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Attack Performance Rearset: Master Thread

55K views 91 replies 31 participants last post by  Derrick Wang 
#1 · (Edited)
I wanted to consolidate all of the information on we have available on the Attack Rearsets floating around our forum for future reference. I'll start off with what I can recall and if I miss something, please contribute and I will add it onto the list.

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INSTALLATION ISSUES
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  • Shift rod clearance through frame: Simply add washers to the main mounting points.
  • (2013+)Rear brake master cylinder alignment: Remove rear reservoir from frame, remove or loosen exup motor. Align everything and install. Put everything back together. The problem is the exup motor is blocking all of the hard lines connected to the MC. Source
  • Brake return spring mount (lack of): Woodcraft Return Spring (Source), Ziptie the stock spring between two points. Or just leave it off, the Brembo masters have an internal return spring (please confirm same for Nissin MC?)
  • Brake sensor mount (lack of): Ziptie sensor body to rearset, clip spring to lever arm. If spring isn't long enough, use ziptie as extension (Source).Or just leave off if you're ok with just front sensor.
  • Peg adjustments: You can swap the left and right side footpegs around and flip them upside down which will lower them even further. ~Nastybutler

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HARD NEUTRAL SOLUTIONS
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  • Mount the shift rod on the lowest mounting point on the lever (higher up = harder to find neutrals). (Source)
  • Make sure the shift rod and linkage clamp are at a 90° angle. (Source)
  • Clean and slightly lube all Heim joints. (Source)
  • Make sure no part of the shift rod is contacting the frame, use washers on main mounting points to create a gap if it does.
  • Make sure none of the bolt ends on the lever is protruding and rubbing on the rearset itself. Grind off or washer to space.

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GP SHIFT SETUP GUIDE
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http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47289

Additional notes:
  • Requires shift rod replacement: M6/M6 Male 188mm (anything from 184mm to 190ish will work, depends on your preferred angle)
  • Stainless steel rods are recommended over aluminum. Aluminum threads do hold up. ~TJ
  • Pull Quickshifters will retain functionality (stock QS is pull), no need to replace. ~TJ

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MEASUREMENTS
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On both the Attack and Rizomas, there are 3 rows, each with 3 different heights. In other words, there are 9 different positions you can have. In the list below, I have labeled the rows by number ("1" being the most forward) and the heights by letter ("a" being the highest). I measured each position from the highest point on each respective peg to the floor. Additionally, I measured the arm (distance from the center of the mounting bolt to the center of the peg) and have highlighted that measurement in red.

MEASUREMENTS:

STOCK

Fixed at 387mm 140mm

RIZOMA

1a) 395mm 134mm
1b) 385mm 136mm
1c) 375mm 140mm

2a) 395mm 146mm
2b) 385mm 149mm
2c) 375mm 151mm

3a) 400mm 159mm
3b) 390mm 160mm
3c) 380mm 161mm

ATTACK PERFORMANCE

1a) 419mm 110mm
1b) 409mm 110mm
1c) 395mm 110mm

2a) 419mm 122mm
2b) 405mm 123mm
2c) 395mm 125mm

3a) 419mm 136mm
3b) 405mm 137mm
3c) 395mm 139mm
(Source)
 
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#4 ·
Didn't notice that my shift rod was rubbing against the frame until my tuner pointed that out. I bought a slightly longer ProBolt shift rod to make for more adjustability (GP shift) without having to worry about running out of threads on the OEM shift rod and quickshifter so I addressed the rubbing issue when I changed the rod.

Length difference between the ProBolt and OEM shift rod:



Where the shift rod rubbed against the frame:



The part of the frame the shift rod rubbed against:



Added a couple washers that are about the same thickness as the spacers that came with the Attacks.



New shift rod installed:





The new gap between the shift rod and frame. The slimmer shift rod and washers were sufficient in keeping the two from further contact:



The washer/spacer stack:

 
#10 ·
Then maybe I'll look into them.

I really wouldn't let any of this stuff keep you from getting a set. All of the info is here and the rest of the forum. Nothing that isn't already solved.

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Makes sense. If I'm gonna do it I'm gonna do everything at once (sato spindle holder, attack rearsets, and pro bolt shift rod.) Gotta save some cash for that.

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#19 · (Edited)
Any recommendations to the length of the Heim joints connecting the shift lever and the pivot that moves the shift rod?
Pictured here http://ridersdiscount.com/forum/att...erformance_rearsets_triumph_daytona_675_4.jpg

I'm going through this thread to see if I can fix my hard shifting. some time ago I made the join longer to bring the lever up. which I maybe should have done with a shorter shift rod but I'm not sure
 
#20 ·
I just installed the AP's from TJ for my '13. Perfect fit out of the box without any mods required. My OEM shift rod is nicely centered in the frame hole not touching anywhere. The shift rod is in the second hole from the top. No issues with neutral or GP shift to change between GP and standard shift takes a minute with the set still on the bike. Love these!! However no provisions for return spring that I don't miss or brake switch that I don't miss either.
 
#27 ·
Yea sure, come on over!

If you guys are buying new shift rods I would highly recommend going with a stainless rod. The aluminum rods look nice but the threads do not last.
This ^

I went with Woodcraft rods since they have any length you can possibly want and are very narrow (more clearance). The guys there are great also, plus it's nice to support race teams.
 
#34 ·
I'd like to provide and receive a little feedback on the AP rearsets. Maybe a few others can chime in on how well they did or didn't hold up in a crash.
My buddy low sided in them last weekend, all be it quite slow, about 50mph. Bike slid off over rumble strips into the black top run off. Pretty chill crash. His rearset bracket snapped. It must have been the right angle, but he was pretty disappointed as to the result.

Any feedback from anyone else on these?
 
#35 ·
I'd like to provide and receive a little feedback on the AP rearsets. Maybe a few others can chime in on how well they did or didn't hold up in a crash.
My buddy low sided in them last weekend, all be it quite slow, about 50mph. Bike slid off over rumble strips into the black top run off. Pretty chill crash. His rearset bracket snapped. It must have been the right angle, but he was pretty disappointed as to the result.

Any feedback from anyone else on these?
Joey had 14 crashes in 2013 and Danny had 2 crashes last year (including hitting a wall and sliding down the right side of the bike at 90mph) and the only thing we ever replaced were footpegs, footpeg brackets, and toe pieces.

If your buddy snapped the main bracket that is the 1st time I've seen that and I've sold hundreds of sets of rearsets. I'm guessing the rumble strips were elevated.
 
#38 ·
Mine broke the peg at the score line and peg bracket, and bent the brake lever. The main bracket flexed so far the clevis clip dug into the swimgarm, but is perfectly fine. I theoretically could have kept riding. I don't know what you'd have to do to break that piece.

The only real downside was replacing those three pieces was probably 25% of the cost of a new set.
 
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