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Carbon Canister Removal 2013 D675

45K views 83 replies 24 participants last post by  easbaysav 
#1 ·
Has anyone removed the carbon canister from their 2013 D675?
What must be done to the hoses? Is it necessary to plug any one of them? Can they just be left in place?

On my previous Street Triple, I removed the canister and didn't plug any hoses.
Bike ran great.

My canister has two hoses on the right (throttle side) and one hose on the left side.

On the right side of the canister, the center spigot is marked T (tank?) and the top, offset spigot is marked P (purge?)

The left side spigot is unmarked and I assume this one is a vent.

Many thanks for your insight.
 
#3 ·
As it turns out, I removed the canister, left all the lines in place without plugging any of them. Bike runs perfect so far after 1200+ miles since removing the canister.
Loose 11 oz and gain a lil' under seat storage.
 
#4 ·
After poking through the workshop manual it seems the left line goes to atmosphere. Of the two on the right, one goes to the top of the tank and the other goes to the EVAP purge valve and then to the intake runners.

Leaving the line to the tank open to atmosphere is what we are used to on old cars and bikes. However the line to the engine should be plugged, preferably at the intake runners. Otherwise you will be sucking in unfiltered air whenever the ECU decides to open the purge valve.
 
#5 ·
After poking through the workshop manual it seems the left line goes to atmosphere. Of the two on the right, one goes to the top of the tank and the other goes to the EVAP purge valve and then to the intake runners.

Leaving the line to the tank open to atmosphere is what we are used to on old cars and bikes. However the line to the engine should be plugged, preferably at the intake runners. Otherwise you will be sucking in unfiltered air whenever the ECU decides to open the purge valve.
Yea, it's best to follow the vacuum line(s) all the way up to the throttle bodies and cap them off. If the line is still connected to the EVAP purge valve, it will create a big vacuum leak whenever it opens. If it's deleted upstream of the EVAP purge valve, it will definitely need to be capped off because it will create a vacuum leak 100% of the time.

Here's a picture of the throttle bodies and a diagram of the EVAP system. These are from earlier bikes, I'm not 100% sure if they are the same as the 13 model year.

This picture shows what the throttle bodies look like on a 675 without the EVAP system. Underneath each fuel injector bung, there are 2 vacuum ports.

The left vacuum port for each cylinder is tied together into a single hose. It's used for the front intake flapper and perhaps a few other things.

The right vacuum port on each cylinder is capped off from the factory. If there were an EVAP system connected, there would be another set of hoses that ties each cylinder together into a single line that runs down to the EVAP purge valve. (see figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5)

You can either cap off the main line after the EVAP purge valve or you can cap off each of the 3 ports directly on the throttle bodies.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Pulled up this thread last night and went about yanking it out this morning. Thanks Homer and Jamezracer for clarifying the lines. I plugged the purge valve line (indicated by a P on the canister), left the tank vent line open and removed the atmosphere vent line along with the can. Curious where you guys leave the tank vent line though?

Just to contribute to the information already here, the canister has markings on the side with the 2 lines. P and T, so you don't have to go lifting the tank if you don't want to bother removing the purge valve (like me).

The canister is held on by two hex bolts. To get to it, you have to remove the tail pan fairing.

So much more space!


underside of the can, where the hex bolts go
 
#7 ·
Just a heads up, you may have to unplug the purge valve. I had some funky idle issues even after capping off the purge valve line. I unplugged the valve, but left it in there so I could still cap the line. (cap was too small to cap off past the valve). So far after 15 minutes of idling, it seems to have fixed the issue. I'll know more when I test ride later today.
 
#9 ·
Yes sir! That is what I had, but even when warm. At times it sounded like it would nearly die. After a 50 mile test ride, I'm going to say unplugging the valve fixed it. It's not to hard to get too. It's under the tank, left hand side just under the air box. Mine had a zip tie around it, so I snipped it off and was able to pull the valve up and out and have plenty of room. The plug is held in place by a metal clip that pops up. I just popped the clip, unplugged it, placed the plug down inside the frame, as well as the disconnected valve. The valve hose I cut about 2 inches off the end under the seat and put an 1/8 inch rubber vacuum plug (Dorman part # 47389 at Oriley's) for a very tight fit. No CEL from unplugging the valve.

The right way to do it would be to plug at the throttle body, but it looked like one will have to remove a lot of stuff to get to them, so this will work for now.
 
#11 ·
Weird, i thought the carbon canisters was for the californian bikes only ?

Carbon Canister.

Triumph Daytona. UC, TW & HK
Stock Code T2403000 Manufacturer Triumph Motorcycles Categories Fuel System Assemblies Evaporative Loss Control System; Evaporative Loss Control System - California Only
 
#13 ·
yanked out the purge valve earlier. The valve was easy, hard part was trying to keep the tube from falling when trying to plug it. (no slack, about an inch to hold onto)

Left a ziptie on it incase I had to fish for it again, otherwise it's just sitting where it was. Slathered some dielectric grease on the plug and tied it up to the harness so it's not jiggling. Fixed the idle flux instantly, perfect. Sits steady at 1500 now (was fluttering between 1500-2k, remembered wrong)

 
#24 ·
Haven't really attacked the canister yet but just removing the "finishing" plastic on the bike. Saw this and was wondering if there is a hose that should plug into it? There's one on the other end! Thanks!

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Vehicle
 
#30 ·
Didn't think to try. Will do that tonight. I haven't heard back from them so I've just given up on it and not worried about it. Will get a Bazzaz when I go full system! LOL!
 
#32 ·
Knocked this out this morning. Fairly easy. Hardest part was taking the tail fairings off! It's like a madman's Tetris!!! Had a random vacuum cap laying around and just so happened to fit the tube coming from the TBs. She's sitting and idling, resetting adaptation now.

Question about the line come from the tank. I'm getting some liquid from it...smells like fuel so would make sense. It was mentioned before that this line is not capped. Are you guys seeing or smelling fuel from there?

Electrical wiring Cable Gas Wood Wire
Trunk Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Gas
 
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