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JHS or UK RACE SUPPORT Oil Coolers? Feedback Requested

13K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  JauntyBishop 
#1 ·
Hi guys,


I'm in the market for a new oil cooler to replace the unreliable heat exchanger currently on my 08 and 09 D675.


Am looking for feedback on the units from JHS and UK Race Support.


Keeping in mind that the JHS Cooler is a butt load cheaper than the UK Race Support unit:


Does this indicate that you get what you pay for and the JHS cooler is inferior compared to the UK Race Support unit?


From looking at each unit they look much the same. Thoughts?


Cheers,
Luke
 

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#4 ·
I wonder who copied who? I'd buy the original. I don't like knockoffs. However if price is the consideration I would think a radiator shop could make some caps or even braze shit the ends. I was told specifically not to connect across the radiator with a hose. I was told it could cause overheating for some reason. Not sure I believe it but I wasn't willing to try it.

Also buy right now while the British pound is severely depressed.
 
#7 ·
They just cool the oil.


Yeah I wanted to put a proper radiator in but the price is way too high for a stock motor. If I was building a race bike generating a lot more heat it would be a must.


Someone clearly stole someone's design since they're identical. I have the UK race support one and it works well. Can't tell you if it cools better though. No real change in the way the bike runs not hotter or cooler. Rider rides easier though due to piece of mind not worrying about it.
 
#9 ·
I installed that UKRS cooler on my track only 07 Daytona about three years ago. So far zero problems and completely happy knowing that my heat exhanger isn't there to blow up at the track. Not sure what the price difference is now between the two, but I will say the UKRS unit was top quality and it was nice getting everything you need to install the cooler and block off the radiator lines all in one shot...
 
#13 ·
Maybe the difference is significant in winter where the need to heat the oil might be more important.

Anyways since I don't see anyone complaining about destroyed engines due to replacing an exchanger with a cooler I might consider this if my exchanger ever fails.

If it ever does fail is there a way for me to tell without taking a good look at coolant like when flushing/changing it?
 
#15 ·
Unless your riding track I wouldn't bother with this mod. The heat exchanger seems to hold up fine under normal conditions.

What happens when it goes? There's a couple ways for it to fail. It can go externally dumping oil and water all over the road. Alternatively it can go internally in which case oil can mix with the coolant or visa versa or both. If it goes internally frequently it will overfill the overflow and the bike will smoke as the oil gets thinned and blows past the rings. It could also go both ways external and internal all at once.
 
#16 ·
Unless your riding track I wouldn't bother with this mod. The heat exchanger seems to hold up fine under normal conditions.

What happens when it goes? There's a couple ways for it to fail. It can go externally dumping oil and water all over the road. Alternatively it can go internally in which case oil can mix with the coolant or visa versa or both. If it goes internally frequently it will overfill the overflow and the bike will smoke as the oil gets thinned and blows past the rings. It could also go both ways external and internal all at once.
Wow that can be epic. Rossi-style @ Mugello 2016 I mean :smile2:

I do between 2-4 trackdays a year. The track is tight and technical - essentially there's only a single 800m straight. So I guess I'm OK.

It's a bit disappointing on Triumph's part though - building a pure sportsbike and having standard problems for track riding.

Anyways, thank for your input, much appreciated.
 
#17 ·
When swapping to the UKRS billet oil cooler, do you need to drain both the engine oil and coolant as you would during a normal drain/refill per how the manual states.

I plan on installing mine with my new header and draining factory coolant out for Honda Type 2. So i guess in my situation it really wouldn't matter.

Just didn't know if there were any preferences or tips required when doing the installation of the billet oil cooler.


Lastly, those of you who have shortened the factory heat exchanger hoses, how far up did you cut the line and cap them, and did you have to zip tie them off or secure them to a bracket or other location?
 
#18 ·
You do not need to drop the oil. Obviously you have to drop the coolant since you have to detach a lower radiator line (heat exchanger) all the coolant is going to come out. As for cutting the lines. I detached the line measured the length of the radiator outlet and the length of the plug added a half inch and cut the hose to that length. If you screw up you have more hose to work with still. You don’t want them overly long unless you secure them somehow since they will be unsupported and will be shaking and flexing from road vibration.
 
#21 ·
The UKRS Billet Cooler is not same as the JHS one. You need to look closely on the inside and you will see the UKRS one comes with an oil relief gallery around the area where the oil flows from the banjo into the cooler. On the JHS one there is less than 1mm gap here for oil to flow. So this causes a dead head effect and already reduces pressure to the rest of the engine from that point forward. The UKRS ones have won more races all over the world including the Isle of Man ManxGP with Tom Weeden. McBandit its not a case of who copied who its a case of who took someones design and refined it. After all its very hard to reinvent the wheel but you can make it better. UKRS are now a site sponsor on here and as soon as they get their vender area up they will be posting offer to members of this forum (5-10 days), or you can contact them and get your discount now.
 
#23 ·
Ok guys to put the record straight. It was the late great JT who designed the billet cooler and its a bit like an oil filter, how can you make it look much different? It may look the similar but the internals are different. Ours has a much greater relief around the banjo bolt oil gallery than any others we have seen. When oil comes up through the banjo bolt (thats the bolt holding the billet cooler in situ) it has a series of 4 holes it goes through and then the oil has to find its way round a 0.75mm oil gallery between the banjo bolt and cooler before it enters the cooler on other makes. Its this area, 'the relief' that makes ours different. We have increased this area so oil has a much much easier time and is on its way through the billet cooler and round the rest of the engine with no restriction at the billet cooler. This helps keep the oil cooler.

As for capping the hoses or connecting them together. Well as we work with a load of race teams we looked at race radiators and they are simple, one hose in and one hose out. So we figured it best and more sensible to cap the hoses rather than connect. We can supply a bung that goes in the existing hose so all you have to do is a quick pull off the hose and insert the bung with no need to drain the coolant or a cap that completely replaces the hose and is a bit slower to do so you will loose more water and possibly need to bleed the coolant system. As these bikes are getting on a bit now we would strongly recommend changing the coolant anyway or if you race make sure you have de-mineralised or distilled water to stop corrosion.
 
#24 ·
In Australia we can now run glycol-free coolant in race engines which is far superior to just demineralised water.
Engine ice and Motul Mocool are popular options but there are others.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
Here are some updated photos of my 2016 street triple with the UKRS billet oil cooler.

The install is very simple and haven't had any issues in the last few months of using this product.

For the 2013+ street triple in regards to capping off the hoses, I had shorten the hose length further than what is shown on UKRS website (which are of my bike) due to the plastic hose clamp that keeps both oil cooler rubber lines together. That plastic clamp melted after a 4hr long ride in FL summer heat.

No big deal at all, I just drained the coolant, and shortened both hoses and capped them. I got rid of that plastic oem clamp all together.

I bought an OEM lower coolant hose in case I messed up the factory one, but this gives a good visual on where to add the hose plugs for the 2013+ street triple engines.

Here is a link to my thread I just started.
https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?p=1869625135#post1869625135

The UKRS Billet Oil Cooler is top notch!!

Also, speaking of coolant, I did a flush with distilled water and refilled with the HONDA Type 2 (Blue)
 
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