This being my first Triumph and loving it thus far, thought I'd get a build thread going to track my progress and to get some feedback from the 675 community.
I've been wanting to get a D675 for some time; mostly as a track bike, but all the D675s I seen were over priced. After having my R6 track whore for a couple years, I decided to step down from the liter bike scene. What better compromise to coming down from a liter than to have a triple with some extra cc's. Enter the '14 D675R, completely revamped in 2013 and received nothing but great reviews. The new look had to grow on me, but that didn't take long. Soon after I decided to bite the bullet, made the purchase, and sold my '09 R1.
Here's what I've done so far:
Ohlins 9.0 N/mm front springs
Ohlins .90 N/mm rear spring
Harris Performance steering damper mount kit w/Ohlins 68mm damper
Attack Performance rearsets
PVM 6 spoke alloy wheels
Brembo 19RCS master cylinder
Brembo HP front rotors
Vesrah RJL front brake pads
SharkSkinz race glass
Dunlop Q3s
Bridgeport 90* valve stems
Zero Gravity Corsa windscreen
GB Racing case savers
M4 Slip-on exhaust
MJS headers w/AutoTune o2 bung
Samco radiator hoses/clamps
DynoJet PCV
DynoJet AutoTune (removed after final tune)
Driven SAI block off plates
MotionPro Throttle Revolver
CRG adjustable clutch lever
SKUTR ServoBuddy
BMC street air filter
EK 3D 520 gold chain
Renthal 520 sprockets (stock gearing)
Renthal clip-ons
Renthal Dual Compound grips
LighTech 1/4 turn gas cap
LighTech chain adjusters
Sato Racing tie down hooks
Sato Racing shift spindle holder
Carbon fiber tank sliders (R&G Racing - Street tank/NJ Customs - Track tank)
From another thread there was some assumption that the '13 D675 throttle tube had the same diameter as the 1050 throttle tube. I recently installed a 1050 throttle tube and can confirm that they are not the same.
In the pic below, is the comparison between a '13 D675 (top), 1050 Speed Triple (right), and a '09 R6 (left) OEM throttle tubes.
I like the aesthetics without the chain guard. There was some lube (nothing bad) the first few rides that would fling on my tail, but that eventually stopped. I'm also one for WD-40 though, and that's all I use. When the time comes for me to swap my drive train out, I'm prepared to clean the lube that's going to fling from the new chain.
Lol. You haven't seen the other tank pad I have. I attached a pic; it's made by Geelong Carbon Craft and my plan was to swap out down the road when my TechSpecs wear out. It's a better quality piece than the one I currently have installed, but it will interfere with my tank grips.
Thanks. My only gripe with the AR GP2/R exhaust is that purple spot before the canister. I may go Akra or Hindle down the road, but the Akra is $$$ and I really don't need a full system.
Third pic - Connector for the CKPS, which was a pain to get to. Thanks to johl for posting how he got to the plug: CKPS connector. I managed to do it without removing black hose (hose goes to the right side of the air box).
Fourth pic - Where the charcoal canister used to be.
Fifth pic - All buttoned back up.
Sixth pic - Cleaned my MWR air filter while the airbox was out.
Easbaysav, awesome bike. Could you explain the bazzaz to me? I want to go with a catless header but am confused of the whole bazzaz/powercommander/autotune thing. I have searched a lot of threads where people do a dyno tune on a powercommander but my local shop wont even mess with that on a street bike. Basically I need to be educated on what to do after installing new headers (bike already has taylormade with slip on map). maybe i should just the headers on their and do the full arrow map.
Bazzaz Z-Fi, among others like Power Commander V are fuel controllers. It's a piggy back to the ECU to create fuel maps for the injectors. Maps can be downloaded online, but best options would be to get a custom tune on a dyno or use AutoTune/Z-AFM.
The AutoTune or Z-AFM hooks up to your PCV or Z-Fi and creates maps as you ride. You have to hook up your laptop with the given software and accept the changes made by the AutoTune. Once you have a good map, you can stop using the AutoTune.
Took my bike out for a short ride yesterday and it seemed to be starved of fuel. It cut out on me a few times coming to a stop. I was worried at first that I did something wrong with either my charcoal canister removal or my Bazzaz install, but the Z-Fi was installed as per the instructions and the carbon canister removed as other members have mentioned.
Think it's the mapping because it's currently running a zero map (or no map) and the O2 sensor is removed with the Bazzaz O2 optimizer installed. I'm waiting for my tuner to get back from Laguna this weekend so hopefully tomorrow, if not Tuesday I should be able to get a custom map done.
Nope your bike is running rich. Mine did the same thing. When you add the O2 eliminator, the ECM will read 0.00 on the sensor now and is thinking the bike is running lean so it's dumping more fuel in all the cells. I had to add -25 to 0% throttle 1000 RPM just to get the bike to idle at 12.8 A/F ratio where before it was in the mid to low 11s.
All the O2 eliminator is for is to keep the CEL off. Apparently I must be the only one that has figured that out because when I called Bazzaz they were not aware of it telling me the O2 sensor plays no role in fueling (wtf seriously?) and said my ECU was bad...
Nope your bike is running rich. Mine did the same thing. When you add the O2 eliminator, the ECM will read 0.00 on the sensor now and is thinking the bike is running lean so it's dumping more fuel in all the cells. I had to add -25 to 0% throttle 1000 RPM just to get the bike to idle at 12.8 A/F ratio where before it was in the mid to low 11s.
All the O2 eliminator is for is to keep the CEL off. Apparently I must be the only one that has figured that out because when I called Bazzaz they were not aware of it telling me the O2 sensor plays no role in fueling (wtf seriously?) and said my ECU was bad...
I just assumed that since my bike cut out on me, it was starved of fuel and since the O2 sensor was no longer present, the ECU couldn't compensate for the fuel. Guess my assumption was backwards.:duh:
Good explanation in that vid though, got a better understanding now.
Also was thinking about calling Bazzaz. Heard their customer service was good, but I would've hated to hear that my ECU was bad.
I got Renthal clip-ons and just placed everything up the bar a little and clamped the mirror to part of the bar and plastic bar end. Holds fine, I used the same mirror on my R1 and only clamped it to the plastic bar end (same brand clip-ons).
I got a little update with the issue I had with the bike sputtering/bogging and cutting out. I contacted Pergrem because he had similar issues and he helped out a lot. Thanks Pergrem :thumbsup: I was so close to pulling the Bazzaz out of my bike.
After making some changes Pergrem suggested, my bike hasn't had the bogging/cutting out issue. It can use some more tweaking, but I'll work that and make small changes here and there to see if I could get it right. My tuner said I could bring my bike down and see what he can work on the dyno so I'll do that when time allows. Also, I didn't think I had an idle issue until I made a change he suggested and now my bike idles better too.
Length difference between the ProBolt and OEM shift rod:
My tuner noticed the shift rod was rubbing agains the frame (seems to be somewhat common with the Attack rearsets). So it was a good time to address that while I was changing out the rod. Also moved the rod down a hole on the rearset side. Dropping it down a hole and no more rubbing = easier to find neutral (still takes a few tries sometimes, but better than before).
Where the shift rod rubbed against the frame:
The part of the frame the shift rod rubbed against:
Added a couple washers that are about the same thickness as the spacers that came with the Attacks.
New shift rod installed:
The new gap between the shift rod and frame. The slimmer shift rod and washers were sufficient in keeping the two from further contact:
Got my bike re-dyno'd at another shop yesterday and got a better map now. First problem he found was the TPS wasn't reading properly with the throttle open and then he tuned it below 3k to solve the sputtering/stalling issue I had. Could've stopped there, but also had him take a look at the rest of the map to smoothen any bad spots from the previous tuner.
if not Contact Mike at Latus Racing, he is a great guy and down to help out people who are racing this bike... He knows his shit and I would say might be the best guy in the US for info on this bike.
The HP's are full-floating, have aluminum bobbins/buttons, and thicker. Not sure if there's a difference in the steel used. Wish I had a scale to compare the weight, but by feel the HP's felt lighter.
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