I wanted to consolidate all of the information on we have available on the Attack Rearsets floating around our forum for future reference. I'll start off with what I can recall and if I miss something, please contribute and I will add it onto the list.
Shift rod clearance through frame: Simply add washers to the main mounting points.
(2013+)Rear brake master cylinder alignment: Remove rear reservoir from frame, remove or loosen exup motor. Align everything and install. Put everything back together. The problem is the exup motor is blocking all of the hard lines connected to the MC. Source
Brake return spring mount (lack of): Woodcraft Return Spring (Source), Ziptie the stock spring between two points. Or just leave it off, the Brembo masters have an internal return spring (please confirm same for Nissin MC?)
Brake sensor mount (lack of): Ziptie sensor body to rearset, clip spring to lever arm. If spring isn't long enough, use ziptie as extension (Source).Or just leave off if you're ok with just front sensor.
Peg adjustments: You can swap the left and right side footpegs around and flip them upside down which will lower them even further. ~Nastybutler
===================== HARD NEUTRAL SOLUTIONS
=====================
Mount the shift rod on the lowest mounting point on the lever (higher up = harder to find neutrals). (Source)
Make sure the shift rod and linkage clamp are at a 90° angle. (Source)
On both the Attack and Rizomas, there are 3 rows, each with 3 different heights. In other words, there are 9 different positions you can have. In the list below, I have labeled the rows by number ("1" being the most forward) and the heights by letter ("a" being the highest). I measured each position from the highest point on each respective peg to the floor. Additionally, I measured the arm (distance from the center of the mounting bolt to the center of the peg) and have highlighted that measurement in red.
Thanks for this. One thing about the measurements on the AP's is that you can swap the left and right side footpegs around and flip them upside down which will lower them even further. I tried it, but I didn't like how my feet lined up with the brake/shifter levers. Others may have better success.
Sure thing. Yea that's what I was thinking too when I took mine out of the box, but didn't bother trying as I wanted mine higher. Yea it hurts my feet when the levers is too leveled with the peg.
Didn't notice that my shift rod was rubbing against the frame until my tuner pointed that out. I bought a slightly longer ProBolt shift rod to make for more adjustability (GP shift) without having to worry about running out of threads on the OEM shift rod and quickshifter so I addressed the rubbing issue when I changed the rod.
Length difference between the ProBolt and OEM shift rod:
Where the shift rod rubbed against the frame:
The part of the frame the shift rod rubbed against:
Added a couple washers that are about the same thickness as the spacers that came with the Attacks.
New shift rod installed:
The new gap between the shift rod and frame. The slimmer shift rod and washers were sufficient in keeping the two from further contact:
Glad it worked for you! Thanks for the comparison photos. I did not take any when I got this rod ... mostly because I broke my stock rod and posting the photo on the inter-tubes would have been embarrassing ;-)
I hope Attack updates the design a bit to solve some of the issues people are having. I want these rearsets really bad but I am holding off because of these little annoyances here and there. I want to go back to GP shift. =[
I really wouldn't let any of this stuff keep you from getting a set. All of the info is here and the rest of the forum. Nothing that isn't already solved.
I really wouldn't let any of this stuff keep you from getting a set. All of the info is here and the rest of the forum. Nothing that isn't already solved.
Makes sense. If I'm gonna do it I'm gonna do everything at once (sato spindle holder, attack rearsets, and pro bolt shift rod.) Gotta save some cash for that.
I'm going through this thread to see if I can fix my hard shifting. some time ago I made the join longer to bring the lever up. which I maybe should have done with a shorter shift rod but I'm not sure
I just installed the AP's from TJ for my '13. Perfect fit out of the box without any mods required. My OEM shift rod is nicely centered in the frame hole not touching anywhere. The shift rod is in the second hole from the top. No issues with neutral or GP shift to change between GP and standard shift takes a minute with the set still on the bike. Love these!! However no provisions for return spring that I don't miss or brake switch that I don't miss either.
I went with Woodcraft rods since they have any length you can possibly want and are very narrow (more clearance). The guys there are great also, plus it's nice to support race teams.
I'll give my aluminum one a season and see how it holds up. I noticed some slight bending on the OEM rod when I took it off. Probably due to the heat/high load when shifting. Stainless is definitely the way to go.
I can attest to this. The threads on the OEM shift rod with the QS (which is aluminum) were stretched to the point I couldn't get one of the jam nuts off without twisting it off.
I'd like to provide and receive a little feedback on the AP rearsets. Maybe a few others can chime in on how well they did or didn't hold up in a crash.
My buddy low sided in them last weekend, all be it quite slow, about 50mph. Bike slid off over rumble strips into the black top run off. Pretty chill crash. His rearset bracket snapped. It must have been the right angle, but he was pretty disappointed as to the result.
I'd like to provide and receive a little feedback on the AP rearsets. Maybe a few others can chime in on how well they did or didn't hold up in a crash.
My buddy low sided in them last weekend, all be it quite slow, about 50mph. Bike slid off over rumble strips into the black top run off. Pretty chill crash. His rearset bracket snapped. It must have been the right angle, but he was pretty disappointed as to the result.
Joey had 14 crashes in 2013 and Danny had 2 crashes last year (including hitting a wall and sliding down the right side of the bike at 90mph) and the only thing we ever replaced were footpegs, footpeg brackets, and toe pieces.
If your buddy snapped the main bracket that is the 1st time I've seen that and I've sold hundreds of sets of rearsets. I'm guessing the rumble strips were elevated.
Mine was just as slow but straight down track surface. Snapped footpeg at the cutline and a slightly bent rear brake lever. I'm assuming rumble strip also.
Mine broke the peg at the score line and peg bracket, and bent the brake lever. The main bracket flexed so far the clevis clip dug into the swimgarm, but is perfectly fine. I theoretically could have kept riding. I don't know what you'd have to do to break that piece.
The only real downside was replacing those three pieces was probably 25% of the cost of a new set.
A mate I race with crashed at about 55 mph on Sunday, and all that happened to the Attack rearset was that the peg got ground down a little bit. It's still useable, just a little shorter.
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