URGENT clutch help - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 04-19-17, 15:18 Thread Starter
Ditch Doctor
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URGENT clutch help

my forum friends and brothers!

I need help. Riding out with @harcourt this past weekend and my bike was having issues all day. felt like it was grabbing and surging in 1-2nd... consistant throttle input, and i had double checked the chain slack, as it felt like maybe the chain was too loose and when i would change gears it would grab.
then i started having issues in 3-4-5 gears where i would be @75-80 mph mid corner in 4th gear and the bike would be grabbing, almost like it was catching in and out of gear... again, no change in throttle input and @harcourt rode beside me and the chain was looking fine

heading home that evening i was on interestate at 70mph in 4th, usually at 6-8k rpm and the bike started bogging down and surging really bad, switched to 3rd gear and the revs jumped, but i kept having grabbing to the rear wheel (imagine hitting the throttle on and off where the rear wheel gets power and then its gone again.. except the throttle input was steady all day..) and the bike was trying to die.
any time i would switch to 3-4 gear it would try to die.. kept it in 5 gear at 80... it would start to die... had 15 miles to home at 100+ in 6 gear to keep the bike going... any other gear would try to burn out

Oil level is good and fresh oil 2k miles ago... i change it every 3k street miles or every other track day
never had this issue

changed the shift star and detent plate last year this time before the track and had much smoother shifting and no problems the rest of the year

My question.... and this may be answered once i get home tonight and pull the clutch..
can i just get new friction plates/ clutch plates and install and im good? or do i need the entire clutch assembly? (basket and all)
local dealer qouted 16 each firciton plate and 22 each clutch plate
... bikebandit only has a few parts in stock from triumph... and the dealer has a 3-4 day lead time.. and I have a track weekend next weekend....

the dealer couldnt even get the bike in until the 25.. and wouldnt have it done by the track...

Last question

Is it possible the transmission could be messed up too and I should just take it in for the dealer to assess before i just switch out the clutch parts?

Best,
Mark

That Others May Live

Last edited by Ditch Doctor; 04-19-17 at 15:26.
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post #2 of 17 Old 04-19-17, 19:11
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I'm really not sure what I'm saying is really related to your problem but the bike bogging and "wanting to die" doesn't sound like transmission/clutch at all to me. If you've got TuneECU or equivalent check throttle bodies balance, might be way off for some reason.

"I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched their c-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser Gate. All those moments will be lost in time... like... tears in rain. Time to die."

Roy Batty, Blade Runner.
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post #3 of 17 Old 04-19-17, 20:39
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Also, one more thing to try that I didn't mention - get it on a stand and hold it at 6-8k rpm in neutral. If it's still jumpy, you know it's not the clutch.
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post #4 of 17 Old 04-20-17, 00:32
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Is this a drivetrain/transmission related issue or an engine related issue? If the engine is trying to die, it may be an engine issue, if the engine is running fine and the power is not getting to the wheel it is a drivetrain/transmission issue...

Is the engine trying to die on you? If you clutch was slipping the engine would run at higher rpm as it failed to transmit the power to the wheel.



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post #5 of 17 Old 04-20-17, 07:50
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When my clutch has gone out it hasn't been jumpy. It slips when I add throttle and won't drive like it should.

I would ask the dealer to take a look before you replace the clutch.

If it is the clutch, you can replace just the friction plates if the steel plates are in good shape. The shop manual explains how to check them. You should inspect the clutch basket too. I've not had to replace my basket yet.

What year is your bike? If it is your clutch, I've got a spare set of plates for my 2011 that I could fedex to you or - in an emergency - bring to NCM for you.

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post #6 of 17 Old 04-20-17, 17:22 Thread Starter
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man i can get carried away with stuff and forget to think straight. Thank you all for your input.
i got so fixed on it being the clutch that i ruled out the throttle bodies/ fueling being a big issue.

took the clutch down to the plates, will update with pictures. Measurements are in spec and the steel plates are fine... maybe a few friction plates were right on the edge of service
went ahead and ordered friction plates, springs, and the two o-ring steel pieces that go toward the engine side of the bike (not in front of my service manual and forgot the name of the two thin steel washer like pieces)


NO CEL or any other signs, never had this happen before
2013 daytona R with 17300 miles. had the 12k service done last spring and it was ship shape.
had the 24k service on my 08 when i owned it and it was ship shape too... hmmmmm

its tricky. i just really wanted to have it fixed so i could track next weekend

will keep you all updated.

Best,
Mark

Last edited by Ditch Doctor; 04-21-17 at 18:13.
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post #7 of 17 Old 04-21-17, 01:09
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I'm a little late to the party but I'm wondering if it's possible you gotta bad tank of gas from somewhere. I can't remember which service interval requires new plugs but have you tried pulling your plugs and taking a look at them. Not sure if either one of those issues would cause what you're experiencing but I'm just throwing a couple ideas against the wall and seeing if anything sticks. I hope you get it sorted out quickly so you can make your trackday. Good luck to you Ditch and keep us posted.
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post #8 of 17 Old 04-21-17, 18:35
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I'll try to give my 2

First thing is start at the beginning. What I would do and I'm just spitting it out as I think of it while I am watching the news.
First thing is it sounds electrical not mechanical so start a list

1. Check for lose connection
A.). Start with the key plug and work your way through all bike connections. Pull the connection and look at them and add some die electric grease. It's cheap at auto supply store.
A1). Flashlight the pins on the connectors look for arc burns. If you see some burns use a pick and try to get the connection between the pins tighter. Don't go overboard little pressure goes a long way.
B.) look for pinched wires get a bright flashlight and really look good.

2. If everything there checks out check fuel lines and fuel pump. Could be pinched or clogged.
A.) fuel pump put 12volts to it and ground the other side and see if it pumps. Listening to the pump you'll hear if it's not sounding healthy. Be careful fuel will piss everywhere don't blow yourself up or blind yourself either.

3. If all that is looking good then you need to check voltage and resistance at your sensors that is more complicated because of differences in value.
I have a service manual if you need information on that but go easy first and hope it won't cone to that.

Start there and we can at least eliminate those out of the equation.
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post #9 of 17 Old 04-21-17, 19:12 Thread Starter
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clutch back together. Cable adjusted. bike turns on and runs smooth in neutral
all gears with no kinks, catches, or any of the described issues. again, that was just on stands, and not moving at 60-70mph, but the clutch feels fine. engages and disengages just fine

@ShaLaMae
I am going to start checking connections, make sure that the lines arnt kinked, and check my throttle cables.
I installed the motion pro last year with really great results. quick turn throttle, and have done several thousand miles no issues. just lately if i hammer up hard on the throttle, it will go..go..go... and then just bounce up like i flipped the throttle wide open... then it will catch up. Almost like a surge and then it works itself out... it has been so rare, and the ride it happened on, i just adjusted the cables and had no issues.

It was almost like the cable pulled all the way with only minimal input.

I just ran the bike at 6k rpm in Neutral... no issues.

Will follow up after going through the connections.

As far as bad fuel... what is a good solution? pump out the current fuel and put in new fuel? I have 1/2 a tank...

Best,
mark


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post #10 of 17 Old 04-21-17, 19:14 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc View Post
When my clutch has gone out it hasn't been jumpy. It slips when I add throttle and won't drive like it should.

I would ask the dealer to take a look before you replace the clutch.

If it is the clutch, you can replace just the friction plates if the steel plates are in good shape. The shop manual explains how to check them. You should inspect the clutch basket too. I've not had to replace my basket yet.

What year is your bike? If it is your clutch, I've got a spare set of plates for my 2011 that I could fedex to you or - in an emergency - bring to NCM for you.
what an awesome friend. Thank you so much for the offer. I think my current plates and clutch are good to go for the time being
It blows me away the support of this forum. The friends and brothers I have made here.
Heck, If i can stop by nashville on my way up or way back sunday, I will buy you dinner

That Others May Live
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