I have just been fitting an STM slipper clutch. I followed the instructions on here for the yoyodyne and those supplied with the STM, but am now stuck. I have pieced the clutch together and torqued everything up, but it doesn't do anything! The clutch actuator pin (pull rod) is free to move in and out so when the arm pulls on it, it doesn't do anything. Is this correct? I'm a little unsure as to how it should work?
The install instructions were a little flaky on what to do with the stock parts - do you have the retain the bellevue washer? The STM clutch replaces the nut completely, so I left them out.
Any help would be much appreciated as I am losing the light and need to get this finished!
To add, in the exploded diagram of the standard clutch there is a bearing pack that fits over the actuator rod. Do I need to retain this pack? Does it fit into the anodized red park on the outside of the clutch?
Hi Luke - I actually installed mine last week and it works great! I took a couple of pics that I'll try to upload in a couple of minutes. But - No, the only pieces You must use from Your stock clutch is the thrust washer behind the drum, the bearing for the clutch pull-rod (It's located in the stock pressure plate) and the pull rod. And of course the plate pack minus the anti-jidder spring and seat washer. The bearing will fit inside the red Bearing rest but it will take some grease, and I froze the bearing before pressing it into the plate.
Some pictures of the installation with comments. The OEM dismountal is exactly the same as the Yoyodyne how-to:
1 - Before installation. Thrust washer mounted:
2 - STM drum, Drum stopper hub and sec spring support mounted. OEM Plate package (minus anti-jidder spring/seat washer) installed.
3 - STM Secondary spring installed.
4 - STM Pusher plate, spring spacer and Primary spring installed.
5 - STM Spring pusher plate, Ball bearing, washer and nut installed
6 - Complete installation with OEM pull rod ball bearing installed in the bearing rest, Bearing rest installed, OEM Pull rod installed and the screws
mounted.
Without the OEM Pull rod bearing installed, the pull rod will never release the clutch plates. I hope this could be of some help. Good luck!
Yep, when I took off the OE pressure plate the bearing came with it, so I had no idea it was there. The instructions mention using the OE clutch stack (minus the judder spring and washer) but that's it.
There is also no mention of the thrust washer behind the OE drum, but since I didn't remove it, I guess I left it in there.
How did you guys do up the nut on STM? I managed to bodge it using my clutch holding tool, but I saw on the Triumph parts site, there is an official STM clutch holding tool, which would work much much better
...How did you guys do up the nut on STM? I managed to bodge it using my clutch holding tool, but I saw on the Triumph parts site, there is an official STM clutch holding tool, which would work much much better
Man - dont kill me, but I used a metal shaft from my car jack to lock the rear wheel both when removing the OEM as well as when using the torque wrench to fasten the STM nut...
I bought a track only 675 that has an STM slipper in it. Therefore I don't have any paper work for this clutch.
What are the torque specs and loctite specs for all of the fasteners involved?
Great write up by the way.:notworthy: I was really sweating rebuilding this clutch until I found this thread. I have PM'ed you this question also.
Also, the reason I am doing the rebuild is I race this bike (Miller Motorsports Park) and my starts SUCK! The clutch is very inconsistant. I am hoping this will fix that. Could the lack of Jidder/Judder springs cause this? I have raced other bikes and have always been able to get a feel for the clutch and get killer starts. Not this one. I am putting a Barnett replacement kit in it.
Any input from anyone racing with one of these clutches would be great.
My STM have never let me down yet, other than an sudden adjustment needed, probably due to the lower wire connector. It is very predictible and solid during starts, I guess there must be some issue with Your setup and hope You'll be able to get it in a proper condition.
I attach the installation manual to this post, be sure to pay attention to the torque specs as well as the height of the plate package as descibed in the manual.
Oh, and there are in fact harder primary spring plates to order from STM if You would are experience that the clutch is opening too easy. And make sure that the anti-jidder springs are removed from the plates.
Reviving an old thread but I am doing the reverse. I'm removing an STM Slipper and going back to stock. Finally received my gasket. The STM is going to Tapcon as soon as I get it removed.:thumbup:
I purchased the bike with the STM already installed so I didn't have the pleasure of seeing how the stock one came apart. I've read this thread and the yoyodyne thread but am unclear on the positioning of the judder spring and smaller friction plate in the OEM clutch stack. Two are in the box with the stock clutch.
Exactly where do each go in relationship to the stack?
Which way does the "curve" face? (appears to be the "open" side towards cover)
I can't tell by the exploded view in the manual in the yoyodyne thread but it looks like the "flat" spacer in first, then the judde spring next, open face pointing towards the stack, then start stacking plates. Just want to be sure and do this once.
BIKE
::::::::::::: <- Clutch drum
----------- <- Anti-judder washer
----------- <- Anti-judder spring (doesn't specify which way)
======= <- Friction plate with the largest diameter
----------- <- Steel plate
======= <- Regular Friction plate
----------- <- Steel plate..... and so on
So what you said is correct, just note that the first friction plate is different from the rest of the stack. :thumbup:
I actually found a (not that good) picture as it was when I dismounted the plates. The sharpness is unfortunately not good, but I believe I am able to tell the direction of the anti-judder spring when I zoom in.
Been a couple of years now since I got the STM and in the end I splashed out and bought the STM holding tool. I have had the clutch in and out of my bike a few times and having the tool makes it MUCH easier! If you can get hold of one and it isn't too expensive, then I would definitely recommend getting one :thumbup:
I just wanted to clarify something...when installing the STM slipper clutch, all the OEM plates go back in EXCEPT for the Anti Judder washer and Anti Judder Spring right?
Installed one of these on the weekend, all was fine except the oem bearing which the clutch pull rod goes through wouldn't fit into the STM bearing rest (the red part). Had to hammer the bearing into place. All seemed to work fine, but bearing wasn't turning as smoothly as it did before. Anyone think there would be any issues here? Did your bearing pop into easily into the STM part?
Had a day at the track and slipper works fine, but upshifts were really bad and notchy, not sure whether it's got anything to do with the slipper or just more adjustment needed with clutch cable etc
i recently pulled my slipper clutch out to change the plates and althoough ive changed 50 or more oem clutches this is the first time ive attempted to change stm plates. i followed your guide to the letter but after attaching the clutch cover and conecting clutch cable i have no tension on the cable and the small arm that comes out of the bottom of cover moves fairly easy it should be extremely difficult to move the arm by hand any idea where i went wrong. im definantly missing something there are no extra peices and i installed exactly as removed. please help
There sre a couple of years since I installed the clutch, however it sound to me as that the clutch pull rod isnt correct positioned to engage the clutch. I seem to recall that some other person also got that problem.
So - I believe You should dismount the clutch cover and figure out how the rod connected to the wire should be positioned to correct engage the clutch.
Sorry that I cannot be more specific - good luck with Your issue:nod:
Ive attempted to line this cover up several times and still having same problem if the push rod isnt lined up right then the cover shouldnt fit flush and screw on right? I posisioned the little arm exactly as i marked it before unistall should the center push rod be loose behind the red thing. When i turn that lower arm the push rod pulls the cover tight but still no tension idk what to do im so lost
If I understand You correct, You seem to have something wrong when reinstalling the clutch or cover. As I remember the design, the arm is designed with a notch that forces the rod outwards when the arm is drawn forward. Did You measure the disc pack according to the STM instructions (41.8+/-0.3 mm)? Pleace notice all the bold text in the STM instructions. Also, I remember that one of the parts actually could be installed off-angle and make the total thickness too large, it might be the spring pusher plate.
Unfortunately that´s the only help I can give You at the moment. Please verify Your work one more time, if it still doesnt work, You might have to turn to a workshop near You and ask them to have a look on the clutch. Good luck!
Ive attempted to line this cover up several times and still having same problem if the push rod isnt lined up right then the cover shouldnt fit flush and screw on right? I posisioned the little arm exactly as i marked it before unistall should the center push rod be loose behind the red thing. When i turn that lower arm the push rod pulls the cover tight but still no tension idk what to do im so lost
Thank you for the tips. So i unistalled the clutch and went thru it again checking the stm instructions to the letter and still had the same result. I probly sound like an idiot but i dont understand exactly how the internals of this clutch work what does the push rod actually work i know when you pull the clutch lever it pulls the rod outward away from the engine block but i dont see how that effects the clutchs. Is the push rod ment to sit freely behind the red bearings. When its completly installed with the cover lined up should there be more tension on the cable than just the tension from the small spring on the arm. When i pull the lever it is pulling the pushrod outward but that doesnt do anything to the clutch. Is the bike supposed to pressurize once i ad oil and fire the engine?
Hatcha, as I understood You, the STM clutch had been working fine earlier and You were just replacing the plates? Otherwise, I would suspect that You forgotten to move the OEM pull rod ball bearing to the red ball bearing rest as shown in pic 6 on the first page. With the ball bearing correct installed in the rest, the pull rod should stay behind the ball bearing rest and pull all the internals down to the pusher plates outwards and release the pressure on the plates. At least that is how I remember the design, the STM instructions are very vague in this description and the OEM ball bearing isn't visible on the drawings.
If this is the problem, read the posts later on about how to install the ball bearing in the ball bearing rest. Its a very tight fit, I had to freeze the ball bearing down, use grease and put a lot of pressure to the ball bearing to get it installed properly in the rest.
...how the internals of this clutch work what does the push rod actually work i know when you pull the clutch lever it pulls the rod outward away from the engine block but i dont see how that effects the clutchs. Is the push rod ment to sit freely behind the red bearings. When its completly installed with the cover lined up should there be more tension on the cable than just the tension from the small spring on the arm. When i pull the lever it is pulling the pushrod outward but that doesnt do anything to the clutch...
Yes thats correct i was only changing the plates ive had this clutch installed and working perfect since 2008 but this is the first time ive changed the plates. Is the push rod suposed sit freely behind red ball bearing or should it be stiff mine sits freely i can move it foward backwar and side to side i can spin it around its kinda floating bak there
So what your saying is that the push rod should be stiff in the center then? it should not move freely?
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