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Hid intall daytona 675: How to with lots of pics:

60K views 163 replies 47 participants last post by  Xenon Expert 
#1 ·
The HID install on the Daytona 675 is the easiest I’ve ever done on a bike. There just seems to be room for everything and wow what a difference. It’s all plug-n-play with no need for soldering or any electrical skills.

I found my 675 to be almost dangerous at night time due to the terrible factory headlights that they are renowned for.


When doing my research on which lights to get, I found a member on this forum, Oliver from Xenon expert who was super helpful with great equipment. I cannot recommend them highly enough for anyone wanting to upgrade their headlights. Oliver knew exactly what was needed for the 675 and does a kit specifically for them. I live in Australia and somehow the kit arrived from America, on my doorstep, in less than a week. The equipment and packaging are first rate.


I went with the 35W ballasts and 6000k bulbs which are super white with just a hint of blue in them. The brand is Volt and the supplier was Xenon Expert.

The install was a breeze and I thought I’d to a how to for anyone who wants to give it a try.
 
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#2 ·
Firstly, remove the cover plates at the top of the side fairing behind the headlight. There are only 2 screws on each.





Next remove the covers from the back of the headlight. There are only 3 screws on each. This will give you access to the light bulbs and wiring.



 
#3 ·
Next, remove the factory light bulbs. One is has 2 screws, the other has a little wire spring clip. The bulbs then simply unplug from the wiring. NOTE: Never touch the glass part of a headlight bulb with your bare hands. It can ruin them. I actually wrapped paper around the globe to protect them.

 
#4 ·
Next, to drill a hole in the headlight covers to allow the HID wiring to go through. This kit comes with a really nice seal on the wires that just clips into the hole you have just put in. NOTE: this hole is 25mm. I decided to place the hole low on the covers so that any wiring is hidden out of sight.





 
#5 ·
Once the hole is done, run the wires through, clip the seal in and the hardest part is over.





 
#6 ·
The new high beam light comes with a little adapter collar which simply twists on. Both bulbs just clip straight back into the original spot in exactly the same way the factory ones do... it's that easy. They simply then just plug into the same plug that I removed from the factory bulbs. Now, you can actually just screw the light covers back on again.



 
#7 ·
After that it's just a case of plugging the ballasts into the connectors coming out of your headlight covers. These can only go on one way so there is nothing to figure out or get wrong.



There is plenty of room to tuck the ballast and wiring in the side of the guards. Once the top covers go back on, no wiring can be seen and other than the super bright headlights, you wouldn't even know that the mod had been done.
 
#8 ·
These lights are fantastic; they light up the road like daytime. I couldn’t be happier with the outcome and the ease of installation.
 
#10 ·
Will post night pics as soon as I get a chance. I just finished install and wanted to get the progress uploaded. This kit still has one light on for low beam and both on for Hi Beam... the same as OEM.

Xenon expert also do Bi Xenon's (both lights on for low and hi) but this is a big job that involves pulling your front end off, you headlight housings apart and lots of wiring. I've done this on my other bike already and wasn't about to do it again this time.

I'll get the night shots up as soon as possible.
 
#12 ·
They are tucked in there quite snuggly but I used a zip tie just to snug everything up. There doesn't seem to be any rattles.
 
#14 ·
No. Screwed straight back on. Seemed to be plenty of clearance. Why do you ask ?
 
#15 ·
A couple of shots of the lights at night.

Lowbeam:


Highbeam:
 
#20 ·
I just said fuck it and mushed it back on. Worked fine. The only thing I could think of was to have drilled the holes in the back instead.
I got it. I manhandled that cover like a pimp on a $2 hooker. I was worried I would have to drill the back of mine too. I could definantly tell that they wires had been compressed from my earlier atempt at closing the housing up. I tore the whole thing apart as I thought maybe the connector got inbetween the bulb end and the cover... nope! Oh well.. its on now.

T
 
#22 ·
No need for a harness with the 35W. I'm not sure about the 55W though. Did a night ride last night..... so happy with these lights !

I've also got an 08 CBR1000rr. It's been running fine for nearly 2 years with HID's and no direct harness.
 
#24 ·
Because I use the bike at the track and also dont want the HID's flicking on everytime I'm working on the bike and turn the ignition, I decided to install an on/off switch via a relay.

I'm running modified a modified triple clamp and needed to make a bracket to hold my ignition barrel. While I was at it, I thought I'd make some extra room for the switch.

Here is the bracket I made up from some sheet Aluminium and the switch that I used:







 
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#28 ·
Only the cost of the headlights and perhaps an hour or two to install with no special tools needed.

The mounting bracket was a scrap piece of Aluminum I had laying around. No cost, just a lot of hack-sawing, measuring, drilling and sanding. The polishing was the easy bit and took about 10 minutes.

Oh.... the waterproof switch was about $10 and $6 for the relay.
 
#30 ·
If I buy the kit made for Triumph, I only need to order quantity 1 and it will come with everything I need? Also, the only options I see is for Color... No H#'s. I take it that it already comes with the right stuff since its a daytona specific kit?
 
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