-5 years if well cared for. Have the battery tested. Your local bike shop or auto parts store will usually charge/load test them for free.
If it's spinning over strongly and there is no trouble with the battery then move on to checking for spark/fuel. If you aren't comfortable with removing the tank then this is a good time to get someone else involved.
If you question the Power Commander, unplug it and plug everything back in as stock. While you won't have a tune this will let you know that the PC isn't totally shit. (Another problem we see a lot of.)
 
#4 ·
It tries to start weekly. Never goes to a clickin, just keep trying to start. When I try to start it the dash flickers. I believe it isn't the original battery. It has a shorai, and although I'm New to triumphs, I don't know if they come stock with it. My plan was to take the power commander off. I took off the auto tune already. I'm going to take the tank off and take the PC out. I'm just confused with the OBD cord. How do I know if someone tuned the Ecu or uploaded things into the ecu? I believe it isn't getting a spark. That's what I was "told" so I don't know if that's true.
Thanks!
 
#5 ·
If the dash is flickering and it's turning over weakly then the battery is weak. Shorai batteries aren't stock and require some special attention. Disconnect the battery from the bike and check the voltage of the battery. If it is below about 12.5v a standard automotive charger should not be used to charge it back. They require a special balance charger. Not many places have one of these chargers so you may have to either order one or just buy a standard battery to replace it.
 
#6 ·
Thank you. I believe the bike has a no spark issue and I believe the battery is fine but I'll take it out and check it over. Thanks. Just ordered new spark plugs and took out power commander. It's for sale. But hopefully I'll get all this resolved. Any more input is appreciated. Thanks guys
 
#7 ·
Just an update. The battery is in good condition, tested it. The starter is working but it won't crank over. Took the power commander off and put new spark plugs/coils in. Downloaded a tune from tuneecu and straightened out the Ecu. So currently the bike will try to start but won't turn over. I cleared the codes and put everything back together. Then tried to start, got nothing so I checked for codes again and had none. Any ideas? I was recommended the starter sprag?? And also I eliminated the tip over sensor, kickstand sensor, and clutch perch sensor because the starter is working. Thanks for the ideas.
 
#15 ·
Pulled a plug, then stuck it back in the coil, touched many metals and different areas and didn't get a spark. Side note: while testing for spark, I just placed the plug and coil in where they normally go when installed, hit the start button and they jumped up. Idk if that means anything.
 
#16 ·
Since you have no real diagnostic tools and are having to toss parts at it I'd go with a crank position sensor as best guess. I'm assuming there is no damage to the wiring harness.
The plugs/coils moving up when you turned it over is normal and is caused by compression.

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#17 ·
Yes just to clarify, I have diagnosed it was just the compression pushes everything up. Thanks everybody and yes it also looks like CPS it is. It'd be easy if I had a ohm meter or something to test everything with.
Thanks
 
#18 ·
So I replaced the CPS/stator, tried swapping out the Ecu with a good one just to confirm it wasn't my Ecu(which it isn't), I can confirm the engine isn't seized because I pulled the plug and heard the engine turning but I still am not getting a spark. I heard the connectors for the stator and cps can go bad, should I cut those out and solder them? I was also referred to check relays. Any other ideas? Any help is much appreciated. I can confirm it is getting fuel.
Thanks
 
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