When it comes to the 2006-2012 steering stop Triumph seems to have overlooked their design slightly. Many of us have suffered from a broken steering stop after crashing, ultimately leading to a salvaged title. This stop may be used as a protector for the stock design or as a full replacement. To prevent the stock steering stop from breaking, this design stops the triple tree prior to contacting the cast frame but only limits steering by ~1 degree. All hardware is stainless and the stop has been anodized to keep it looking good for years to come.
The stop is offered with both aluminum and Delrin frame plates. It is recommended that the aluminum be used for stock applications and the Delrin or aluminum be used for track applications; the Delrin design allows 2mm of plastic deformation before the bolted hardware goes into pure shear, reducing the impulse loading at contact.
At this time the stop does not support the stock steering damper, but a separate piece is being designed to replace the stock mount structure.
So this bolts to where the stock steering damper mounts on the Daytona? If that is the case then unfortunately it will not work on my Street Triple. They don't have the damper mounting points.
The stop bolts to where the stock damper bracket mounts on a Daytona 675. The street triple never had a damper bracket or mount on the triples but I believe that they left the threaded holes open on the frame, which this mounts to. A quick check will confirm or deny this.
Unless I'm mistaken, this bolts to the frame and not the triple clamps. On a Daytona you'd have to remove the black bracket for the damper. On a ST there is no damper or bracket so just bolt it up. The holes in the frame are still there.
Would be interested if it could be modified to accommodate a damper (mine is aftermarket) in the stock location.
If that's possible, PM price and shipping costs to Australia, please.
I had an SES limiter on a previous 675 track bike but it greatly reduced the turning ability (and therefore increased turning circle). It wasn't an issue on track but made it harder to maneuver in the garage, and also prevented the use of the ignition lock.
I test fitted a street triple triple to a daytona frame with this stop and it works. Assuming you have the mounting points on the street triple frame, it should bolt right up.
I just bolted mine up to my Daytona last night and the fitment was perfect. Cant wait for my next track day. When tech asks me to "move from lock-to-lock" I wont have to fake it next time!!!
Now I'm waiting for some one else to post up a crash test.
I knew it bolted to the frame but I was sure the Street Triple frame didn't have the mounting points for the damper. I just went and looked an what do you know. One unused hole and one with a cable guide mounted to it.
Just a heads up to anyone who purchased these that the frame protector flat heads require an english allen key, rather than metric. I may include the allen key in future purchases. The reason is due to metric vs. english thread pitches.
Why is the mounting bolt metric and the spacer bolt English or is te English 5mm the same as the metric 5mm? That may explain another weirdness. The the bolt going into the frame was kind of tight even before it go to the encapsulated thread locker. So I compared it to the bolt I took out and the pitch was a hair different. The OEM one I took out was a perfect metric 1.00 pitch but the one in the kit was not.
The frame bolts are a metric 6 x 1.00 and should comply to DIN 912 and have a class 6g fit, they are also made of 316 SS so by all nature they should be significantly better than what is included from the factory. I am unsure why the bolts you are measuring are not compliant with your thread gauge.
The bolts used for mounting the frame plates onto the contact plate are 10-24 english. The reason that these are english rather than metric has to due with the differences in standard thread pitches. A course thread metric is .8mm which is roughly equivalent to a fine thread english bolt (10-32). Since the shear strength of delrin and aluminum is low in comparison to the 316 SS flat head I wanted to use a courser thread to provide greater resistance to thread shear at assembly. For a given length courser thread pitches will have a higher thread shear load due to the increased area.
I will include the appropriately sized allen key with delrin purchases to remove the seperable plates.
oooooo didn't know this existed. I'm shopping for a new frame, and this opens up new possibilities for ones with broken steering stops! May be purchasing from you soon.
edit: just noticed you're located in MA! do you have a stock of these, if I were to need one on short-ish notice?
semi-random/related question, that maybe you may know... are all 06-12 frames exactly the same? I was told they were... keeps my options open for getting a replacement frame.
excellent! thank you sir. I'll be painting it anyway.
Ever heard of a way to fix that brittle collar that's part of the frame inside the steering head? The one that the upper bearing race sits on when you tap it in.
excellent! thank you sir. I'll be painting it anyway.
Ever heard of a way to fix that brittle collar that's part of the frame inside the steering head? The one that the upper bearing race sits on when you tap it in.
WTH! No I don't know of a way to fix that and have to say that's the first I've seen like that. How the heck are they replacing the bearings that causes that? Hammer and punch? Maybe someone doesn't know how to use a blind hole puller properly.
haha that's about the response the guy at GMD Computrack had when I was explaining this yesterday. Yes I used a hammer and flat head to get the old bearing out, and then put in new spherical ones.
So obviously, he told me I have to replace my frame. Upon quickly searching for new ones, we found that this is not an uncommon issue with wrecked triumphs. That casting is weak as shit.
It may be weak but it's not the only bike with a thin aluminum casting. I'm willing to bet salvage sellers aren't to careful when removing those bearings.
Yeah I read that earlier, but they still make some steering stops for it. I was wondering if that would be necessary anyways. I gotta take a look at the redesign compared to the 2012.
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