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CCT question on 2015

5K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  jonathanm50 
#1 ·
So, being the overly enthusiastic motorcycle noob that I am after about 300 miles on my brand new 2015 STR that "ticking" noise became slightly more apparent. Enough that I now noticed it, and after doing some research hastily diagnosed it as the Cam Chain Tensioner. So I ordered an manual APE CCT and installed it and obviously it didn't change shit because nothing was really wrong to begin with. Needless to say when I brought my bike in for its 600mi service and I mentioned it to the tech he almost laughed and told me how bad of an idea that was considering that technically it voids my warranty on the engine. He was also nice enough to let me know that he wouldn't report it and I told him that I would reinstall the stock 2015 CCT as soon as I got home and had the chance(which I did earlier today).

This brings me to now. After reinstalling the stock CCT I started up the bike and it seemed almost as it was surging a little when giving it gas and after letting off from one of the revs the engine stalled. Not sure what had happened I started it back up and it seemed almost normal ( resting idle rpms were right below 2000, (which seemed low but what do I know, I'm a noob)). I took it for a bit of a spin around town and idk if I was hearing things or just started noticing it or if it just started with the reinstallation but it sounded like there was almost a high pitch wine that would get slightly higher pitched with higher rpms which makes me think that now the Cam Chain is TOO tight now. Which makes no sense to me considering that I thought the stock CCT was hydraulic and automatically adjusting so it would avoid these problems. Whats going on here? was there some special calibration step on the stock CCT that I missed during install? There were no external screws or springs etc to adjust or remove like on the older stock CCT units. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated seeing as I just got the bike back from service and would hate to have to bring it back in again and spend even more $$$.
 
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#2 ·
As far as I know, installing a manual CCT will not void your warranty but someone with better knowledge can chime in on it. The way I understand it is they would have to prove that the mod you did had an adverse affect on the bike. If I were you, I'd put it back on. Just me though,

In regards to your ticking noise. Are you sure it's from the right hand side? I would check your header bolts and make sure that they are torqued properly. I had the notorious tapping or ticking sound and this was the issue.

The whine that you hear and gets higher in pitch as you increase revs is just the triple engine singing to you. Let her scream away, she's fine!

RPMs at idle should be below 2K. Iirc, 1500 is where it should be.

Hope this helped!
 
#3 · (Edited)
I Appreciate the response! I actually solved the problem this morning! Ill always have the APE ready incase the dreaded CCT issue ever comes up but I completely forgot to reset the Stock 2015 CCT (hydraulic I believe) before reinstalling it so from my understanding it was applying the maximum amount on tension on my Cam Chain which was way too much and is what caused the Whining noise. It was a slightly different noise than the bikes beautiful intake whistle. It was a much less happy whine haha. Real happy I caught it though, riding with the Cam chain too tight could have been catastrophic.

In terms of the Header bolts, what is the best way to get to them so I can check? and how could I tell? (and just to clarify the header bolts are where the three exhausts meet the engine? correct?)
 
#8 ·
Over tightening is a short cut to a world of expensive pain. There are many small diameter bolts/nuts which need to be secure but which can shear relatively easy with standard hand tools. Many are steel and thread into aluminium so a thread may be much softer than the fixing. A torque wrench in the lower range is an essential home mechanics item, you should also consider a 1/4 drive socket set for items which only require light force and present accessibility problems. Without a torque wrench you should consider stepping away from wrenching-these aren't Detroit iron or Milwaukee boat anchors.
 
#9 ·
Okay, thanks very much. Looks like I'll be buying a new torque wrench! I assume a 40$ one will do and I don't need to splurge on a 150$+ on right? I already have a very large collection of sockets and attachments just only normal socket wrenches :/ I know too well what you mean, I partially stripped some of the treads to one of the holes on the cam chain cover when I by mistake put one of the shorter screws in and nearly had a heart attack. Luckily It was only the very first few threads and the longer (correct) screw was able to still go in securely. Learned my lesson not to force things the hard way though lol. Very new to this so still picking up on these things, my curse is I love to tinker and do things myself so a lot of research caution is needed.
 
#10 ·
You only need a torque wrench for the lower range and it need not be expensive good luck and I'm happy to hear of someone else who is learning about bike mechanics by steady and cautious experimentation don't rely too much on the net -including me treat yourself to a manual and enjoy getting your bike right. No one else will ever care about your bike the way you do.
 
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