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Can the motor be manually turned over by the rear wheel?

4K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  MacBandit 
#1 ·
I think I may have experienced an engine seizure. :frown2:

After retrieving the bike and getting it home, I wanted to do some checks to see if the engine will rotate before pulling valve covers to look inside the motor. Put the bike on a rear stand, selected 6th gear, and tried to rotate the rear wheel by hand but no go. Does anyone know if this is actually possible on a Daytona or do the spark plugs have to be removed first due to the high compression?

Bike is 2008 model Daytona with just under 50, 000 kms that I have had since new and is well maintained and serviced regularly.

Recent Background: The bike has been making a strange noise the last month or so, which was like an excessive air intake and a rough idle when cold. Problem would tend to go once the bike got to normal operating temp. On Saturday, noticed that this noise did not go away once the bike got up to temp and after a gentle 10 minute ride, the bike stalled as I was coming into a fuel station. Tried to start it and there was a loud screech mechanical noise from the starter motor. We tried a push start and the rear wheel would just lock once I released the clutch in 2nd gear (and in 3rd as well) and no start was possible. I think that we did not have enough speed up for a push start anyway to be honest.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 
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#7 ·
UPDATE Can the motor be manually turned over by the rear wheel?

Well the answer to my question seems to be "no".

Pulled the spark plugs (all 3) and still could not turn the engine over via turning the rear wheel by hand whilst in 6th gear and the bike on the rear stand. Even pushing the bike on the concrete only caused the rear tyre to skid.

Pulled the small cover on the RH side and was able to turn the crank ok with a spanner.

At this point (and after having a think during the week about what had happened and how no obvious prior signs of an engine seizure prior) I started to think maybe there was an electrical failure. Sure enough, found the stator and RR connector had burnt and melted together, plus obvious signs of damage on the R/R cable at the connector.

As I am unable to pull the connector apart, have ordered a new R/R and stator and will need to cut the stator cable next to the connector to get them out. Will test the stator then and if all good, might be able to salvage it as a spare after sourcing and fitting a new connector to it.
 
#9 ·
Have you had the recall done on the R/R through your dealer? Although you've already ordered one it might be worth giving them a call and get it fitted for free so you'll have a spare. I had the exact same thing happen (08 daytona with 55k funnily enough) approx 3 months ago and they replaced it under recall.
 
#10 ·
I did a preemptive replacement with a Mosfet one from Riders Discount for piece of mind, .........then came the recall notice 4 months later. lol

Dealer would not replace the old (undamaged and still working) one I had pulled off with a new one. This meant that to get a new one under the recall, I would of had to re-fit the old one and take it in to them to do the change over. No way I was going to let them touch my bike given their quality of workmanship.
 
#11 ·
I had this same issue, squeaking noise, and it left me stranded. Was trying to figure out what the noise is all about. Even asked MacBandit's input, I could not solve the problem. The problem started when I purchased Ricks RR and noise was noticeable, but putting back the old RR, noise gone, but my charge was around 12.8-13V in either RRs. Recalls started, taken to the dealers, RR is better quality as well as the fat wires charging 13.8V. A month later, riding with noise, getting gas and it won't start. Hard to do a rolling start on this bike, but managed to have someone push while I was on it, guy was sweating like crazy. Success starts multiple times, but when your charging system dies it just does not want to keep running. Got a new battery, slapped it on,started; with a volt/meter charging only 11-12V, I knew it was in trouble, managed to drive home, discharged the battery though. Found a stator OEM ebay. Only 12,000 miles when this happen to me; and you can see little pcs of charred epoxy residue, replaced, back to charging 13.8-14.2. Lesson learned, bought another stator just incase.
 
#12 ·
Older thread revival but it popped up while I was searching for something else. Noticed the correct answer was never given, so for future searches, the answer is yes you can. In the valve check section the service manual specifies putting the bike in a high gear and turning the engine using the rear wheel.
 
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